Parkerizing?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by CA357, Aug 10, 2010.

  1. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Does anybody here do Parkerizing or know a place that does reasonably?
     
  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    What are you looking to get done? Have you considered doing it yourself? Depending on what it is, I may be willing to take some of your hard earned money.
     

  3. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    I know CCR has a parkerizing process that looks good in the pix. Been toying with sending them my no-name 1911 to get it done...
     
  4. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    I have sent a number of items to this place and Brian did an outstanding job of parkerizing for a very reasonable price. Not sure if he still does this type of work though. Send him an email or give him a call to discuss your needs. One heck of a nice guy to deal with IMO.

    BDL LTD Rifles and Accessories
     
  5. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    I'm thinking of having my M1917 parked or coated. I sent an email to Brad & Mary at CCR last night.

    After shooting with the Daggle and mrm14, I want to improve my old friend a bit. I'm also considering installing a Huber Concepts trigger and a Bell & Carlson stock.

    The M1917 is my keeper long distance rifle. An improved trigger will help me be a bit more accurate with it. The refinish and stock is just for ego. Although the stock may make a difference, I don't know. ;)

    I've got next to nothing invested in it and I think that I want to upgrade it a bit. As it is, it shoots more accurately than I do, but better is better.
     
  6. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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  7. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Got it and replied.
     
  8. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    Don, I have the B&C stock on one of my Sporterized 1917's and love it (for a scoped rifle). It has an odd drop but for scoped use it really helps keep it in line.

    Painted mine with "Coyote" Aluma Hyde2. The 30 minute refinishing job (plus 2 weeks of dry time). Ha.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Thanks for the heads up M14. I'm going to keep the Buehler mount and rings that are on it. I'm also going to keep the Nikon 3-9x40 scope.

    I ordered the black B&C stock from Midway. I'll probably send it to CCR for the Parkerizing Plus finish and have Brad install the Huber trigger while he's at it.

    I would use Cerama Coat and finish it myself to save some money, but the barreled receiver won't fit in the oven to bake.

    BTW, is Dura Coat a bake on finish or air dry? If it's air dry, I might do it myself to save some dough.
     
  10. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    No friendly pizza joints near you???
     
  11. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Duracoat is air dry. Prep is the key to a good job (and 2 weeks of cure time). Brownells had different colors available (more at the manf website). Don't be in a hurry. If there is a run, leave it and let it dry. after 2 weeks, then try to fix the run.
    What is nice about duracoat is that you can re-touch up later if needed.
     
  12. murraywc

    murraywc New Member

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    PARKERIZING BLACK-GREY CONCENTRATE COMBO NEW KIT GS - eBay (item 370416658913 end time Aug-11-10 20:08:41 PDT)
    I bought a kit like this one on ebay to do my 1903 springfield I had found that needed refinishing. First I soaked it overnight in a rust remover then sanded and wirebrushed to make it smoot, should have took more time on that part. I followed the directions and cleaned it good with the degreaser then parkerized.
    The problem was that I didn't have a stainless tank that I could fit a reciever and barrel and couldn't heat a plastic one. So I took a piece of 4 inch pipe and capped both ends and put a water heater element in the cap. It turned out really well i think. I tried it because I had absolutly nothing in the gun I found it in an abandoned house so I decided it was worth a try.
    The only thing I would do different is sand the pitting smoother if you notice on the 3rd and 4th pic but if you don't have pitting it shouldn't be a problem. Oil it very well when it is done. I used the grey because that is what came on the springfield but i got the black to use on a shotgun I was going to cut down but since I found one already done I think I will use it on a cheap hunting rifle because I think it looks cooler than bluing and hides better. good luck
     

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  13. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Thanks.

    .....
     
  14. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    The Aluma Hyde 2 is an aerosol, air dry. It is epoxy based and super easy to use. But like Dan said, prep is key. Brownells sells it, and it is about $10 a can.

    It will be dry to the touch in about a day. Cured to "ready to use" in about 2 weeks. And hard as armor in a few months.

    I've used it for years and have been 100% happy.
     
  15. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Okay, I may be willing to give one or the other a try. How tough is it to replace the trigger?
     
  16. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    On a 1917 a half blind, untrained monkey could replace the trigger.

    I like the durability of the USGI trigger, so just cleaned mine up a bit. It works just fine.
     
  17. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    A half blind, untrained monkey may be a good description of my skill level. ;)

    I may need your help for setting overtravel etc.

    Okay, I'm going to buy the trigger and install it myself. I'll pick up a Duracoat kit and give that a whack too. That should save me around a hundred bucks.
     
  18. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    Buying a can of Aluma Hyde 2 paint from Brownells will cost you about $10. Duracoat is great stuff, but do they have an aerosol?

    Let me know if you need help with any of it.
     
  19. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Yes, it comes in spray cans. "A whole lotta shakin" is required.
    I use TCE from Brownells as a cleaner (and they can ship with Duracoat). Follow the directions and there should not be a problem. Be careful on the outside temp.
    Have a well ventilated area for both.
    I spray a fine mist as initial coat (barely see the paint, but it is there), wait 10 mins, spray a heavier coat (and don't recoat any misses spots yet, you'll get the runs), wait 15 - 20 mins, then spray last and final coat, wait 15-20 mins, check for missed spots and lightly spray them, then wait 2 weeks. Trying to put it on in one coat will allow flaking later. And the can has a warning about waiting too long between coats.

    You can see runs on the slide (and where I tried to fix while wet) and all on a 1911 I was working on the the "DIY" forum.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  20. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    Cool, Dan. The Duracoat sounds almost exactly the same as the AH2. Same prep, same application, same cure, etc.