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First the setup: Ruger ranch 7.62x 39, Stainless 583 series, plastic stock, scope ( I can't see irons very well at 66) Bushy 3200 3-10X40 compact. Because it was on my scope shelf needing a home.

Hand loads I have used so far have been with N130 and Data 2230-c ( AA 2460 equivalent) Hornady 125 SP.

Used the Shilen break in procedure when new 5 years ago to break in and get a 100 yard zero 2"-3" groups, and then the rifle became a safe queen. I, had, to me more interesting rifles to play with. Any way this rifle has become one of my winter projects. When I first got the rifle I mounted a Millet red dot cause I did know what I was going to use the rifle for., and the Millet was on my scope shelf.

Last week mounted the Bushy scope and set out to get an accurate load. Both powders show promise. Thing is I get 4-6 round out of 10 to shoot into a nice 1" cluster and the others will be all over a 8X10 target. Never know where the shot is going #1 will be in the diamond #2 .5^ 1> #3 1^ 1<, #4 will touch on of the above #5 will go off some where else. so on....
Known scope performed .5MOA on the AR when I took it off couple years ago.
Scope monut and bases are tight no wiggle every thing tourqued down good n tight.

First thing I have done is a Arky65 trigger polish. This took the gritty out of the trigger and now have a nice clean break.
Do not have a trigger gauge guessing around 3.5 Lbs.
Having searched here and else where thinking of doing the gas block bedding as the first mod.
Second mod is different gas bushing but have no idea where to get the bushings or what size.

What say the internet GURUS?

Thanks
 

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It has been a while since I have been here on this forum. I ran across this post. Two inch groups at one hundred yards is good grouping with that rifle IMO. I have a 582 Mini 30 and that is about the average for my rifle with most ammo. My eyes are about shot so I have tried a few different optic setups, The first optic I put on it was also a Millet red dot. It worked pretty good out to about 60 yards. I removed the red dot and mounted a a Weaver 4x scope on it. That worked well out to a hundred yards. Like you I was getting two to three inch groups before my vision started going down hill.

I am left eye dominant and right handed. My brain decided that for me when I lost the sight in my right eye. That made it hard for me to shoot with iron sights on long guns. I removed the Weaver and installed a Holosun 510 reflex red dot. It sets pretty high on the rail so that made sighting easier but I still did not have a good cheek weld when shooting. Finally I put the Holosun 510 on an forty five degree offset rail on the left side of the rifle and that did the trick for me.

When I first got the Mini 30 I put a strut on the barrel and changed out the front sight with a flashider sight combo. I also sent it off to Great Western Gunsmithing and had the trigger done and a backup firing pin fitted. In hind sight it was fine right from the factory. I thought about getting it bedded and a few of the other so called upgrades but I felt it was not going to get much better than two inch groups at one hundred yards no matter what else I did so I left it alone after the trigger work. IMO the Mini 30 I is not a tack driver but it serves me well for my needs. I use it for deer and hog hunting.

The woods where I hunt are thick with underbrush. Most shots are within thirty yards rarely out to fifty. I have over a thousand rounds of all kinds of ammo through it. I get a hiccup now and then when plinking with cheap ammo. With Good ammo I have had no issues. Most people seem to love or hate the Mini 30 with not a lot of middle ground. I love shooting hunting and plinking with mine. Happy Trails.
 

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It has been a while since I have been here on this forum. I ran across this post. Two inch groups at one hundred yards is good grouping with that rifle IMO. I have a 582 Mini 30 and that is about the average for my rifle with most ammo. My eyes are about shot so I have tried a few different optic setups, The first optic I put on it was also a Millet red dot. It worked pretty good out to about 60 yards. I removed the red dot and mounted a a Weaver 4x scope on it. That worked well out to a hundred yards. Like you I was getting two to three inch groups before my vision started going down hill.

I am left eye dominant and right handed. My brain decided that for me when I lost the sight in my right eye. That made it hard for me to shoot with iron sights on long guns. I removed the Weaver and installed a Holosun 510 reflex red dot. It sets pretty high on the rail so that made sighting easier but I still did not have a good cheek weld when shooting. Finally I put the Holosun 510 on an forty five degree offset rail on the left side of the rifle and that did the trick for me.

When I first got the Mini 30 I put a strut on the barrel and changed out the front sight with a flashider sight combo. I also sent it off to Great Western Gunsmithing and had the trigger done and a backup firing pin fitted. In hind sight it was fine right from the factory. I thought about getting it bedded and a few of the other so called upgrades but I felt it was not going to get much better than two inch groups at one hundred yards no matter what else I did so I left it alone after the trigger work. IMO the Mini 30 I is not a tack driver but it serves me well for my needs. I use it for deer and hog hunting.

The woods where I hunt are thick with underbrush. Most shots are within thirty yards rarely out to fifty. I have over a thousand rounds of all kinds of ammo through it. I get a hiccup now and then when plinking with cheap ammo. With Good ammo I have had no issues. Most people seem to love or hate the Mini 30 with not a lot of middle ground. I love shooting hunting and plinking with mine. Happy Trails.
I have a Mini-14 bought new in 1980 and it's one of my favorite guns. Contrary to popular belief by people that don't own one, it's very accurate. My trigger is very good from the factory IMO. Mine is stock and will stay that way. Doesn't need anything done to it.
 

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I have a Mini-14 bought new in 1980 and it's one of my favorite guns. Contrary to popular belief by people that don't own one, it's very accurate. My trigger is very good from the factory IMO. Mine is stock and will stay that way. Doesn't need anything done to it.
My trigger was pretty good from the factory. I had the work done to it to get a more pronounced two stage out of it and just a bit lighter in pull. The strut was to help with accuracy but in hind sight I really don't think it was needed. The 582 has a thicker barrel than the previous series.
 

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My trigger was pretty good from the factory. I had the work done to it to get a more pronounced two stage out of it and just a bit lighter in pull. The strut was to help with accuracy but in hind sight I really don't think it was needed. The 582 has a thicker barrel than the previous series.
I've never had a trigger worked on. I just adapt to them....successfully. Even a Gamo air rifle which has a poor trigger.
 

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I have a Mini-14 bought new in 1980 and it's one of my favorite guns. Contrary to popular belief by people that don't own one, it's very accurate. My trigger is very good from the factory IMO. Mine is stock and will stay that way. Doesn't need anything done to it.
That’s about 5 yrs older then mine. Dont know why I like it so much,I guess 10 yrs as a bull pup made me appreciate real wood.
Air gun Wood Trigger Shotgun Gun barrel
 

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Interesting to see how the Mini-14 modifications have worked for others. Mine's one of the first when they came out (.223). Cold barrel - shoots well. As the barrel heats up, the target looks like Annie Oakley's starting to draw a picture of an Indian Chief - walks in a line about an inch apart at 50 yards. Pencil barrel. Do those struts really help?
 

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Interesting to see how the Mini-14 modifications have worked for others. Mine's one of the first when they came out (.223). Cold barrel - shoots well. As the barrel heats up, the target looks like Annie Oakley's starting to draw a picture of an Indian Chief - walks in a line about an inch apart at 50 yards. Pencil barrel. Do those struts really help?
Don't know. I was talking to Ruger last week and mine, bought new by me in 1980, was made in 1977. It has the same barrel, it's been very hot just once (I don't do stupid things like mag. dump), and it just doesn't suffer accuracy issues. Maybe it's just lucky, maybe not. I do know it's a beautiful Garand.
 

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First the setup: Ruger ranch 7.62x 39, Stainless 583 series, plastic stock, scope ( I can't see irons very well at 66) Bushy 3200 3-10X40 compact. Because it was on my scope shelf needing a home.

Hand loads I have used so far have been with N130 and Data 2230-c ( AA 2460 equivalent) Hornady 125 SP.

Used the Shilen break in procedure when new 5 years ago to break in and get a 100 yard zero 2"-3" groups, and then the rifle became a safe queen. I, had, to me more interesting rifles to play with. Any way this rifle has become one of my winter projects. When I first got the rifle I mounted a Millet red dot cause I did know what I was going to use the rifle for., and the Millet was on my scope shelf.

Last week mounted the Bushy scope and set out to get an accurate load. Both powders show promise. Thing is I get 4-6 round out of 10 to shoot into a nice 1" cluster and the others will be all over a 8X10 target. Never know where the shot is going #1 will be in the diamond #2 .5^ 1> #3 1^ 1<, #4 will touch on of the above #5 will go off some where else. so on....
Known scope performed .5MOA on the AR when I took it off couple years ago.
Scope monut and bases are tight no wiggle every thing tourqued down good n tight.

First thing I have done is a Arky65 trigger polish. This took the gritty out of the trigger and now have a nice clean break.
Do not have a trigger gauge guessing around 3.5 Lbs.
Having searched here and else where thinking of doing the gas block bedding as the first mod.
Second mod is different gas bushing but have no idea where to get the bushings or what size.

What say the internet GURUS?

Thanks
The mini's are famous for groups that open up quite a bit after the barrel warms up. This seems to be more pronounced with the stainless barrels. Accustruts seem to help. And I hear the ultimak and Amega rails do also ( they act as heat sinks ). Best wishes.
 
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