Mossberg Model 500 Tactical Refinish

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by texaswoodworker, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    I've decided that I want to refinish my Mossberg 500. I don't care for what ever kind of finish they used at the factory, because it is pretty easy to scratch and is kind of coarse (I don't know if it is supposed to be, I just know it is).
    I want to put something much more durable on, but I've never done anything like this, so I'm at a loss.
    I have heard a ton of good things and bad things about Cerakote, and Duracote. I have also heard a few good things about Brownell's Aluma-Hide II. Basically, all I want is a finish that is easy to do, cheap, and durable.
    I'm probably going to go with satin black for the reciever and barrel, and I'm thinking about maybe doing the stock in dark earth so that it will match my AR when it's done.
    Any suggestions?

    Also, What would I have to do to the gun itself? Could I just put the new finish over the old, or would I have to get it down to bare metal?

    Thanks
     

  2. Babyfacenelson

    Babyfacenelson New Member

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    I think you should trade it for cash and buy an 870 :p

    As far as i know (not far :p). You dont need to remove the old finish, just start on the new on. I have heard good things about duracoat, never used it myself.
     
  3. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    I happen to like that Mossberg. I also happen to like 870s too, but the Mossberg stays. :D :p

    If I don't have to remove the finish, that would be a huge help. :D

    Random question. I looked at both Cerakote's, and Duracotes websites and looked that their Magpul Dark Earth finishes. Why do they look so much darker than actual Magpul Dark Earth furniture?
     
  4. Babyfacenelson

    Babyfacenelson New Member

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    Aaand you went to far.
    Cant help ya there.

    If i had to guess it is probably just made from different chemicals and whatnot than actual magpuls, to avoid law suets and such.
     
  5. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    I can see how the chemical thing could be true, but both products actually have Magpul in their name, so I don't think they are worried about lawsuits (they probably have some deal with Magpul).
     
  6. KitchenGunsmith86

    KitchenGunsmith86 New Member

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    I've worked plenty with duracoat before. And by the way your Mossy is a great gun.

    Duracoat loves porous surfaces to grab on to. But it also loves bare metal. Putting it on the old finish will make it wear off super fast. There is a million ways to get your old finish off, from sandblasting to high grit sand paper To brake cleaner. All great choices. Spray it. The longer it cures the better. Literally a month of not touching it is best.

    From there you'll be in great shape and glad you did it. Money very well spent. Get one of the duracoat shake and spray kits by the way
     
  7. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    Thanks for the info. I have a cheap sandblaster form Tractor Supply, and I'm not really sure that would do a good job. What kind of place could I look for that could sand blast it for me, and what kind of sandblasting should they do?

    By hgh grit sandpaper, are you talking about like 320 grit, or more like in the 1000s?

    If I do the break cleaner option, do I just soak the parts in it? How long does that take? Is there anything I should worry about if I do this?

    Thanks
     
  8. KitchenGunsmith86

    KitchenGunsmith86 New Member

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    If you can't think of a place off hand by you that has a blaster and cabinet then I wouldn't pay anybody. The two best things of doing it yourself is #1 the fun and experience of it and #2 the cost savings. So my next choice would be the brake cleaner or carb cleaner with quad odd steel wool.

    Or lastly you can take your parts and soak them in white vinegar. It's cheap and it loosens it up. That though usually works best for blueing.

    Oh yeah also stuff called naval jelly will work as well to take it off.

    I'd go with the carb cleaner or brake cleaner and 0000 steel wool. Just do not whatever you do get it on anything plastic or wood. It will melt or stain. Skip the sand paper only use it as last resort. 1000 grit or higher. You can find those types at autozone. Rememember remove the finish not the metal. Good luck let me know what you do and how it goes.
     
  9. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    Thanks, I'll post pics of it when I finish it.
     
  10. Jet88

    Jet88 New Member

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    I duracoated my Mossy, and it turned out well. Only did the barrel and mag after some god awful cold blue didn't work on it. Kind of like an orange peel texture to mine, but I went pretty heavy. Removed the blue with blue wonder blue remover. Took it right off. Was unsuccessful getting the paint under the rib as you can see. Going to hit it with some black nail polish or automotive touch up paint.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. KitchenGunsmith86

    KitchenGunsmith86 New Member

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    Very nice. Now if you only just duracoated that. Avoid all urges to play with it and let it harden for the next couple of weeks. What color did you use?
     
  12. Jet88

    Jet88 New Member

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    Matte black lol. Didn't turn out to matte though. I tried so hard to get under that rib, but avoided overspray at all costs.
     
  13. KitchenGunsmith86

    KitchenGunsmith86 New Member

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    Yeah it can be a bugger some times but it looks good.