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Find the thickness you need. Lets say you need a .015 thickness. Go to the fabric shop or Walmart. Buy a yard of cotton pillow ticking .015 thickness. You can then cut your own patches very cheap. Pick up a bottle of Hoppes BP Plus cleaner and patch lube to wet your patches. Precut lubed patches cost over 10 cents each. You can cut your cost with a much better patch.:)
 

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That would be yes. Lube makes it easier for the bullet to travel thru the barrel and softens black powder fouling of the bore.

And VERY good advice on the pillow ticking. Stick with cotton, no synthetics (melt)
 

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Gotsta have some lube for patches. Would you wanna go down a dry waterslide? :eek:


Traditions had a basic operations guide in their owner's manual at one time...
edit* This is the Traditions manual for sidelocks (cap & flint); it is pretty basic but lists loading instructions on the 18th or 19th page of the manual. http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/PercussionFlintlock_manual.pdf

Some may debate their load suggestions, but they are a good starting point, IMO.

I prefer to buy the ziploc bag of pre-lubed yellow patches, but my shooting volume is low.
 

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Make sure you use the correct thickness. It is most important that you use a patch to ball ratio that seals the bore when loaded. A common example would be a .50 Caliber rifle has a .500" bore. with a groove of .005" We would load a .490 ball with a .015" patch giving us a ball and seal diameter .505". In other words make sure you know bore size and select the proper patch and ball. When you fire the rifle if the patch catches fire smokes and burns you do not have a seal. The patch should not be burned after it is fired. A starting load for a .50 caliber rifle would be 1 grs. of powder per caliber= 50 grs. in a 50 caliber. Most Perc. rifles use a #11 cap.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Make sure you use the correct thickness. It is most important that you use a patch to ball ratio that seals the bore when loaded. A common example would be a .50 Caliber rifle has a .500" bore. with a groove of .005" We would load a .490 ball with a .015" patch giving us a ball and seal diameter .505". In other words make sure you know bore size and select the proper patch and ball. When you fire the rifle if the patch catches fire smokes and burns you do not have a seal. The patch should not be burned after it is fired. A starting load for a .50 caliber rifle would be 1 grs. of powder per caliber= 50 grs. in a 50 caliber. Most Perc. rifles use a #11 cap.:)
that helps out alot thanks! i have a .50 cal rifle
 

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Glad you like the side locks. I shoot many matches each year in a number of SW States. I shoot Flintlock only. This is one of four Flinters that I travel with. This is a custom .54 Flinter with a 44" Rice Radius cut rifleing and a Chambers lock. It is an East Tenn. Style made by Steve Zihn.:)
 

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Well years ago I paid $1,800 for that rifle and waited a year. This would most likely cost much more and the wait is now 3 years from craftsman. These are made for 100 yd. and 200 yds. match shooting. These are not wall hangers.
There are some less expensive flintlocks imported from India that would make wall hangers.
 

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Ha ha funny story on the equation u use to figure the load of powder u start with lol. I got a cva inline a few years back and had no clue what a magnum barrel was. Any way I started out with what u use in my traditions which is 70 gr of powder and I was shooting powder belts which are dang expensive. Anyway got it on the paper and it looked more like a shot gun pettern. To make a long story short I adjusted the scope a half dozen times broke it down and cleaned it a half dozen more and shot about three cards of those dang power belts before I broke out the book on the gun and seen i needed to start with 110 grs lol finally got great groups with 130 grs. Moral of the story no matter how much you know always read the directions.
 
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