New 686plus or old 66-4?

Discussion in 'Revolver Handguns' started by LeadSlanger, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. LeadSlanger

    LeadSlanger New Member

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    I have an opportunity to buy a new 686+ for a few dollars more than a model 66-4 in excellent condition. Which would you rather have and why?
     
  2. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    The 66. The new S&W's use too many MIM (Metal Injection Molded) parts. That means cast metal. The older ones used forged parts. I just do not trust the MIM stuff. Plus the 686 probably has the annoying "Lock" above te cylinder release.
     

  3. Olympus

    Olympus New Member

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    I'd much rather have the older classic 66 than a newer 686 plus.
     
  4. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    How are aftermarket accessories for the 686-Plus?

    I mean speed loaders and such.
     
  5. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    OLD 66----;)
    As said- MIM parts :(
     
  6. LeadSlanger

    LeadSlanger New Member

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    I was kind of leaning toward the 66, but didn't know if it was worth passing up the 686 at a good price. I like that the ol' 66 is built the way Smith & Wesson's are known for. (well, for the most part) :)
     
  7. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    I would take a 2 digit model number S&W over other revolvers.
     
  8. LeadSlanger

    LeadSlanger New Member

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    Well, I made my mind up. Here's what I went with...a 66-4.



    ForumRunner_20121125_011339.jpg
     
  9. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    the older 66-4 of course. the newer 686's are just not like the older ones for some reason.

    nice choice BTW!
     
  10. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Now all you have to do is disprove the theory that short barrels cannot be accurate. :)

    Looks nice!
     
  11. Gh0zt36

    Gh0zt36 Active Member

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    Sweet smith .... congrats!!
     
  12. MoreAltitude

    MoreAltitude New Member

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    Glad you got the 66! Have you had a chance to shoot it yet? This 66 here was the first pistol I ever owned, and as such has the highest sentimental value of any firearm I have ever had. Enjoy yours...
     

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  13. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    It does...:(
     
  14. LeadSlanger

    LeadSlanger New Member

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    Thanks! I haven't got to shoot it yet. Hopefully before too long I'll be able to get her out and put some lead downrange.
     
  15. mag318

    mag318 Member

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    You made a good choice, the 66-4 is the last of what I consider the good ones. I just picked up a 686-4 and for shooting Magnum loads the slightly larger L frame is more durable than the K. But most people shoot 38 Specials out of their 66s anyway and you have a good one.
     
  16. Khromo

    Khromo New Member

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    I've got that same Model 66, although mine is marked "66-2". I always thought the "-2" indicated the 2 1/2" barrel, and the "-4" would indicate the revolver left the factory with a 4" barrel. Can an expert straighten me out here?

    It is freakishly accurate for a 2 1/2" barreled revolver. It's a bit of an adventure to shoot with full-boat .357 ammo. Lots of muzzle blast and flash. I load 148 grain hollow base wadcutters over 3.1 grains of Winchester 231 and shoot it all day. Great trigger, great sight picture, and comfortable as anything.
     
  17. HOSSFLY

    HOSSFLY New Member

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    The -2 is the production run- -2 -3 -4 ect
    BTW- the 2nd like yours WAS a great run :cool:
     
  18. LeadSlanger

    LeadSlanger New Member

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    The number after the dash indicates which revision it was. For example the first model would be a 66. When they made the first change to the model 66, no matter how small of a change it was, they put a dash after the model number. So the first revision would be a -1, the second revision would be a -2 and so on. Barrel length had nothing to do with the dash.
     
  19. mag318

    mag318 Member

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    The dash numbers represent engineering changes to the model.