Nitre Bluing!

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by TINCANBANDIT, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. TINCANBANDIT

    TINCANBANDIT Member

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    Those of you that have followed my posts on this forum or on my blog are aware that I have been experimenting with different types of bluing. One that I wanted to get a handle on is nitre bluing. Nitre bluing produces a peacock or electric blue color and is a nice contrast against a high polished black bluing job

    This is what I am talking about

    [​IMG]


    well I messed around with some different formulas and was able to get this:


    [​IMG]
     
  2. BillDeShivs

    BillDeShivs Member

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    Looks great! Did you know you can easily get the same effect on small parts with heat?
     

  3. Que

    Que Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I'm interested in your process if you'd tell us.
     
  4. BillDeShivs

    BillDeShivs Member

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    Sure! Basically, all you do is heat carbon steel until it turns the color you want. You must stop heating at exactly the right time. Look up color charts for heat treating steel. I use a torch, but any source of heat will work. If you screw up, just sand it off and redo.
    Practice on scrap steel first.
    This process doesn't work on stainless.
     
  5. Que

    Que Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    hey Bill thanks for the info. really I was wanting TinCan to post up his method if he would. sorry for the confusion from me.
     
  6. TINCANBANDIT

    TINCANBANDIT Member

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    Here is the heat bluing process, it is harder than it looks, you have to remove it from the heat at just the right time

    http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2014/06/heat-bluing.html

    The Nitre Blueing process involves the use of Potassium Nitrate (2 parts) Sodium Nitrate (1/2 part) and a pinch of Manganese Dioxide. Heated to roughly 590 degrees, you soak the parts for a few minutes and then quench in water
     
  7. Que

    Que Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    thanks for the info TinCan
     
  8. TheOldMan

    TheOldMan New Member

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    Brownells sells the Nitre bluing salts and you can use a lead casting pot to heat them to the melting point. I use a Lee Pro casting furnace. Initial investment around $120 and you can do all kinds of small parts or basically anything that will fit in the pot.
     
  9. MrCarson

    MrCarson New Member

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    I use a torch & it looks awesome + safe! After its the color you want put it in oil quickly. Its does not protect from rust as well as bluing it would but looks good. You need to use wax after you done too. This works great (Micro Crystalline) Screws are ok but pins.. good luck getting them back in without messing them up. On a torched colored receiver (or hard cased) it looks amazing! play around with it if you end up not liking it re polish it & try again (or just blue it) Have fun
    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...o-crystalline-wax-cleaner-polish-prod236.aspx
     
  10. TINCANBANDIT

    TINCANBANDIT Member

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  11. tinbucket

    tinbucket Well-Known Member

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    Like the work. I haven't really fooled with my guns for many years. Got the Stainless Vaquero out and fired for the first time a couple months ago. Bought it about 96-97. After reading you blog and looking at the ejector i looked at mine it is the old button type too. I like the Rosewood but also the Mother of Pearl. New rig will be reddish tone and was thinking of Ivory grips but those Mother of Pearl look might pretty.
    Thanks for posting
     
  12. tinbucket

    tinbucket Well-Known Member

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    Sorry. The first sentence didn't appear when I reread my post.
    The nitre bluing looks great.