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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had a Spikes Tactical Dynacomp Extreme installed by a local gunsmith. While looking it over when I got home, I noticed the Dynacomp was not directly aligned with the bayonet lug. I was under the impression it needs to be directly aligned. Is this right or should I have it looked at again?
 

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I believe it won't make a noticeable performance difference. But I would definitely want it lined up nice and symmetrical for aesthetic reasons.

I would take it back and ask if he'd fix it. If not, or is he gives you a hassle, I wouldn't do business with him again.

I asked opinions on a local Smith, if I should do future business with him because I caught him in a lie. The consensus was, "walk away". I'd only bought a single part, and I felt I got a good price, so i decided to give him another shot. Well... I lost my mag release retainer, and when he tried to bend me over for 20 bucks on a new one, that was all the further convincing I needed.

A good Smith is hard to come by. Bad ones are a dime a dozen it seems. Ask him to make it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
trip286 said:
I believe it won't make a noticeable performance difference. But I would definitely want it lined up nice and symmetrical for aesthetic reasons.

I would take it back and ask if he'd fix it. If not, or is he gives you a hassle, I wouldn't do business with him again.

I asked opinions on a local Smith, if I should do future business with him because I caught him in a lie. The consensus was, "walk away". I'd only bought a single part, and I felt I got a good price, so i decided to give him another shot. Well... I lost my mag release retainer, and when he tried to bend me over for 20 bucks on a new one, that was all the further convincing I needed.

A good Smith is hard to come by. Bad ones are a dime a dozen it seems. Ask him to make it right.
I'm just wondering if he can make it right. I took out my armorers wrench to see if there was any play in it either way and there is not. I'm wondering if I just need a thinner crush washer to give it that 1/6 more turn that it needs.
 

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It will make a small difference. The brake effect will not be symetrically pointed in the right direction and the downward signature will be greater than it should be (blowing dust around to show your position). the 'smith knows this is a weak job. The crush washer may be all used up and can't be tightend anymore (probably why he stopped torquing it down). So, maybe you need a different washer. I'd correct it if reasonably done, but the difference will be small, again, but there.
 

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I'm just wondering if he can make it right. I took out my armorers wrench to see if there was any play in it either way and there is not. I'm wondering if I just need a thinner crush washer to give it that 1/6 more turn that it needs.
LOL I just wrote that. CAREFUL with that muzzle!
 

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If you want it pretty line it up. If you want it to work, at least
give it a try the way it is first. If you are a right handed shooter,
the muzzle brake usually ends up clocked 5-15 degrees clockwise
(looking from the butt) to get the gun to recoil straight back
without an annoying little flip to the right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BillM said:
If you want it pretty line it up. If you want it to work, at least
give it a try the way it is first. If you are a right handed shooter,
the muzzle brake usually ends up clocked 5-15 degrees clockwise
(looking from the butt) to get the gun to recoil straight back
without an annoying little flip to the right.
I'm going to take it to a different gunsmith that does a lot more work with AR15s and see what he thinks. I'm more worried about performance over cosmetics. But the man Barbie in me wants it straight as string. I'm also considering having the barrel chopped 1.5 inches and having the muzzle brake pinned. I'll see what he says. Thanks for the input FTF members.
 

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When I installed my dynacomp, it was off just like yours is. I just took sand paper, laid it on a flat surface, and ran the crush washer over it to take off enough material to where the comp is indexed correctly when torqued down. Then cold blued the bare steel and installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
kamakazi said:
When I installed my dynacomp, it was off just like yours is. I just took sand paper, laid it on a flat surface, and ran the crush washer over it to take off enough material to where the comp is indexed correctly when torqued down. Then cold blued the bare steel and installed.
Cool. Will give that a try.
 

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Hopefully he didnt torque it down over 30ftlbs. Once you go over that mark it constricts the muzzle and your accuracy goes to hell.

Typically i set my wrench for 30lbs and torque until its lined up or hits 30ftlbs. Since thats a non directional brake, meaning it doesnt compensate for bullet torque it should be lined up.

Kinda why i prefer to diy one simple jobs like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
JonM said:
Hopefully he didnt torque it down over 30ftlbs. Once you go over that mark it constricts the muzzle and your accuracy goes to hell.

Typically i set my wrench for 30lbs and torque until its lined up or hits 30ftlbs. Since thats a non directional brake, meaning it doesnt compensate for bullet torque it should be lined up.

Kinda why i prefer to diy one simple jobs like this.
Judging by the fact I can't get it off, I'd say he went over the 30ft lbs mark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Took it the original place that installed the Dynacomp and showed a guy. He said it won't cause any problems. I told him it should be aligned. He told me they can do it but it would take a few days. I decided to take it to another gun store that has an armorer. Everyone employee took one look at it and said it wasn't right. I left it with them and the armorer will call me and let me know what's up. I'm thinking of having the barrel chopped and the muzzle brake pinned. Anyone have any experience with that?
 

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Are you in a ban state? If not I'd leave the barrel 16" and not pin the muzzle device. Why go to all that trouble for 1.5", index it and torque it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quentin said:
Are you in a ban state? If not I'd leave the barrel 16" and not pin the muzzle device. Why go to all that trouble for 1.5", index it and torque it properly.
I can't get it off. No I am not in a ban state. I'll just have the armorer fix it. This is my first build. I don't wanna break anything.
 

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A threaded barrel with a thread pitch of 5/8 - 24 has a 5/8" inch threaded diameter and 24 threads per inch of threaded barrel.

Every 360 degree turn of a device advances the device 1/24th of an inch.

1/24 = 0.04166666666 inch

0.04166666666/ 360 = 0.00011574074

Every degree turned advances the device 0.00011574074 inch

So if my device, torqued down to spec is advanced 45 degrees ahead of being timed, I would have to create a shim that is 0.00520833333 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hoovco said:
A threaded barrel with a thread pitch of 5/8 - 24 has a 5/8" inch threaded diameter and 24 threads per inch of threaded barrel.

Every 360 degree turn of a device advances the device 1/24th of an inch.

1/24 = 0.04166666666 inch

0.04166666666/ 360 = 0.00011574074

Every degree turned advances the device 0.00011574074 inch

So if my device, torqued down to spec is advanced 45 degrees ahead of being timed, I would have to create a shim that is 0.00520833333 inch.
Lol. I'm such a noob. I have no Idea what any of that means.
 
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