I was wondering, if I were to print paper targets, what type of paper should i use to print them? Would any regular old paper do just fine? Also, would scotch tape or double sided tape be enough to hold it up against a target? Should I tape it to a piece of cardboard and would a range allow that?
Paper Targets
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Hi pacman.
Printing your targets on regular paper should work just fine unless it's raining out, but I would skip on the tape. Take a stapler or some push pins to the range with you and use them to secure the target to the backboards, or staple a peice of cardboard to the backboard and use spray glue to hold the targets in place.
Also, you can get some really good targets pretty cheap at Law Enforcement Targets that will help with your training. Might check them out.
Take care and stay safe.
Christopher Moore
Point Blank, LLC
P.O. Box 31
Jackson, MO 63755
573-243-4867
www.pointblanktraining.net
Printing your targets on regular paper should work just fine unless it's raining out, but I would skip on the tape. Take a stapler or some push pins to the range with you and use them to secure the target to the backboards, or staple a peice of cardboard to the backboard and use spray glue to hold the targets in place.
Also, you can get some really good targets pretty cheap at Law Enforcement Targets that will help with your training. Might check them out.
Take care and stay safe.
Christopher Moore
Point Blank, LLC
P.O. Box 31
Jackson, MO 63755
573-243-4867
www.pointblanktraining.net
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42 Posts
Most ranges offer paper targets to you at a very nominal fee. As a matter of fact, I am not even sure they will permit you to "bring your own"!........
That's what I do. I keep small boxes on hand (read empty 12 packs and wine boxes), then spray them using a 4" circular stencil and some cheap light colored Walmart spray paint.
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I usually use gang members, pedophiles, rapists, insurgents, rabid gophers, etc..... Y'know, whatever happens to be lurking around in the shadows.
I find it's nice to have good "feedback" from the targets.
Seriously though, I like to use standard cheap targets. The cheaper the better. If I want to get fancy I'll get a package of silouettes every once in awhile.
I find it's nice to have good "feedback" from the targets.
Seriously though, I like to use standard cheap targets. The cheaper the better. If I want to get fancy I'll get a package of silouettes every once in awhile.
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13,934 Posts
Why would a range stop you from bringing your own targets?
I print mine on card stock so they hold up better in the wind and in the notebook after they are shot.
The ones I use are from 6mmbr.com
My target holder is 6 2' sections of 3/4" PVC 4 1' sections 4 3" sections 4 T fittings 6 90* elbows. and 4 end caps. I glue 3 2' section into a u shape then add the 4 2' section and 2 of the t fitting then 1 more 2' section on each t fitting. That gives you a 2' square that is 2' off the ground. Then I glue 2 of the 1' sections to each t fitting into the holes opposite each-other. Then I glue 4 of the elbows facing the opposite direction as the empty hole in the t fitting. glue the 3" sections into the elbows and glue the caps on. Now DO NOT Glue the feet to the upper target. That way everything lays flat and transports easy.
I then attach a chunk of foam board (Foam core with poaster board on each side) to the 2' square with bolts. This gives you an easy to replace target backer and one that you can use staples, push pins, or tape.
If you hit the PVC cut that section out and replace with a patch. Simple low cost and easy to take care of and repair.
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I print mine on card stock so they hold up better in the wind and in the notebook after they are shot.
The ones I use are from 6mmbr.com
My target holder is 6 2' sections of 3/4" PVC 4 1' sections 4 3" sections 4 T fittings 6 90* elbows. and 4 end caps. I glue 3 2' section into a u shape then add the 4 2' section and 2 of the t fitting then 1 more 2' section on each t fitting. That gives you a 2' square that is 2' off the ground. Then I glue 2 of the 1' sections to each t fitting into the holes opposite each-other. Then I glue 4 of the elbows facing the opposite direction as the empty hole in the t fitting. glue the 3" sections into the elbows and glue the caps on. Now DO NOT Glue the feet to the upper target. That way everything lays flat and transports easy.
I then attach a chunk of foam board (Foam core with poaster board on each side) to the 2' square with bolts. This gives you an easy to replace target backer and one that you can use staples, push pins, or tape.
If you hit the PVC cut that section out and replace with a patch. Simple low cost and easy to take care of and repair.
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2,399 Posts
Speaking of "feedback", I'm down to 1 arm for a couple of months, so hanging targets is a beeyotch. What I've been doing is taping one up to the frame and then using Shoot-N-C's over the center as I need. The 2" black dots also work well when placed on the throat and on the nose of the photo targets (Hostage, Osama, etc....). At 15 yards and out you know when you hit what you were aiming at.I usually use gang members, pedophiles, rapists, insurgents, rabid gophers, etc..... Y'know, whatever happens to be lurking around in the shadows.
I find it's nice to have good "feedback" from the targets.
Seriously though, I like to use standard cheap targets. The cheaper the better. If I want to get fancy I'll get a package of silouettes every once in awhile.
Joined
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14 Posts
Card stock is definitely the way to go. A ream of 500 sheets is like $6, so the most expensive part is the ink. Works great.
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13,934 Posts
Not for me anymore. I am going to start printing them at work with my big fancy Ricoh C420DN COLOR LASER Printer. That thing prints so nice. and the tonre is free LOL well it comes out of my budget. But for $600
I can print 20,000 sheets in full color. 
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