M1917 Eddystone Sporter Project

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by Tworr, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    First time posting here. I was searching the net for information and came across your website and CA357's post on his Enfield Project so I thought I would share.

    A few weeks ago I inherited my Grandfathers M1917 30.06 that was heavily sporterized and it hadn't been out of storage and cared for in nearly 20 years if not more. It's serial number is in the 960k range and puts it as an 1918 model. I'm not sure what month that makes it.

    The original park finish had seen it wear, but was pretty much there except the rust was pretty bad and I had to use 3M pad and 220 sandpaper and finish it up with 0000 steel wool.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A little over one inch of the tip of the barrel is heavily pitted. Inside of the barrel looks good. I would love to have it reparkerized, but due to the damage of the rust on the tip of the barrel I'm wondering if I should Duracoat it or go with some other finish that would hide it.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009
  2. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    The stock is a Bishop and was a solid chuck of wood. I have fairly large hands and found that the triangle shape of the stock was just too hard to hold.

    Here's the shaping I did with the wood grater and sandpaper.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It feels much more comfortable now that it went on a diet and has less hard edges. I used rubbing alcohol and cotton pads to clean the stock and get some of the dirt and oil out of the wood.
    [​IMG]


    In the next week or so I will be taking it to the gunsmith to get weaver mounts put on it. I had bought weaver mounts 35 and 36 for my Remington 700 .243, but they look like they would fit pretty good. I'll have to let the gunsmith see if any more of the rear area needs to be ground down for them to work.

    My biggest concern is what to do about the tip of the barrel. I hate to cut it off. It does look like it could be recrowned, but I was wondering if adding a muzzle break would help it and hide the pitted areas. It's already sporterized, might as well keep on going right?

    If I Duracoated it to hide the pitted area I would possibly go OD green, but I would really like to reparkerize it and go for the green tint. Is soaking it in Valvoline a good way to do that?

    Thank you for looking,

    Tworr
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2009

  3. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    I used Birchwood Casey Blueing and Rust remover on my barrel, then sanded with #300 to #600 grip sandpaper. I then used Oxpho-Blue cream blueing for the finish. It came out pretty good after six coats or so. I could probably put another six coats on for a really pretty finish, but I like it as it is.

    My barrel was extremely pitted as well and the sanding got a lot out, but it's still there. I figure it's earned some battle scars, so it's okay the way it is.

    It's an old warrior, not a new rifle and it has character. My suggestion would be to clean it up as best you can, then take it out and shoot it. I believe you'll be surprised how accurate it is.

    BTW, when I removed the blue on mine, I found the date 11-18 near the muzzle of the barrel.
     
  4. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    Well, you did a fine job.

    I don't really want a muzzle break, so I will spend some more time on the pitted area and see how it turns out. You're right that it's an old warrior and the battle scars adds character and ages it. That's something for me to think about right there makes me want to parkerize it.

    The first thing will be to see how accurate it is after I get the scope mounts on.
    I've fired it, so I know it shoots. How well it shoots with a scope may determine what else I do and how much I spend on it. I also have a 1918 Colt 1911 that's needing to be restored and it's going to take more than I have right now to get it completed.
     
  5. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    I dropped the Enfield off at the gunsmiths tonight to be drilled and tapped for the scope mount. I'm also having the tip of the barrel cut off and re-crowned. The bore looked pretty bad at the tip of the barrel and the crown was in pretty bad shape as well. The barrel should be 23" when it's done. Since the pitted area will be removed I should be able to get it reparkerized later on.

    Now I just have to wait a few weeks for him to get it back. :(
     
  6. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    Sounds good. The waiting part sucks though. :(
     
  7. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

    5,549
    2
    0
    Nice looking rifle.

    If you end up with some serious pits after getting it back from your 'smith you can always try the old "fill the pits with JB Weld, sand them down and paint the whole thing with Aluma Hyde 2 or Dura Coat" trick. It will look great.

    A 23" tube is more than enough for .30-06, so you should be getting us some nice range reports soon.
     
  8. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    I finally got my Enfield back from the gunsmith. Bad area of the barrel cut off and crowned as well as scope mounts added.

    I still need to get a scope on it and see how it shoots.

    I put a couple of coats of cold blue on until I can decide what to do with it.

    Here's an old box of 30.06 ammo that I pulled out of the safe for the picture. The price tag is faded, but it looks like it says $4!! I wonder just how old it is?

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  9. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    Looks like it's starting to come together. Please keep us in the loop.
     
  10. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

    5,549
    2
    0
    Looking good. Save that ammo box for display, if nothing else.
     
  11. greydog

    greydog Member

    158
    6
    18
    At a glance, it looks like the rear base is too high. You may have to go to a number 46 on the front. Either that, or the receiver bridge needs to be re-contoured. It was common practice to re-contour the Enfields to the same contour as the 700 but your's looks to be high at the rear.
    Actually, it's not entirely correct to say the Enfields were typically contour like a 700. The truth is, the 700, and it's predecessors the 722 and 721, were contoured like the Enfield based Model 30.
    One nice thing about Enfields is that the bolt handle and safety will work in conjunction with a low mounted scope. Your Enfield looks to be on it's way to being a good sporter. GD
     
  12. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    Thanks Greydog,

    I still need a scope for the it, but I will certainly look into the number 46 mount. When I originally picked it up it has a solid one piece mount that had been cut and made to fit. I disliked how it felt in the way and grabbed my 700 mounts off the shelf and put on it. I'll go home tonight and double check the differences.

    Thank you for noticing!!! That may have saved me headache and several $$$ in spent rounds trying to sight in.

    I haven't even gotten to the range to shoot it. I've picked up a couple of new guns and a couple of other projects, so trying to decide which one gets a little money here and there has been hard. I'm ready to get a scope on it and have it sighted in for deer season this year.

    Todd
     
  13. cpttango30

    cpttango30 New Member

    13,934
    4
    0
    IF they are out of alignment you would have ruined a scope mounting it like that.

    My 1917 is different I had to have a custom mount made for my rear mount because that one needed to be a 1/4" higher to line them up.
     
  14. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    I finally picked up a scope and had a free weekend to get the Eddystone out of the safe and spend a little time shooting it between thunderstorms.

    You guys were right about the 700 mounts not being aligned. There's no way they would have worked and it was obvious that a scope would not have fit.

    I'm disappointed that the gunsmith did not do what I asked and only milled down a solid weaver mount and made it fit instead of taking the time to mill the back of the receiver down where a two piece would work.

    I mounted a Bushnell Banner 3x9 rifle scope on it. It shot good and other than feeling like the solid mount was in the way, I didn't have any problems.
    I sure had fun, but my shoulder on the other hand is screaming this morning. 20 shots with a rubber-less butt pad and it's going to be brushed and sore for a few days.

    I took the one piece mount off this morning and will take it to see if I can get something to match up before I take it back to the gunsmith. The number on the solid mount was 86. I'm not sure how much was removed from the back portion to make it level.

    I'll also be picking up a rubber butt pad and getting it on ASAP!!
     
  15. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

    5,549
    2
    0
    The rule is to always try and fit the part to the gun, rather than the gun to the part, whenever possible. And the 1917 receivers are extremely hard, so machining them is very expensive.

    Did you take some pics for us?
     
  16. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    I can understand that.

    When it was originally cut down it wasn't exactly perfect and you can see space under one side of the rear mount. That's why I had asked for it to be leveled and made to work with the Rem 700 mounts.

    I'll post a picture of it tomorrow.
     
  17. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    Keep us in the loop Tworr.
     
  18. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    Here you can see that I have little room and why I wanted the two piece mounts.

    [​IMG]


    Here you can see under the edge of the rear of the mount.

    [​IMG]


    Could it work? Yes... It's just not working for me and isn't what I asked for.
     
  19. Tworr

    Tworr New Member

    33
    0
    0
    update

    It looks like the number 46 mount is what I am needing. It comes the closest to matching up to the number 36 mount on the rear. When I put a level across the top of the two mounts I see that the front or the rear mount will need to be taken down 1/16" to make it level.

    Which recoil pads do you guys recommend?

    How are the Remington SuperCell Recoil Pads?



    Thank you!!

    Todd
     
  20. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

    19,847
    3
    0
    I used a Pachmayr grind to fit pad on mine.