Muzzle brake

Discussion in 'Firearm Accessories & Gear' started by elfmdl, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. elfmdl

    elfmdl New Member

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    Hen screwing on a muzzle brake is a crush washer all you need to get the timing right?
     

  2. tacticalfun

    tacticalfun Active Member

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  3. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    I think he means the position of the ports in relation to the barrel axis.
     
  4. tacticalfun

    tacticalfun Active Member

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    Pic of brake? A2 style just center the top port with the top of the barrel..mark it out if you have too
     
  5. MaddMac

    MaddMac New Member

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    No its not. Need more than a crush washer. You might get lucky and be able to time the brake with a crush washer but what you really need are peel washers. For final fit and exact timing, I hone the base of the brake on a diamond stone or take off .0005" at a time on my lathe.
    Either way, the timing is critical to get full benefit from a brake. Especially on a rifle such as an AR
     
  6. MaddMac

    MaddMac New Member

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    I forgot to add....you still need to use the crush washer with the peel washers. Peel washers index, crush washer keeps the brake on.
     
  7. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    ive installed a couple of surefire brakes and redone some of my A1 and A2 barrels replacing the crush washers with peel washers.

    dont torque it down more than 30ft lbs. after that you start to squeeze the bore and lose accuracy.

    i use rockset for true muzzle brakes it has enough grip strength to prevent the torque from the brake loosening it. its not quite as strong as blue locktite but it doesnt melt under heat that a firearm produces like red or blue locktite. parts are easily removed with hand tools. its safe to use on aluminum parts. its shear strength is lower than aluminum.
     
  8. elfmdl

    elfmdl New Member

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    What about a shim kit? Would that work?
     
  9. Badshot320

    Badshot320 New Member

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    Its a picture of duct tape, for the muzzlebrake but....ohh nm:mad:

    Badshot