Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by CA357, Aug 10, 2010.
Does anybody here do Parkerizing or know a place that does reasonably?
What are you looking to get done? Have you considered doing it yourself? Depending on what it is, I may be willing to take some of your hard earned money.
I know CCR has a parkerizing process that looks good in the pix. Been toying with sending them my no-name 1911 to get it done...
I have sent a number of items to this place and Brian did an outstanding job of parkerizing for a very reasonable price. Not sure if he still does this type of work though. Send him an email or give him a call to discuss your needs. One heck of a nice guy to deal with IMO.
BDL LTD Rifles and Accessories
I'm thinking of having my M1917 parked or coated. I sent an email to Brad & Mary at CCR last night.
After shooting with the Daggle and mrm14, I want to improve my old friend a bit. I'm also considering installing a Huber Concepts trigger and a Bell & Carlson stock.
The M1917 is my keeper long distance rifle. An improved trigger will help me be a bit more accurate with it. The refinish and stock is just for ego. Although the stock may make a difference, I don't know.
I've got next to nothing invested in it and I think that I want to upgrade it a bit. As it is, it shoots more accurately than I do, but better is better.
PM sent CA.....
Got it and replied.
Don, I have the B&C stock on one of my Sporterized 1917's and love it (for a scoped rifle). It has an odd drop but for scoped use it really helps keep it in line.
Painted mine with "Coyote" Aluma Hyde2. The 30 minute refinishing job (plus 2 weeks of dry time). Ha.
Thanks for the heads up M14. I'm going to keep the Buehler mount and rings that are on it. I'm also going to keep the Nikon 3-9x40 scope.
I ordered the black B&C stock from Midway. I'll probably send it to CCR for the Parkerizing Plus finish and have Brad install the Huber trigger while he's at it.
I would use Cerama Coat and finish it myself to save some money, but the barreled receiver won't fit in the oven to bake.
BTW, is Dura Coat a bake on finish or air dry? If it's air dry, I might do it myself to save some dough.
No friendly pizza joints near you???
Duracoat is air dry. Prep is the key to a good job (and 2 weeks of cure time). Brownells had different colors available (more at the manf website). Don't be in a hurry. If there is a run, leave it and let it dry. after 2 weeks, then try to fix the run.
What is nice about duracoat is that you can re-touch up later if needed.
PARKERIZING BLACK-GREY CONCENTRATE COMBO NEW KIT GS - eBay (item 370416658913 end time Aug-11-10 20:08:41 PDT)
I bought a kit like this one on ebay to do my 1903 springfield I had found that needed refinishing. First I soaked it overnight in a rust remover then sanded and wirebrushed to make it smoot, should have took more time on that part. I followed the directions and cleaned it good with the degreaser then parkerized.
The problem was that I didn't have a stainless tank that I could fit a reciever and barrel and couldn't heat a plastic one. So I took a piece of 4 inch pipe and capped both ends and put a water heater element in the cap. It turned out really well i think. I tried it because I had absolutly nothing in the gun I found it in an abandoned house so I decided it was worth a try.
The only thing I would do different is sand the pitting smoother if you notice on the 3rd and 4th pic but if you don't have pitting it shouldn't be a problem. Oil it very well when it is done. I used the grey because that is what came on the springfield but i got the black to use on a shotgun I was going to cut down but since I found one already done I think I will use it on a cheap hunting rifle because I think it looks cooler than bluing and hides better. good luck
The Aluma Hyde 2 is an aerosol, air dry. It is epoxy based and super easy to use. But like Dan said, prep is key. Brownells sells it, and it is about $10 a can.
It will be dry to the touch in about a day. Cured to "ready to use" in about 2 weeks. And hard as armor in a few months.
I've used it for years and have been 100% happy.
Okay, I may be willing to give one or the other a try. How tough is it to replace the trigger?
On a 1917 a half blind, untrained monkey could replace the trigger.
I like the durability of the USGI trigger, so just cleaned mine up a bit. It works just fine.
A half blind, untrained monkey may be a good description of my skill level.
I may need your help for setting overtravel etc.
Okay, I'm going to buy the trigger and install it myself. I'll pick up a Duracoat kit and give that a whack too. That should save me around a hundred bucks.
Buying a can of Aluma Hyde 2 paint from Brownells will cost you about $10. Duracoat is great stuff, but do they have an aerosol?
Let me know if you need help with any of it.
Yes, it comes in spray cans. "A whole lotta shakin" is required.
I use TCE from Brownells as a cleaner (and they can ship with Duracoat). Follow the directions and there should not be a problem. Be careful on the outside temp.
Have a well ventilated area for both.
I spray a fine mist as initial coat (barely see the paint, but it is there), wait 10 mins, spray a heavier coat (and don't recoat any misses spots yet, you'll get the runs), wait 15 - 20 mins, then spray last and final coat, wait 15-20 mins, check for missed spots and lightly spray them, then wait 2 weeks. Trying to put it on in one coat will allow flaking later. And the can has a warning about waiting too long between coats.
You can see runs on the slide (and where I tried to fix while wet) and all on a 1911 I was working on the the "DIY" forum.
Cool, Dan. The Duracoat sounds almost exactly the same as the AH2. Same prep, same application, same cure, etc.