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Discussion in 'General Rifle Discussion' started by dteed4094, Aug 13, 2010.
high gloss or matt finnish
I'd put an after market plastic stock on it and not worry about the finish on the wood stock. With me, the first scratch I put in any new wood stock really pisses me off.
As for as finish, only you can decide what you like.
I'm sorry it's disappointing. A new rifle should not be a disappointment in any way. It's your rifle, do whatever will make you happy with it.
You can probably remove the old finish with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol.
Try to get it down to the bare wood. If it is walnut no stain will be necessary but if another wood some light stain may be desired.
I handrubbed two of my M1A stocks and a couple of M1 Garand stocks with Birchwood Caseys Truoil. It makes for a beautiful piece of wood on a rifle. Some finishers like Tung Oil.
You will just continue to rub the Truoil into the stock until you get the finish you desire. It really brings out the nice grain in good walnut.
I know its my choice, and its not a disappointment as far as the gun goes but I expected a lot more from Ruger. I asked for opinions! I know how to finish as I have made several stocks from TREES. I have refinished Many stocks for many people. I just asked for opinions. I will probably wipe the stock down with a petrolieum based cleaner and apply 10 or 15 coats of tung oil and let the wood decide. Thanks for all the expert advice. Sorry I asked for advice from those who have no opinion. It's a 243, I have a beautiful Remy 700 243 that shoots less than .325 MOA. I just wanted to justify owning another 243 that will probably will not shoot any better or ever look as nice as the Remy. My second option is to trade it for another caliber, Maybe a 223. As a general rule, Most of my low budget rifles can be improved. Thats what I do. I don't sell my guns and am never completely satisfied with them. I like wood or Plastic but if it gets a scratch, Its from use so I live with it or I fix it. I love shooting but that is only part of my love of guns. Although my knowledge is somewhat limited, I like to fix what I can. I am not a gunsmith by any stretch of the meaning but I can fix or make just about anything. Gunsmithing is not only a skill but a vast knowledge. I have most of the skill and a small amount of the knowledge. I ONLY ASKED FOR OPINIONS. I appreciate the advice on how to finish but a non commital its your gun is almost as good as a plastic stock.
Well, just pardon me all to hell!! I guess I misread your intent. Please excuse my ignorance.
I say trade it. You're not happy with it, spending a lot of time will make you less unhappy with it but somewhat resentful that you had to spend the time on it. So trade it for something you like.
I personally think a semi-gloss stock is best. It brings out the grain/figure but is not glaring. That's the way I finish most of my stocks. But then that's just my opinion.
Thanks Bear. Thats what I was asking for, your opinion. I value your opinion as you seem to know more about what you are talking about than most. Ill probably do a tung oil finish and Quit rubbing somewhere between semi and high gloss. Some people don't understand the enjoyment one can get out of working on a stock. The beauty is in the wood, you just make it come out. I'm thinking of doing some sort of functional sculpting to the forestock to make a rather blah rifle into something that is more appealing to the eye,
I like the look of a dark-stained linseed oil finish, such as found on many older rifles. I have found basic hardware store boiled linseed oil to work very well for a stained bare stock. I'm not much for high gloss finishes.
I'll toss in my opinion, I was lost since you deleted part of your 1st post. I am a huge fan of Boiled Linseed oil. Usually 7 coats does it, but you can stop when you get the color and grain clarity you like. If the wood lightens over a short time, just give her another coat. I wait 4 hours between each of the 1st 4 coats and wipe it down well before applying a new coat. 24 hours w/ every coat after that. I buff it with a flannel clothe to finish it and it makes it shine, not glare. There is also a wax that was used by the Germans to finish their K98's. I can call my contact in Austria about some. JP
Are you using real Tung Oil? That stuff is very nice but takes forever to dry!!!
For maple (and other light colored wood), I like using BLO to warm it up. Darker woods (or anything I do not want to yellow) I use Minwax Tung oil (not really Tung oil).
FYI, I used to do a lot of woodturning and these are some of my favorite oil finishes (as well as Danish oil...which is just mainly a diluted mix of BLO and Tung oil).
I am with you with on the pleasure of bringing the best out of the wood. Planning on doing some rifle stock myself but afraid of committing to another hobby which usually ends costing me a lot of money.
I did a nice walnut stain and then 10 coats of lacqure sealer then 20+ coats of Clear semi-gloss lacquer on my last stock. It looks so sweet.
I still say plastic, even if it does hurt your feelings.
Geez. I apologize for encouraging you to do whatever makes you happy. Pardon me all to Hell.
How much thickness did all those coats of lacquer add to the stock? About 4"?
I have a Mossberg 500 that someone lacquered w/ multiple coats. Never had a single water spot or and change in the wood, even though this is a water fowl gun primarily. Sure does protect well! This gun gets wet often.
Edit: all the internal parts are parkerized. Here is a pic.
not a lot really. Lacquer goes on in thin coats. It does look like it is 2" deep though. Came out looking great for a not so great stock.
I am going to try and redo a Remington 513 T black walnut stock.
Flat finish , hand rubbed oil. I LIKE IT!
( then there is satin and high gloss too )
have to give the other finishes equal time.
Just giving my opinion