Man this sucks....

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by cpttango30, Feb 7, 2010.

  1. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    I have 500 brand new cases that need to have the flash hole's deburred. Any one wanna do it for me? I have 100 done already oh well got plenty of time off to do them in-front of the TV.
     
  2. BILLYBOB44

    BILLYBOB44 Active Member

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    What are you talking about?? I de-capped 2K of 9MM brass this weekend, in prep for cleaning!!:eek::D That's a lot of "short strokin" on my RC press..:confused:
     

  3. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    I can't believe I forgot.....did the stick show up?
     
  4. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    NO I am frothing at that dam mouth wanting to get that gun here. I think the snow mayby slowed her up a little.


    I got half of them done.
     
  5. Silvertip 44

    Silvertip 44 New Member

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    cpttango, I just received 1000 new IVI .308 cases. I was looking for the burrs you are talking about. Are they down inside the case right at the edge of the flash hole? The primer pockets and flash hole there are clean and didn't see anything like a burr. I also ordered a flash hole deburring tool, flash hole cleaner and primer pocket uniformer.
    Tell me about these burrs so I'll know what I am looking for.
    I got to trim all these cases too.
     
  6. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    Get a small flash light and look down in side the case. You will see them. It is left over brass from when the flash hole is punched in. High end brass like Norma, Lapua and others have drilled flash holes so there is no burrs on them. I have the lyman tool that is cheap and works great. I don't use the handle I chuck it in my cordless dril and set it on low speed and go to town. NOTE: your hand will start to hurt after about 20 or so cases. I can do about 50 to 100 this way before I have to stop.
     
  7. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I did 100 30-06 cases and 200 .308 cases over the weekend. Actually I did everything from clean, aneal, resize, decap, polish, uniform primer pockets, deburr flash holes, trim, chamfer, load and check in headspace gauge all 300 rds this weekend. Now I just have to get the rain to stop so the range un-floods so I can send some into the backstop and do it all over again (except the deburr and primer pocket uniform).

    I also loaded 200 rds of 7.62 X 39 but I do not worry about anealing, uniforming primer pockets and deburring flash holes on those.
     
  8. hunter Joe

    hunter Joe New Member

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    Robbo, do you have a good whitetail hunting load for 7.62 x 39?
     
  9. Silvertip 44

    Silvertip 44 New Member

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    Thanks cpttango, I rekon these little things like nibs right at at the edges of the flash holes inside the cases is what I need to remove.
    How does it affect the round if I don't remove them?
    I will go ahead and do it anyway because I have decided in my old age that I will load the best quality ammo that it is humanly possible for me to load.

    Now if the robocop would keep all that damned rain in Texas and not send it east to Georgia maybe i could go try out some of my ammo.
     
  10. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    deburing the flash hole allows a more even and uniform flame from the primer thus allowing better more uniform ignition of the powder. The more uniform things are the more accurate the cartridge is.
     
  11. Silvertip 44

    Silvertip 44 New Member

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    Ok, think I better understand now. I will wait until the mail comes with my flash hole deburring tool and get that done before I go any farther. I will just continue to trim to length. 1000 cases will take a while with that. No sense in getting in a hurry is there? Until the rain stops and the wind calms from 60 mph gusts I can't go shoot anyway.
     
  12. mrm14

    mrm14 Active Member

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    .308 reload project that I did last June and July I resized and prepped just over 8500 cases in my liesure time. I bought the RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center. All I can say is that this tool made the process of deburring the flash holes, primer pocket cleaning and uniforming, and inside and outside case neck champhering for this amount of brass alot more plesant and quicker than continuing to do it by hand. If you get this machine and prep brass in front of TV on TV tray,as I did, you might consider using the shop vac to clean up the shards of brass shavings, which in my case not only ended up all over the floor but on the recliner chair I sat in as well. At the time the mess didn't go over very well with the GF.
     
  13. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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  14. mrm14

    mrm14 Active Member

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    Now you've done it. I'm going to have to buy one of these. This Giraud trimmer champhers as it trims and even has a meplat trimmer conversion. I can not only see this as a must have for the remaining still near full garbage can of 308 Win. brass I have, but for the 300 Win. Mag. I'll be loading soon for the target rifle.

    I have the RCBS Trim Pro Power Case Trimmer but it doesn't champher the trimmed case neck. Also using the cutters on the Trim Mate Case Prep Center for the case neck champhering in high volume runs, even though better than doing it by hand , still really sucks after 500 or so rounds.

    Do you have or use the Giraud case trimmer?
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2010
  15. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    No I don't but ever since the day I was showed a video I have wanted one. For me it would just be a kick azz toy to have. But yes that thing is a high volume loaders dream machine.

    I can show you some nifty stuff. Like the Brass-o-Matic annealing machine.

    New, Versatile Brass-O-Matic Annealing Machine AccurateShooter.com Bulletin

    here is the Ken Light annealing machine very nice and makes the task much easier and provides better uniformity of annealing.

    The After Market Sight Specialist - Ken Light Manufacturing

    Greats article about it.
    The Art and Science of Annealing
     
  16. mrm14

    mrm14 Active Member

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    I've seen the brass-o-matic machine but this is the first time I've seen the Ken Light machine. I've been looking into some sort of annnealing equipment for not only high volume runs but also for the brass for the target rifle.

    All my 308 Win. brass is once fired either out of my current up and runnning SAI M1A or one of the older SA M-14/M1A's not currently up and running. I've been saving most all my spent brass since 1992. I figure that I should be O.K. for about 2 or 3 resizings of this brass before I would need to anneal. For the 300 Win. Mag., my brass now is all new Nosler brass and I figure it will need to be annealed as well after a couple of resizings.

    Whats your thoughts on how often annealing should be performed?
     
  17. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    It varies but I think about once 3 or 4 firings is about right. Just depends on how much you work the brass and how hot the loads are you are shooting.

    The nice thing is you can do it after each firing if you wish as brass has unique properties that allow the brass to return to the original state once heated. unlike steel which changes and is different after every heating brass just goes back to its original state.
     
  18. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I aneal after each loading as I tend to pick up range brass also that gets mixed in. To insure all the brass is properly anealed, I just do it all.

    I don't bother anealing 5.56 or 7.62X39 as I generally lose them before they become a problem. My 7.62 X 51 brass gets fired through an HK and a CETME. Both give the brass a pretty hefty workout. I aneal to neutralize the adverse effects of the delayed roller blowback systems.
     
  19. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper New Member

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    Doesn't the HK/CETME have a fluted chamber Robo?
    I didn't think you could reload the brass:confused: Any other special steps required to load?

    The reloading issue has kinda kept me from getting one.
     
  20. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

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    I started annealing because I kept getting lots of carbon on my case necks. I did a test and noticed I had to run near max loads to stop it. I don't like loading like that so I tested a batch of win brass that was on its 4th reload. I just held the brass over my torch then dropped into a bucket of water. After that no more carbon.