Mil dot scope on a slug gun

Discussion in 'Optics & Mounts' started by cva209x50, May 6, 2014.

  1. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    I'm saving up for the h&r 12 gauge ultra slug with the thumbhole stock. I plan on putting the truglo 4x32 tactical mil-dot scope on it. It's a FFP fixed 4x. My 5 questions are :

    1. How do you sight in a mil dot / turret scope?

    2. How long is a mil at 4x considering most mil dot scopes are 10x+?

    3. Can the truglo scope handle slug recoil?

    4. Im not going to shoot farther than 200 yards ; how far should I sight in at to get the most use out of the reticule (I have a laser rangefinder)?

    5. Which scope would be better for slugs : the truglo mil dot scope or the tasco 3-9x mil-dot scope?
     
  2. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    actually i would go with a nikon slughunter scope.

    a shotgun will beat the snot out of a truglo in no time flat.

    mildots arent going to mean much to you if your using a range finder....

    at 100 yards a typical subtend (center of a mildot to center of the next) is 3.6"

    more info at http://www.mil-dot.com/articles/the-mildot-reticle i dont feel like typing it all out.

    for slug hunting your better off forgetting mils and go with a reticle that is calibrated for a typical shotgun slug. nikon does it really well and they offer software called spot on that lets you figure exactly what your drops are for a given range at a given magnification.

    some folks like truglo i wouldnt use one to beat a terrorist to death...

    your going to have the same issues with tasco on a slug gun
     

  3. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    OK, what about:

    Truglo shotgun scope w/ diamond reticule

    Electronic red dot scope

    Simmons 4x32 scope with 4" eye relief

    Bushnell banner
     
  4. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    I normally would get a Nikon bdc scope but it's just a summer job (I'm 16) and I want to take my girlfriend out with whatever $$$ is left;)
     
  5. oO_Rogue_Oo

    oO_Rogue_Oo New Member

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    Okay first a little information that will help you better understand MILs versus MOA

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5AGsHSIsVo&list=TLCkp6Oxl3WBSIRQJ3XOoK_r3LLmyobISO[/ame]

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA2PZBD5Tjg&list=TL9FbnBI9lIE1v8Na62yl9MEGBD-K25hl_[/ame]

    Now that you've got that under your belt I'm going to bring up just ONE point in scope selection. Reticle & turret graduations and having them match. I'm sure after watching these two videos you can see the potential for a LOT of math when using a scope with a mildot reticle with MOA turrets which seems to be the case with the Truglo you mention. I really don't recommend the mismatch. If you are going to buy a mildot reticle scope I would suggest you chose one with mil graduated turrets.

    As to how to fit and sight in a scope here are a couple more videos that contain some good information on the subject.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COoXVpGfXQE[/ame]

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDrrJA14wtg[/ame]

    Hope this helps

    EDIT: Just an FYI all fixed power scope by definition are FFP
     
  6. oO_Rogue_Oo

    oO_Rogue_Oo New Member

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    Good advice being given here; do yourself a favor and give it serious consideration.
     
  7. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    I have a BSA shotgun scope on my slug gun. I have been very fortunate with the BSA. The first one I had lasted several years. One of the mounts broke taking out the scope with it. I learned a lesson from that experience, use steel mounts or mounts like the weaver quad lock.
    .
    Back to the scope, I sent BSA the old scope and a check for $10. BSA replaced my scope with a much nicer nitrogen filled scope that does not fog up. I haven't shot very many rounds with the new scope. But it has not drifted or given me any kind of grief.

    I shoot hornady or winchester 300 gr sabots. Both brands of sabots drop around 7" at 200 yards. I sight my scope in 2" high at 100 yards. Longer shots are difficult to make due to wind drift. A 12 ga sabot has a poor ballistic coefficient. At 200 yards a steady breeze will push a sabot a foot off target.

    Due to the wind it is best to sight in your shotgun a couple times. Try to get some practice on windy days. Allowing for wind drift is not rocket science but it requires practice with the ammo you plan to hunt with.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2014
  8. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    Just buy a respectable rifle scope in what ever power range you like. Some like a redfield 2-7 will hold up and not clutter up the lens with unneeded dots and lines. Work your zero out to a 150 to 175 yards . As you find what shoot best at 100 makes some note as to where it impacts at 50 too and 200 yards and your ready too. I have had an old bushnell 3-9 on mine for some 25 years. Winchesters 386gr nosler partition slug fps slug is a fast almost 2000fps slug that carry's well down range and bucks the wind well. You will not get lots of wind drift with the heavier sabots. More like a hot 45/70 load. Solid 200 yard slug load.
     
  9. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    See hardluk's reply above.

    My opinion is if you buy cheap your going to be buying again. This doesn't mean you need a 1400$ nightforce. It just means save up a little more for a better optic from a company with a decent rep for making shotgun optics.
     
  10. nchunt101

    nchunt101 New Member

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  11. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    I personally like Simmons scopes. I'm thinking about getting the Simmons 4x shotgun scope w/ diamond reticule off of Amazon along with some steel weaver rings and a 12 gauge chamber inserted bore sighting module.
     
  12. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    How much eye relief do I need? I know the minimum is 3" but I plan on using 3" slugs and the recoil is worse with 3" slugs.
     
  13. Triumphman

    Triumphman Active Member

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    You're leaving out some information about your Slug gun. Are you running a Saddleback Mount? A custom drilled/tapped receiver? You keep talking about Weaver Mounts, but you need a "Base" first to even put the Weaver Scope Mounts on. What have you got?

    Yes, you'll need some serious eye relief. I would suggest a good Scout Scope that will give you the scope eye relief you need. A good Red Dot in Leupold, Primary Arms, Bushnell Trophy to name a few. Stay away form those that sell under $100. You might even knock out a $250 Red Dot---who knows. You need something that will handle extreme shock. Go to SWFA and take a peek at what they have in good quality scopes. Give them a call and ask questions about the scope you select for the job you want it to do.
     
  14. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    The h&r ultra slug shotguns come with a Weaver style base / rail already bolted to the gun.
     
  15. cva209x50

    cva209x50 New Member

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    Would a reflex sight work?
     
  16. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    Wht change to a optic that will limit accuracy at longer ranges a good slug can shot at. Give your self the best view possible . I would even up grade from a fixed 4 to a 2x7 up to a 2.5 to 10 so you can pick when you have a clear shot cause even a slug is not a brush buster, really !!
     
  17. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    This is a personal issue. I tend to use my scope for binoculars. I have the scope turned up to 12x watching squirrels play. Then I see a deer 10 yards away from my stand. My scope is on 12x I try to shoot the deer but all I can see is a patch of blurry hair. I try to to adjust my scope but all this movement at 10 yards allows the deer to spot me. The deer runs away. A couple minutes later I hear my hunting partner shooting. I wait 20 minutes. Then walk to my partners stand. There he is with the deer I let get away.

    I found a way to fix this issue. I use nothing but fixed power scopes. Fixed power scopes are very durable. I have only had one fixed power scope to fail in my life. 300 yard shots are make-able with a 4x scope. When I am shooting a gun unsupported I don't want the scope any higher than 5x any way. I don't always buy expensive scopes either. The glass in a $60 to $100 scope today is just as good if not better than a $500 scope from 20 years ago. Where the difference is the adjustments are not always repeatable and you can't set the adjustment knob to zero once you have the scope sighted in. Another issue with cheap scopes is each click is not exactly 1/4 moa or whatever the scope maker says each click should be.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  18. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    I own bino's I keep my variable power scopes set low . If the game comes close I'm ready with a 2 or 3 power low range . If a deer is 200 yards off I can scan it with binos first to see if its worth taking. Then its no different then shooting at a deer at 450 yards with your rifle. Roll in power as your shouldering your rifle and shoot. I also don't worry about "clicking the scope turrets. THis is not a match shoot, ether use a scope with limited yardage dots like many slug and todays rifle scopes have and learn them or go old school and move your zero to a longer range and note what happens to bullet impact at shorter yardage and out to your max limit. If your uncomfortable remembering the impact point make a cheat sheet to help you. After a while it will be in memory. That's what I do. Long range zero. Anything hog sized and larger is good to go from 20 feet to 225 yards with the slug gun. with out adjustments other than power. I like a enough scope power. No lower fixed power scope here.