My 270 Savage has a pitted barrel :/

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by The Rev., Oct 8, 2008.

  1. The Rev.

    The Rev. New Member

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    Hey guys, my 270 savage has a bit of pitting in the barrel. This gun was a gift to me and i am wondering if there are any fixes that can help. will this affect the groupings? can i get a replacement barrel in 243 cal? and is this interchangeable in the model 110 savage that i have, it seems that i can screw off the barrell as i have seen some barrell upgrades and replacement kits on line for under 200.

    Or is it even worth messing with?

    Thanx in advance
     
  2. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    My understanding is that barrel replacement on a Savage is relatively easy. You will need a headspace gauge in the appropriate caliber to set the new barrel in the receiver.
    The .243 is a short action caliber and the .270 is a long action caliber. You may need some modification to the magazine for the short round to work in the long mag.
    What is wrong with the .270? Very competent caliber. Just because the barrel has some pitting does not mean it must be replaced. Is accuracy poor? Or do you just want to build a project gun?
     

  3. The Rev.

    The Rev. New Member

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    Just wanted to know if the slight pitting is going to affect the accuracy? if the pitting does not affect the accuracy too much then it will be all good :)
     
  4. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    I guess that would depend on the level of accuracy you are talking about and what level of pitting you are refering to.

    While pitting is never ideal... In a hunting rifle that is going to take 4 shots a year ( a three round sight in group and one for the animal ) I would say you don't have anything to worry about.

    If it were a precision benchrest rifle, then hell yes, pitting would be the death of your chances to even place in an event.

    All things relative to what you are going for....

    Otherwise Robo is on point with the barrel change being easy and a head space gauge being needed.

    JD
     
  5. AR Hammer

    AR Hammer New Member

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    Again, time to separate the wheat from the chaff...

    Savage is VERY easy to change barrels in,
    Simply loosen the barrel nut, and unscrew the barrel from the receiver.

    Clip a round on the bolt and close the bolt,
    Screw the new barrel into the receiver until you feel the barrel shoulder on the round in the chamber, back the barrel off slightly, and tighten the barrel nut.

    If you are smart, you will drill a hole in the side of the round you use to head space the barrel, and dump the powder out, and squirt a little oil in the round to neutralize the primer...
    Accidents do happen, and a Dummy Round of production dimensions is good to have to prevent accidents.
    ------------------

    The Savage 110 is a very reliable rifle, and reasonably accurate for about any hunting you will be doing.
    I would rank it as one of the most economical rifles ever made simply because it is so sturdy and easy to work on.
    ------------------

    To answer the orignal question,
    Pits in a barrel don't make that big of a difference in the accuracy of a hunting rifle.

    You can use a 'Lapping' compound on bullets to minimize the effects of the pitting, but be careful! Most people over do the 'Fire Lapping' and wind up taking the edges off the rifling!

    If you ever take a look down some of the early hammer forged barrels, you will see lots of 'Pits', and many of those barrels were 'Hyper' accurate.
    Pits with sharp edges, or pits that have rust scale still sticking out of them will take 'Bites' out of the bullets,
    But pits with polished edges aren't of much concern unless they are REALLY big!

    Most hunting rifles are more accurate than the shooters or the sights/optics mounted on them, so small imperfections are not a big deal.
     
  6. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Are you seriously advocating putting a live round in a drill press or vice and inducing heat, by way of the drill bit, to drill a hole into the casing and "dump the powder out"?!

    Perhaps using a head space guage might be too much of a problem for you, but it certainly won't blow up in your face.

    TS - You can do what you want in the comfort of your own home, but I personally would not recommend heating a live round, for even a few seconds, with a drill bit.

    Gun powder go Boom sometimes...

    JD
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2008
  7. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Active Member

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    The ONLY safe way of creating/using a "dummy" round is to use bullet puller,pull bullet,dump powder out-making SURE to get it all out,remove primer VERY cautiously with deprimer,THEN drill holes in side of case! Also-simply using a factory round,screwing until contact,and backing off a lil is TOO IMPRECISE-headspace gauge is THE best way. If you INSIST on headspacing using a dummy round,I reccomend this method. put 2 layers of scotch tape on the head of case,trim excess off,since savage is a pushfeed type action put dummy round in chamber,close bolt,slowly screw barrel in by HAND until snug on dummy round. Then operate bolt to ensure correct headspace. It SHOULD close snug on the dummy round with the scotch tape on head. If it isn't snug,screw barrel back until the bolt just closes on dummy round with slight resistance(snug).
     
  8. h2oking

    h2oking New Member

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    AR Hammer, why do you have to be so caustic by implying you are the only one who knows anything? I must admit your post was very informative and while I usually always agree with both Dillinger and stalkingbear who in my view are no dummies, however I personally wouldn't have a problem drilling a hole in a live round either. The flash point(really called kindling) temperature of smokeless(key word) powder is much higher than obtainable by drilling in soft brass case with a sharp steel bit. stalkingbear's suggestion of using tape on the back of the case though I have never tried it is pretty informative as well.

    I joined this site to both learn and teach. I have been reloading for just a little over 50 years and I have owned and worked on a myriad of guns through out my life. The only Savage I am familiar are lever action and while I have rebarreld and re-chambered a few guns in my time I always bought a reamer and cut the chambers myself using a go and no go gauge for head spacing. Your suggestion of using a round sounds OK to me especially using a barrel that has already been chambered and has the adjustments you suggest it has. In closing please be assured that I am smart enough to recognize that you are a very knowledgeable guy and real value to this forum so please lighten up just a little and continue to share your knowledge, who knows you might learn something as well, I know I always do:)
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2008
  9. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Yeah, I would suggest using a round, dummy or not, to set head space. That is how any hack would do it in their garage after a few beers...

    Seriously, head space is set with a head space GUAGE because it is machined to a SPECIFIC dimension. Every round, reload, factory, dummy or otherwise will have some variation in dimension. Your rifle would then be head spaced perfectly for a specific load from a specific lot number from a specific box of ammo. Spend the $20 and get the correct head space guage, period.

    ARHammer, between your attitude and ****ty advice, you are quickly going the way of the other "chaff".
    The powder in a live round CAN and WILL ignite if the case is drilled, I have seen the after math of it once. There is no right, safe, acceptable or okay way to drill a live round. I really don't care about your years of machine shop experience, military firearms instructor experience or other boastful ventures, bad advice is bad advice and a bad attitude is a bad attitude.
     
  10. wrench

    wrench New Member

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    Was into Cabelas, and LEE reloading equipment has come out with a thing i believe is a head space guage, it was $35 or less. I didn't have a chance to stop and look at it, but it was a round on the end of a rod. Hope this helps.

    sincerely
    wrench

    <striving to enter at the narrow gate>
     
  11. h2oking

    h2oking New Member

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    I loved your few beers in the garage comment meaning I got a good giggle out of it. I must confess I have done some dumb things both in and out of my garage but beer was never the cause because I can't stand the stuff, embarrassed to say I was stone sobber. I would be interested for my own curiosity to know what the aftermath you witnessed drilling a live round was and that you please expand on what powder the case was loaded with. When I was a kid of about 10 years old I was trying to make something more powerful than firecrackers and M 80's. I took a fired 06 case and filled it to the top of the shoulder with 4350 and crimped a piece of dynamite fuse in the neck of the case. I did this several times and the end result was always the same, there was nothing more then burned powder ash and the fuse was not even pushed from the case. I learned just a few years later that smokeless powder needs about 10,000 degrees in temperature and about 10,000 PSI to make the chemical reaction of the powder work like it was intended, meaning make pressure. Containment in the case and just igniting is not enough to make the case explode without the pressure component, it will only allow the powder to burn/fissile to ash like what happened when I was kid. Dynamite as an example contains nitro glycerin which also is a major component of nitro cellulose (smokeless powder) can be burned (which I have done to get rid of it) and it too will not explode without the pressure component. You may think I am crazy as I am told that all the time by fixed wing pilots because I fly a helicopter and I am used to the ridicule but the fact remains I can land almost anywhere and they can't and smokeless powder will not explode if just ignited without pressure being added. I suppose you could argue that perhaps the burning of the powder may cause the primer to go off supplying the pressure needed but I think two things would have to happen first. One that drilling the hole would cause enough heat to ignite the powder and I think not (kindling point too high)and two if the drilling was the causation of the ignition it would have to be very near the primer as opposed to further away. Further away the bulk of the powder would be burned up before the primer was ignited leaving little or no powder to make any harmful pressure. That is my opinion based on my own experiences and I enjoy sharing so please do not take offense as that is not my intention. I am going to post something in a day or two about loading light loads with smokless powder and myths of what does and does not cause high pressure. I will look forward to anyone jumping in when I do so maybe we will all learn something and we includes me.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2008
  12. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    The incident I saw the remnants of was two kids (sounds a lot like your story!:D) drilling out I believe it was a 30-06 cartridge. I don't know if the the heat was enough to ignite the powder or if the bit snapped and sparked or what the ignition source was. In any case, as you said, there was nothing to contain the pressure so it simply flared. No catastrophic injuries, just minor burns on one kid's face and the other one's hand.

    I have burned uncontained smokeless powder before and am familiar with the way it burns, so I don't know how they managed to get burned, but they did. My intention was only to say that it CAN happen, albeit usually not in spectacular fashion like black powder.

    Like you, when I was a kid I attempted to make my own blow ups with smokeless powder with no luck.