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Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by ktmboyz, May 15, 2011.
Anyone have good or bad experience reloading nickel plated cases good or bad ??
With 380, 9mm and 45acp, I have had no problems with the nickel cases. They work just like the brass.
I load 40S&W and 45acp all the time.
I have had no problems with nickel plated cases reloading them
Most reloading die companies recommend carbide dies for nickel cases.
Only thing I've heard is they may not last as long as the straight brass cases i.e. they tend to crack faster..
And the fella above is correct on the carbide dies ..
Most die manufacturers recommend not using nickle cases.
In my experience, they crack sooner then brass cases and the nickel starts to flake off after about 5 loadings and will embed in the carbide and put racing stripes on your cases.
Their sole purpose in life was to be placed in cartridge loops on a gun belt to prevent the brass case and tanning compounds from discoloring the leather and etching the case.
Beyond that, some people just like "shiny."
I have used nickel plated cases for 30+ years. No problems other than a somewhat reduced life. They are harder and thus a bit more brittle than brass (theoretically). WTS, I have a bunch of nickel plated .38 Special cases that have been loaded countless times. The nickel has worn thin and the underlying brass is showing through, but no cracks. In .38 Special there seems to be no real coorelation between case life and plating. As many non plated cases develop cracks as do the plated ones.
I would rather have brass than nickel. Yes, I do have some nickel rounds in .38 that the nickel has worn through and they are still great. More often they split and I've had two head separations which can be a royal pain in a gun trying to get it out. I make reduced loads, so it is not a pressure thing. Rifle and pistol chambers can vary and that along with belling the mouths will give me splits more often with nickel.
I prefer brass for plinking loads and hang on to the nickel for my hunting loads to help with greater climate change and being in the weather. As to reloading them I have seen no difference other then brass seems to slide in and out of the dies a bit easier but brass tends to have some natural lubricity to it.
I have not had any problms with .357 nickle cases in my dillon reloader, using carbide dies. I did have a very bad experience iwth brass cases in my S&W 686. I had cleaned the gun, reloaded it and put it back in the safe. A week later when I got it out I went to jack out the cartridges to make sure they were self defense loads and they wouldn't budge! I had to get a wooden mallet and rap on the extractor rod to break them loose. Evidently I did not get the chambers dry enough and the solvent created a load of vertigris in only 5 days. No damage to the cylinder luckily. I will Never leave it loaded with brass cases again.
I like to use nickle plated brass in my S&W mod.52 this is a strictly bullseye gun and the light loads that I use seem to feed just a bit slicker.
I have reloaded both and have not seen a lot of difference in the two. They do clean faster in the tumbler and IMHO they are easier to inspect for defects.
They also seem harder on my dies but can not see any real difference.
The only ones I have reloaded were some for a fast draw rig. Mostly for the showie-ness of the rounds in the gun belt. Nickel rounds looked very nice in a black rig. I had 50 rounds of nickel.
Shot-wise, I just stuck with brass mostly.
Though, I can't recall any problems or irregularities with reloading them. But then, I have carbide pistol dies for that.
Carbide just made more sense when getting the dies.