Mosin clean up

Discussion in 'Curio & Relic Discussion' started by Jpyle, Oct 28, 2011.

  1. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    It's been awhile since I purchased this 1938 91/30 but I finally got the time to strip it down and clean it up. Out of the box it didn't look to be too mucked up with Cosmoline, good thing since this is my first one.

    Here are a few pics of the different steps and products used...all in all a fairly straightforward but time consuming process. Turns out the major ingredient is elbow grease and lots of hot water...and no the rooster isn't needed but comes in handy to add atmosphere to the photos. :)

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    Here are a few pics of the metal parts soaking in boiling hot water, the Cosmoline just melted off and floated to the top of the water. One item to note, do not allow the water to cool down...the Cosmoline will congeal back to a waxy substance that gets back on the metal when you take it out of the water.

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    Last edited: Oct 29, 2011
  2. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    After getting all the metal parts de-Cosmolined it was time for a bath in a 10:1 mixture of Mobil 1 and Marvel Mystery Oil (thanks Cane).

    Here's another warning...before you reassemble the barrel and stock reinstall the rear sight mount, leaf spring and sight base. You may (will) need to use a C-clamp or some other tool to depress the spring enough to insert the roll pin (unless you have the strength of Hercules or a GI Joe Kung Fu grip). Be sure to protect the barrel and sight base with a towel of some sort. Trying to complete the sight with the stock on is, well..let's just say frustrating.

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    I tried to get a shot of the bore...its actually quite bright with very noticable rifling with no signs of any counterboring.

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    Now on to the stock. It has a nice reddish color that I want to preserve so I think its Murphy's Oil Soap and lots of work, I'll post up pics of the finished product as soon as they're available.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2011

  3. jpattersonnh

    jpattersonnh Active Member

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    The Red Color is actually shellac. Good job!
     
  4. Hinermad

    Hinermad New Member

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    I de-cosmofied the parts of my PSL in boiling water and had a similar problem - I couldn't lift them out of the water without pulling them through the oily layer floating on top. I ended up cleaning them a second time with mineral spirits. Maybe if I'd let the water cool down until the cosmo congealed and skimmed it off first they'd have come out cleaner.

    Marvel and Mobil 1, that's a good idea. Thanks!

    Dave
     
  5. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    You're welcome.

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    That stuff (Cane's Mobil Mystery Gun Oil) really works!

    Great post Jpyle!
     
  6. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    sink some paper towels in the water with the parts make sure you weigh em down with something other than parts to be cleaned. when ready to remove carefully cover parts with submerged towels and lift. cosmo will stick to towels not parts.
     
  7. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    That's what I would up doing as well, brushed everyting down with Mineral Spirits to get rid of that waxy residue on the metal.
     
  8. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    great idea...thanks, I'll have to remember that.
     
  9. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    Finished product...all shined up and ready to rock and roll...

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  10. Hinermad

    Hinermad New Member

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    Nice work! The orange polish didn't leave the wood sticky, did it?

    Dave
     
  11. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    Not a bit, I really didn't let it dry on though. I sprayed the stock and immediately rubbed it down and repeated. The Murphy's Oil Soap did initially leave a tacky residue but I wiped it down with warm water followed up by the Orange Glo. The result is a feel that is neither slick nor sticky, just a good, solid gripping surface.

    I would suggest that any stickiness remaining after cleaning is likely to be cosmoline. What I found doing this project is that the cosmo doesn't actually penetrate the wood through the heavy varnish but it does get in every nook, cranny and surface imperfection. Repeated, and I mean repeated like 10 times over, cleaning, rinsing, drying cycles are needed to get it all off. It's like cleaning spilled paint or oil, no matter how many times you wipe there is always something left.
     
  12. Hinermad

    Hinermad New Member

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    That's good to know. I've worked with Murphy's before and it's been my experience that it takes a fair amount of rinsing to remove completely.

    I had to bake the cosmo out of my PSL furniture. Some people say just put it in the oven at like 200 degrees, but I like to put food in there sometimes. (grin) Other people (who I think live in Arizona) say to wrap the wood in paper towels, tie it inside a black trash bag, and leave it in the car in the sun for a few days. I ended up improvising a hot box using a corrugated cardboard box big enough to hold the wood with a drop light and a 100 watt bulb inside.

    You warm the wood up to 170 degrees or so (I used a cooking thermometer to keep an eye on it) and the cosmo melts and oozes to the surface. You have to take it out and wipe it off a few times, but eventually it'll stop oozing. It's much easier on the shellac finish than using paint thinner or alcohol.

    Dave
     
  13. Abner

    Abner New Member

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    I just bought a Mosin rifle on Thursday from a local gun shop. The purchase was pretty much a impulse buy, but I think that I'm going to like the weapon.

    One thing I am not looking forward to doing is the compline clean-up.

    Thanks for this post.
     
  14. beaglesam

    beaglesam Active Member

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    You can't own just one.
     
  15. Tallguy

    Tallguy New Member

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    I did the cosmo cleanup from my stock by wrapping it in newspaper and putting it on the dash of my white pickup truck on a 90 or so degree summer day in Kansas. One day like that, wiping it off real good got it very nice for me.

    And beaglesam, your totally right. I have 5 M91/30s now and still looking to get some more!
     
  16. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Since this thread has been bumped up again, I'll add something.

    Shot my mosin today with downsouth and his bunch, using silver bear 203 gain soft point, 20 rounds total. It took more to clean that rifle than it did the first time I fired 150 rounds of com bloc surplus ammo.

    I don't know if that's a normal thing for silver bear or not, but in the end I just whittled a wine cork to fit in the muzzle, filled the barrel with hoppes, and just let it soak for a while.

    It still ain't as clean as I want it, and it took me months to get it as clean as I wanted it to begin with. I'm all out of hoppes, and I don't even have any ATF sitting around.

    I will NOT be buying that ammo again, regardless if that's normal or not.
     
  17. Jpyle

    Jpyle New Member

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    Soft point will always be dirtier and harder to clean than jacketed ammo. Have heard that a few rounds of FMJ does wonders to get that lead residue out of the barrel.
     
  18. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    This was black sooty stuff. Like BP residue.
     
  19. josan89

    josan89 New Member

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    Sorry to bump this threat up but I'm planning on buying a Mosin Nagant in the next month or so. I was thinking about cleaning the rifle stock using vapor. Would that affect the wood and finish of the stock?
     
  20. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    Never heard of it. What is it?