Lubrication

Discussion in 'Auto & Semi-Auto Discussion' started by A Torj, Jan 3, 2020.

  1. A Torj

    A Torj New Member

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    Trying to get some info here. Already tried the internet to no avail. So I’ve been trying my best to keep my gun properly lubricated, heavy sustained fire for long periods of time, 400-500 rounds at a time at basic full auto speed. I’ve been using basic Hoppes Gun oil and that dries up pretty quick even if I inject the crap into the ejection port and every nook and cranny of the BCG. I purchased this stuff called Grizzly Grease and it says to apply allow to soak in and then wipe clean, I’m wondering would there be any issues with doing this and then applying a heaping helping of hoppes on top of it?
     
  2. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Well-Known Member

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    When I was in the Army we squirted Break Free all over the bolt and rolled. Never had a problem
     
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  3. dirtygary

    dirtygary New Member

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    Delete.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
  4. locutus

    locutus Well-Known Member Supporter

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    EEZOX or Dri-Slide will give you all of the lube you need.
     
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  5. SGWGunsmith

    SGWGunsmith Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I was converted to EEZOX around 14 years ago. Best move I made, as now I only need to stock one CLP!
     
  6. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Torj,
    I assume you are talking about an AR-15/16 Rifle.
    First of all most manufacturers do not recommend any grease!
    Nothing wrong with Break Fee but shake it up before use. It will separate if setting for a period of time.

    If you want some excellent lube for the application. I would highly recommend G-96.
    Simply spray the Bolt and go for it! And light lube on other parts.

    The other is One Quart of 5W50 Mobile #1 Synthetic Motor Oil and 1/2 Quart of Mobile #1 Synthetic Transmission Fluid. This will make a Quart and a half of the best lubricant you can have. I put mine in one of the Radio Control Fuel Containers shake it up once and whala! You can refill one of those little pump sprayer bottles like the use at a beauty shop to mist the lube on the parts.
    We have used this formula for years (18) at the State Law Enforcement Academy Carbine Instructor Certification School. And each student shoots hundreds of rounds during the course.

    But the AR Weapon Company I worked for and still do their LE/Govt. Armorer School for still use G-96 to lube all their new guns going out. I have sprayed G-96 on the Bolt and lightly lubed other parts during grueling demonstrations in the past and the guns ran all day without issues.

    03
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
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  7. Wambli

    Wambli Well-Known Member

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    What he said. If it will keep a motor operating at high temps and running at thousands of RPMs for hours lubricated it can handle any gun out there.
     
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  8. SGWGunsmith

    SGWGunsmith Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Hmmm, wonder why the military doesn't use motor oil for lubing firearms then?
     
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  9. Wambli

    Wambli Well-Known Member

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    For the same reason they dump diesel that has "expired" and PAY someone to dispose of it as hazardous materials, who then turns around and sells it as fuel oil. They are highly inefficient machine and have no accountability to costs. I have two kids active duty and more than half my family is military as well as many of my friends. Oh, and the recommendation for the use of these particular oils came to me from a VERY high level instructor in SF. A guy that is still going there, doing that and wearing out t-shirts most of us will never get to even see. That's how he keeps his full auto HK416 wet.

    Give it a try. It also makes cleaning a heavily used gun a snap!
     
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  10. Shopfox

    Shopfox Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I use synthetic 0W-20. Goes on thin so it spreads well, made for high temps, high rpm's, and fully synthetic.
     
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  11. Wambli

    Wambli Well-Known Member

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    I have used the oil and the transmission fluid. Both mixed and by themselves and they work well in any way you use them. Couldn’t tell you there is a real difference in performance between them.

    I also use high temp synthetic axel grease (the kind you use for trailers) as my main CCW lubricant for pistols. I apply it thinly/sparingly to the rails using a small thin watercolor painting type brush. I buy those by the dozen from art supply stores but you can use q-tips in a pinch or you can load a small syringe and use that to apply.

    Stays put where I apply it, still in place days, weeks and months after cleaning and lubing and it works GREAT, and one tube will last you three lifetimes.
     
  12. Les Moore

    Les Moore Well-Known Member

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    I would break it up into three steps:
    1. Clean out the carbon, soot, copper, etc. first.
    Vinegar, Janitor's Ammonia, ATF, all work. for the barrel, run a patch of something, run a couple dry patches, then try something else, till it comes up with a shiny bore. Absorb all the carbon and soot after field stripping the carrier, and don't forget the bolt well and the firing pin hole and orifice on the bolt face. IF you got it really dirty, ATF works while you sleep.
    2. Clean up and neutralize the chemicals and glop from step 1 with Dawn & water, about 1:4
    3. Once everything is clean and dry, Mobil 1 works, "Specialist",(the synthetic made by WD40) NO, I DID NOT SAY "USE WD40", READ THE POST, Clenzoil, or SLP2000 all work well. If you have some other favorite oil, I don't get a percentage from any of these companies. Wipe off all the excess, it's easier, if you apply oil with a Q-tip.
     
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  13. locutus

    locutus Well-Known Member Supporter

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    For several years, long ago, my neighbor was a Singer sewing machine dealer. He kept me supplied with Singer sewing machine oil and it worked like gangbusters!:)
     
  14. Sniper03

    Sniper03 Supporting Member Supporter

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    Regarding the Military
    As was mentioned because they spend ten times the money on some cool chicks digit lucrative military contract. For example of not being thrifty, I contacted a Army Fort Armorer Section at a well known Army Base.
    I was looking for the Head Space Gauge they use that is slightly less than the normal Field Gauge. Then I was shocked! Being Army myself things were a little different then I believe. The Sergeant whos MOS was Armorer advised, we do not really do any armorer work to speak of anymore. We no longer have gauges and other tools. The Army sub contracts that out to civilian outside companies! Basically, all we are anymore are glorified weapon cleaners! "Sure seems like a waste of money to me" when they have the MOS of Armorer and pay for others to do the work they were allegedly trained for!:rolleyes:
    So god only knows why they do not use something like the Mobile 1 formulas which produces a large quantity of great lubrication at much less cost. To put is simply, it has stood the test of time for us in the Academy. And with literally thousand and thousands of rounds in our AR-15/16 Carbine Certification and tactical Schools. And has been used for over a period of many years.
    But it will not bake off and also helps to eliminate the build up of carbon.
    The only thing is it doesn't smell the best! But most lubes do not either!;)

    03
     
  15. JimRau

    JimRau Well-Known Member Supporter

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    I spent 5 years active and 8 years in the NG and I can tell you that just becasue it's 'military' don't mean it is the right or best. We would say ' There is the right way and the wrong way, then there is the ARMY way'!!!;) But I use the SYN Motor oil', and have for MANY years, and have never had a problem with it. If you research it will see it has some the very highest 'film strength' of all lubes available. :cool:
     
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  16. SGWGunsmith

    SGWGunsmith Well-Known Member Supporter

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    For many years I worked for a company that does military procurement parts for the Army, Navy and Marine Corps. Each contract included a "certification packet" that had to be adhered to exactly as written. I was certified by GDLP ( General Dynamics Land Projects ) and issued an inspectors number so I could sign off on the finished products we made, and all of the inspection paperwork done as the parts were produced. Then, an inspector from the contract provider would come along and we'd sit down and go over all the certifications we provided. This even involved the "chemical composition certs" of the raw steel used and required in the contract.
    All specifications required in each contract are done by a bunch of "higher-ups" with a bunch of little gold stars on their shoulder boards, who decide what's best, whether they actually know what's best, or not.
    [​IMG]
    Page 2-18 Bolt Carrier Assembly Lubrication All items Lubricate using CLP ( item 6, app D ). Wonder what a DI would do if he saw a can of Mobil 1 sitting on one's foot locker?
    I know, there indeed are other choices and better methods to use, in fact, I had one of my customers ask me if I could get some EEZOX sent off to his son serving in the Middle East sandboxes. He told me that those guys needed to pull the doors off Hum-V's, like every couple of weeks to remove the fine dust over there from the hinges. They tried some EEZOX and nothing sticks to that CLP, and after treatment, they didn't need to pull the doors off but only after 9 months or so. Many use the EEZOX on their weapons rather than Break-Free.
    I have no way to refute what he told me, but I did ship a case of EEZOX to his son and thanked him and his group for their service. Far as I know, he wasn't stood before a firing squad. Reminds of those times when cleaning rods for AR's were sent from the home front. :)
     
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  17. Riveter

    Riveter New Member

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    CARBURETOR CLEANER is best suited for soot cleaning.
    And the use of acids (like vinegar) and alkalis (like ammonium) can wash away the blackening from steel parts.
    Coca-Cola works well, but can also wash away blackening.

    All depends on the nature of blackening.

    Engine oils are optimal for lubrication. It doesn't seem to matter, but synthetics seem better than mineral because they are less prone to burning.

    Basic requirements, grease MUST be neutral.
    The grease should NOT thicken too much in the cold.
    The grease must NOT become too fluid due to heat.

    It is better to choose individually, but basically, all-weather motor synthetics can be recommended.

    PS Yes.
    In any case, DO NOT pour grease into the weapon.
    It is enough to wipe the rubbing surfaces with a damp cloth or brush in oil.

    PPS “Drying Lubricants” containing Teflon or Molybdenum is the best for automatic weapons.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2020
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  18. SGWGunsmith

    SGWGunsmith Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Ever get a GOOD whiff of OK Weber's Sweets 7.62? Will clear your sinus' in a nano-second. Lots of ammonia in it, and makes for a great copper wash remover for bores. Hasn't hurt any bluing in my experience.
    I also use 50/50 mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide on lead fouled barrels and suppressor baffles and washers, bluing still there even after using it on the fine S&W Model 27 revolvers bluing. I must not have received that memo. Coca Cola? That goes better with Bacardi Limon. :)
     
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  19. Mcsorleyprobert

    Mcsorleyprobert Active Member

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    Always used Mobil 1 synthetic, great stuff a quart will last years.
    I also use M-pro-7 lube and bore gel, good stuff.

    The favorite used is “Archoil” cleaner and lube. GREAT STUFF!
     
  20. Riveter

    Riveter New Member

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    The hand of a highly graduated professional is felt.
    First give free cleaning advice.
    And then help repair the damage.
    But already for the money ... LOL