Marlin 60 cleaning

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by bobbygeegee, Jul 1, 2014.

  1. bobbygeegee

    bobbygeegee New Member

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    Suggestions please. What do I need for cleaning my Marlin 60?
     
  2. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i use brake cleaner, a CLP and a bore solvent.

    i remove the action/barrel from the stock and remove the scope. flush all the working areas along with the bore with brake cleaner, then using compressed air blow everything out. clean the bore with a good bore solvent, until clean. then i spray everything with a CLP, let sit for a bit and then blow off the excess with compressed air and then re-assemble.
     

  3. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    My Model 60 has a plastic (urethane?) buffer at the rear of the trigger group. Brake cleaner may be detrimental to the life of this buffer. Try Gunscrubber, it should be a bit easier on the synthetic parts.

    Some will require a flat blade screw driver to remove the action/trigger group from the upper. As Axxe stated, flush it out with aeresol cleaner and lightly lube. Be careful about dinging the muzzle with a cleaning rod. Bugger the crown and lose the accuracy.
     
  4. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i am using a non-chlorinated brake cleaner/degreaser made by Zep called Kwik-Solv, that is safe for plastic, rubber, painted surfaces, metal and electrical components like printed circuits, relays and motors.

    it comes in a 22 oz. non-aeresol bottle with a spray nozzle. it also dries with no residue and cleans well and evaporates quickly.

    i got it from a supplier at work that is a Zep dealer. i am not sure if this is even available at the retail level or not. i bought a case of 12 bottles a few years ago, andstill have about 7 bottles left. i highly recommend it if a person can get it.
     
  5. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    +1

    Also get yourself a good one piece cleaning rod if you don't already have one. If you have one of the 3 piece screw together aluminum cleaning rods, do yourself a favor and throw it away. ;)
     
  6. masterPsmith

    masterPsmith New Member

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    Mineral spirits in my parts cleaning tank and compressed air work just fine for cleaning. As for lube, a light mix of Mobile-1 and Marvel Mystery Oil works great with all excess blown away with compressed air. Been using various ratios of the oil mix for years with great results. Also makes a great exterior preservative against rust and corrosion.


    Jim............
     
  7. jjfuller1

    jjfuller1 New Member

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    any good cleaner.. clp, froglube, hoppes. screw driver, brush. patches, rags. and bore snake or cleaning rods.
     
  8. mboylan

    mboylan New Member

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    The bore won't need cleaning before the action does. So do yourself a favor and don't clean from the muzzle. Take the barrel and action out of the stock. Separate the action from the barrel. Blow out the action and clean the bore from the breach.
     
  9. DrFootball

    DrFootball disappointed & disgusted, But DETERMINED... Lifetime Supporter

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    What Axxe Said...except I rarely use compressed air last , which can cause moisture buildup. If I can't reach it with a bore Snake, or a brush, it gets Air., but as a last step so I can Dry it out afterwards...




    Sent from my iPhone using Firearms Talkh
     
  10. therewolf

    therewolf New Member

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    Patience

    Google

    Q-tips and cleaning solvent

    Powdered graphite for re-assembly.(use sparingly)
     
  11. Rex in OTZ

    Rex in OTZ Well-Known Member

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    I used to clean my fathers model 60 before going out for the night of running coonhounds, used to take the trigger group out and soak in pail of warm dish water, used a acid brush and old tooth brush (m16 type works best)
    Rinse with hot tap water, I let moisture flash off from (hot water) warm temp metal parts would dry themselves quick. Then same thing with the bolt assy, for barrel cleaning id used a 1/8" brass brazing rod, ram a wad of paper towel through the chamber to muzzle, then finish to oil lightly with 3in1 machine oil.
    Reassemble and fire a round in a old wood block to function test, from experence night hunting id used a prick punch to witness mark both front and rear sights, Id make cold chisel two light thin marks for front sight so a guick check with flashlight confirmed is in its place.
    rear sight ran couple wraps electrical tape round rear sight elevator to keep the stamped metal elevator in place, also a punch mark next to rear sight fwd point to quick check windage was still where it was set on sighting in.
    the mag tube needs cleaning once a couple years, clean old lube scum from the inside mag tube body and the mag follower, check follower moves freely i usedbthe brazeing rod for this, any kinks can be removed with the right size steel rod with a bullet tip, i useally would sligtly bow the inner mag tube so it wouldnt fall out when you didnt need to when in marsh and reloading.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2014
  12. Rex in OTZ

    Rex in OTZ Well-Known Member

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    cleaning box contents

    Yes q-tips are must have also tooth picks and brass wire with diffrent points and edges with slight bends 'think art stylus' to scrape grime oil and spent powder out the extractor groove, the edge the receiver round the barrel breech, burnt powder collects there, (you dont want a sharp steel dental pick as it scratches steel and alum).
    i keep 2 shop floor oil sorbent pads, work over the bench, keep some fine steel wool, 2 grades of scothbrite pads you can cut to size for scrubbing the tough buildup spots.
    scothbright works great to clean powder scum from the inner mag tube.
    its a pain to pull dissemble the inner mag with its spring and follower (pinned end plug) its driven in from one direction and is a interferance fit be sure not to overdo the reinstallation of pin by over driving or putting it in wrong way the hole has 2 diffrent sizes (not a taper reamed hole)
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2014
  13. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    I just take the stock off my model 60 and run hot water on the action until it is clean. Then I use a hair dryer to blow most the water away and get the receiver warm. My marlin 60 is 35 years old, Hot water is all I have ever cleaned the Model 60 with. It will empty the magazine as quick as you can pull the trigger.
     
  14. tinbucket

    tinbucket Well-Known Member

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    I had aa 60 that I cleaned thoroughly after shooting. I took the barrel and action out of the stock and took the action, held by four screws, from the receiver and cleaned it with Hoppes. The gun finally loosened up from shooting/and disassembly. the barrel was held in place by a pin, in a notch in the barrel, I guess, from the sides of the receiver.
    I like to clean my guns with bore snakes, it ssaves possible damaage to the crown of the muzzle. I used to use heavy thread and a patch before bore snakes came along. Some here are using brake cleaner, I read. Doesn't that haarm the paint on the receiver? there are two or three spray cleaners out there now. I haven't gotten around to using any of them. I have a model 60, I bought for 20.00 several years ago. Haven't shot it much. If I do I think I will use one of the new spray cleaners. I remember lubricant and lead or something really sticking on the chrome feed ramp and of course powder all through the receiver. Some of the .22s had yellow grnaules, that I hated because it was a ppain to clean and reassemble. Even doing it carefully I or the shells being fired loosened up the barrel from the receiver. I wonder if the idiots that stole it still shoot it?