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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cimarron, 1872 Opentop, 44 Special Caliber, Brand new in box and as provided by Cimarrons finest hand picked for the best quality and your perfect value.......yeah...okay.....

First impressions are not the gooey yumyum feeling touted about. If this is a typical example, the fitting of a feature related to accuracy and longevity is sub par. The Model Ps are very much better from the same company.

As boxed it'd be OK as an occasional plinker. But it'll need a bit of final fitting, stuff that should be done at the factory, to be ready for daily work over the long term.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, on the externals.....broken wedge screw. Lost its head on the first turn.

Arbor burrs had locked bbl to frame. Hammered in a wood wedge to force them apart

Short arbor, expected and easily fixed.

Hammer dosnt fall, bolt won't rise and trigger won't return if backstrap screws are snugged down.

Other than that .... it's pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 1, finish the factory fitting of the grip strap. Clearance the hammer slot so the damn thing can fall and consequently cure all the noted action failures.

Step 2 shorten and install a Wolff mainspring for the 1873 Model P. Now the gun won't beat itself to death and shaved the pull from 4.25 lbs to 3 lbs all before any internal smoothing.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fiocchi 247g lrn 44 russian shoots on at 7 yds with front sight buried, same as precision one 44 special 200g fmj.

A good sign. It's at least accurate. But sights are abysmal.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
End shake is near zero with cylinder gap variable from .006" to bound cylinder depending on wedge position. Lengthening the arbor will cure the barrel pinching the cylinder.

A junk box screw with a nice thick and sturdy head was modified and pressed into service to retain the wedge.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Arbor and barrel lapped to a perfect fit now with some nonembeding 250 grit lapping paste from brownells.

No more beating it apart with a hammer and wood wedge.

Rear sight opened to a point of possible utility.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Opened it up, cleaned it out. Not bad for dirt, very nice for internal finish and up to the good standards I'm used to seeing from Uberti.

The cylinder hand bound against the arbor, it was just a touch too thick. A few swipes with an india stone on the inside top edge of the hand pretty much eliminated the bind.

The cylinder bolt was peaning the trailing edge of the cylinder notches. A check indicated though the bolt trailing edge was fitted, it was not fitted enough for the bolt head to fully enter the cylinder slots. A few swipes with an india stone on the trailing edge of the cylinder bolt head and it then fully dropped into each and every notch.

The leg of the cylinder bolt that rides the hammer cam had been beveled along its angled edge but not the top edge which must slip up and over the hammer cam. A few swipes with an india stone rounded over the top leading edge of the leg and the movement became quite a bit smoother.

A Wolff wire bolt and trigger spring for the 1873 Model P Colt/Clones was checked and installed.

No other action work was accomplished. Hammer notches and sear face are untouched. Internals were dry lubed with EEZOX and points/pivots that rotate or slide were given a touch of RIG.

With no serious metal removal, the 4+ pound slightly gritty trigger pull is now smooth and crisp 2 lbs 4 oz.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The arbor is short, or the arbor hole is too deep. Either by design or by luck the difference is less than .001" more than the thickness of a Fillister Head screw from brownells. The situation allows the barrel to cam upward both chaning the point of impact and the barrel cylinder gap. The barrel can be cammed up enough to bind the cylinder.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, the arbor face is spotted center and a #31 hole drilled through and then tapped in preparation for giving the gun three points of contact. (point one is the foot of the barrel, point two is the wedge to barrel/arbor interface and point three will be arbor face to arbor hole bottom)

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now the barrel and frame meet perfectly. No matter how hard the wedge is pounded in, the barrel cylinder gap is maintained at a perfect .006". With this modification, the gun will be the same gun, printing and shooting the same every time it is reassembled. Only way to get it better is to purchase a full frame revolver!

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chopped to a true 4 in.....installed try bead temp front sight and now have to try my idea to mod the ejector back to 3/8 or so shorter than the bbl.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Aged the brass. All that is needed for that is a quick wipe or two with Birchwood Casey Blue or Super Blue, stop the action with water, oil, let it set 24 hours to firm up.

Also knocked the sporting house gloss off the grip wood with a brillo pad then buffed it back up to a satin gloss with fff compound. More than for looks, this takes out the spray bumps and slicks the grip up a bit. If it was better wood, not just stained birch, I'd take all the finish off and force in urethane buffed back to the surface of the wood and final topped with wax. But its just run of the mil wood.....so....

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thumbs....musta been smaller back in the day. The gate is the devil to open with normal size thumbs so, a bit of clearance for easier operation.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tiny hole drilled.... .078 in dia. This will be to accomodate a Taurus coiled hand spring and plunger. Ruger parts are larger diameter, and for this project, not on hand. Don't drill directly over the grip screw, that just goes forward into the solid left side wall. Measure and find half the thickness of the hand from the side of the hammer.....measure in from the hammer slot in the frame, mark it. Measure half way from the top of the screw hole to the outside left upper grip bolster....mark it.

Center punch and start through the case with a 1/16" drill. Once through I switched to 5/64" drill to finish. Don't free hand the hole. Drill press, clamped and level in two directions is the only way to go. Don't forget to polish out any burrs raised in the hand way.

Finally, reverse the drill in the chuck, and at slow rpm with some non embedding lapping compound, polish out the new hole so the spring won't drag. Clean it out with a swarf of your favorite clean up sauce.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Carefully remove the flat and somewhat failure prone hand spring. You could just break it off but you'd be a Monkey-Pig instead of a Gunsmith.

If for some odd reason you decide to reconvert, plug the hole and restake the old spring. Or use the spring to repair one for those fellas that don't like any new fangled stuff, like coil springs.

If the back of the hand is rough, smooth it out. This one is nicely finished, no need to do more then get it clean and ready for re-installation.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The new/used Taurus 80 hand spring and plunger is installed, way too long but fully assemble the gun and very gently see if it'll come to full cock. If the assembly is too long, it'll bind before the sear slips into the full cock notch. Disassemble and clip a coil at a time until it'll fully cock. If you like, clip another coil after that just to ensure that later dirt won't cause the spring and plunger to bind up.

Alternately, if the spring is short but the plunger long, shorten and round over the nose of the plunger instead.

Once it reliably cocks, cycle the action many times safely pointing it up, down and level when doing so. (snap caps are a good idea here, and don't dry fire without snap caps....or any gun with a nose mounted firing pin for that matter)

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
All the factory forgots and/or niggling deficiencies that can be worked out at home with hand tools are addressed. This is now much more than an occasional range toy. Its fitted for reliability and durability. Time to make a holster and then get out and slay those flimsy cardboard invaders.

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