Painting an Ar

Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by Schmeekey, Aug 4, 2011.

  1. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    So when I have enough money to build/buy an Ar I want to paint it. It needs to be cheap so Krylon seems like the best choice. In numerous photos it looks like they pretty much closed the dust cover and spayed away. I am concerned that it would bind moving parts such as the charging handle, safety, trigger, etc... Is this the case? Anybody with any sort of experience please chime in, It would help me out a lot.
     
  2. Atrawick

    Atrawick New Member

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    Look into Duracoat.
     

  3. soldierman79

    soldierman79 New Member

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    Attached Files:

  4. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    Parts won't bind and Krylon is a great product for doing things like this.

    They link above is a great one. The pine needles turned out good. I like when guys use a net also. Here are some more ideas.
    Painted AR's - show 'em off! - M4Carbine.net Forums
     
  5. Wambli

    Wambli Member

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    For just a couple of dollars more than Krylon you can get Brownells Alumahyde. The stuff is tougher than woodpecker lips and resistant to solvents etc since it is actually made for firearms. Here are a couple of Alumahyde projects.

    Stock
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    Stock and metal
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    Stock and metal
    [​IMG]

    Stock
    [​IMG]
     
  6. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    Those look really nice.

    I used Alumahyde II on a Kimber, G17, and AR w/ good results. The flat black was good but the Dark Earth and Foliage were a little shiny.
     
  7. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    This was actually the first thing that I looked into. But... it is incredibly time consuming, and I kind of prefer the look of a krylon painted gun.
     
  8. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    So I can just spray it with no disassembly? Would it be okay to split the upper and lower (obviously removing the BCG) or do you not want paint inside the action.
     
  9. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    I removed the rail, magpul stuff and optics. I'll get a pic in the morning. I couldn't figure how to copy and paste on this dang iPad. Our electric went out and the house got up to 90 so we went to mu moms.
     
  10. diggsbakes

    diggsbakes New Member

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    Duracoat isn't as bad as it sounds. I've used a few times on various parts and one AK. The AK came out great! An old grill can be used to speed up the curing. No oven needed. Just set it to super low for a few hours and you don't have to stink up the house and piss off the wife.

    Krylon is great in their "High Temp" formula, but I'd only rate their outdoor "Camo" line as GREAT in terms of application and appearance, but OK (at best) for durability. I've experimented w/ a "High Temp" base and clear-coat and it does a little better.
     
  11. diggsbakes

    diggsbakes New Member

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    Take as much off as possible. Gummy stuff, future chems and smooth cycling usually doesn't add up. Hell, its an AR, it only takes 15min to completely break down. . . I guess if you are really lazy you could stuff newspaper in the lower and top it w/ masking tape.
     
  12. mjkeat

    mjkeat New Member

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    I sprayed mine w/ lower and upper together. No "Gummy" stuff to speak of and the rifle has functioned flawlessly like it did before the paint.

    The thing is if you want a camo pattern you have to leave it assembled or your pattern wont match.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. sublime42283

    sublime42283 New Member

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    I sprayed mine the same as MJKEAT with upper and lower together, but I pretty much took everything off the rifle that bolted on and covered my gas tube and barrel that would be located under my hand guard cause that area gets real hot when putting rounds down range and I am not sure as to how much heat the Krylon Camouflage paint will withstand in a covered area.
     

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  14. diggsbakes

    diggsbakes New Member

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    Damn fine job you did there Sublime. The only problems I've had with the Krylon were probably my fault. I use Carb/Brake cleaner after a my initial scrubbing and while in a hurry, let a drip flow down the outside of the ejection port. It ate the Krylon like nothing.

    Mj, yeah sure you have to get your pattern, but there's plastic and rubber (D-fenders, what have you) in the guts, so for any sort of Bake-on you gut the gun.
     
  15. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    I like the idea of krylon because if I don't like it or want to change it in the future, I only lost a couple bucks in the deal. Dura-coat, although longer lasting and nicer looking, is way more expensive.
     
  16. sublime42283

    sublime42283 New Member

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    It took me about two hours or so to break down paint and reassemble. I didn't want to drag it out cause the old lady was yelling about the paint smell.
     
  17. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    Thanks, and very nice rifle. I am officially jealous:p
     
  18. Schmeekey

    Schmeekey New Member

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    I really like the brown and tan combo sublime. Thanks for your post :)
     
  19. sublime42283

    sublime42283 New Member

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    schmeekey I took a piece of card board off, you know, a beer case...lol...and cut one design in it and just used it one way for green and turned it ninety degrees when I sprayed the brown. Also I just held it up next to the rifle I didn't tape it down or anything, doesn't make the edges too sharp and after all that I help the khaki pretty far away about two and a half feet maybe further and misted to help the edges fade even more.
     
  20. Quentin

    Quentin New Member

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    Nice work guys! And thanks for the tips. I think about this from time to time ... but so far my black rifles are still black! :p