Looking for opinions

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by alucas2006, Nov 22, 2012.

  1. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    Hello everyone, Thank you for taking the time to at least look at this. First off, I am a brand new member and haven't found what I am looking for reguarding what I'm looking to do.

    I have a marlin 336 30/30 with a badly pitted barrel. It went through a flood and I recently cleaned it and it functions well, however accuracy is just on paper at 50yd, and I don't know where it's going at 100.

    I'd like to continue using the gun because it was free, but can't see footing the cost to have the barrel replaced, or even doing it myself since for just a couple or few more hundreds I could just buy a brand new one.

    I'm not a professional smith, and honestly havn't been into guns much before this past year, but I do consider myself very mechanically inclined and I've learned a lot over the past year and would love to get into smithing with this as my first major project.

    I'd like to slug a clean part of the barrel and slowly lap it out to 357(nominaly), then slug the chamber and lap only the neck and the section just ahead of it (which I keep wanting to call the forcing cone) to esentially create at 3030/357 hybrid wildcat.

    Can I get opinions on this? I wouldn't mind loading the rounds (as I already do so for many calibers), and I feel this would solve a couple problems I have.
     
  2. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    You want to create a 35 Remington.....pretty much. Yes its possible. Not a project advisable for a beginning smith. Swing by the inteo section and tell us a bit about yourself as well mon ami
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2012

  3. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    Essentiall yes, similar to a 35rem, but with the smaller case, and lower pressure capacities of the 3030 case. I was thinking if I turned down some bushings to run a rod through it would keep the rod off the barrel and the slug straight. Out of curiosoty, why would you advise against it? I know it would take a few days total to lap 49 hundreths out of it, and I might loose more material from the lands than grooves, but what other issues might I run into?
     
  4. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    Getting the bore out of sink causing wobble, taking WAY to much out of the lands to give proper spin/stabalization and I wouldn't advise it bc iv had to fix other people's "I can do this myself" fubars.
     
  5. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    personally i see quite a few problems with it. do you have a lathe? what are your machining skills? are you planning on removing the barrel? have you thought about reloading dies?

    for all the trouble to do it correctly, you would be much better off buying another barrel or even a barrel blank and making one.

    personally i see project that will not ever even be as accurate as what you have now, if it doesn't blow up in your face. my best advice, would be to buck up and pay a real gunsmith to rebarrel it, or just hang it up on the wall and leave it be.
     
  6. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    I can understand that. How much do you think, or any experienced smith, it might cost to have this done? I don't mind trying a failing because a few smiths have told me with the barrel the way it is, it's no better than a paper weight. I appreciate your advise. What kind of tools are required to keep the bore straight?
     
  7. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    To axxe55: My skills are mainly automotive bassed. I've rebuilt and swapped engines and have access to a lathe. I don't feel the cost of replacing or even having a barrel made would be worth it. Since it won't hit paper at 100you yards, I figure I can't do much worse. I'm not trying to build a 1000yd700 rifle, or even 500. The farthest it will probably be shot is 300. I'm just looking for something to do with it other than put it in a case for show or let it die in the safe (my other two options). Since it's such a cheap rifle, and mine was free, I just can't see putting more than it's worth into it.

    As far as dies, if I can open a bore, I can open a die also. Loading for it wouldn't be my concern.
     
  8. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    first would be to have the barrel bored out and then rifled. you said it would only be .049 of an inch is correct, but look at it on a dial caliper. huge change in the bore! would need a proper lather to bore it out straight and true and then it would need to be rifled. all of which are very specialized and very expensive equipment. definately not the job for a budding DIY gunsmith.

    find a gunsmith in your area and find out if they would simply just replace the barrel with an OEM barrel from Marlin. or maybe even a replacement barrel in 35 Rem. if you want something different.

    if, and that's a huge if you were to get it done, you mentioned reloading as it would be a wildcat, what about reloading dies? yes a set of custom dies can be made, but they are going to be very expensive and take a while to be made. what about reloading data? what powders to use and what charge weight to stay in safe pressure ranges for the chamber and bore.
     
  9. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i have over 35 years in the automotive trades as a technician and can tell you working on cars is much different than machining parts on firearms. the tolerances on a lathe that's used for automotive work and one used to machine parts for a firearm are much more critical. much more critical and less room for variance.

    just get and OEM barrel and have it installed. the rifle was free, so you would be out the cost of a barrel and a gunsmith to install it. much cheaper and safer in the long run.
     
  10. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    Where are you located alucas? Cuz I know at least ome good smith in almost every state. I know several in mo. Myself included. The cost for a smith to do it is varied on the smith.
     
  11. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    Again, I appreciate all of your advice and I think I'll leave it alone for now and see if I come accross a good deal on a barrel. It's still got me thinking though.

    As far as dies, I'd bore out the neck of 3030 myself or just get neck bushings in the right size.
    For reloading data I'd probanly start just below the starting loads for 3030 and work up watching for signs of max pressure, but I probably wouldn'mt exceed max for 3030.

    Thanks again for all of your imput
     
  12. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    I'm located in tx, close to houston. I don't know any around here personally, just spoken with a few from some stores around me. I the most of what the do is swap and fit parts. I havn't heard any of them talk much about major mods they've done.
     
  13. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    With a piloted drill bit you could drill out the barrel and install a barrel liner.
     
  14. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    Barrel liners have a 50-75% failure rating for a good reason. They are a cheap non safe way of doing it. Especially on a wildcat rifle.
     
  15. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    I admit that I never did a center-fire liner but I have done dozens of 22 liners and they work great.
     
  16. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    22 has NOWHERE the power nor the heat of a centerfire. Iv seen 3 out of 5 liners put in guns blow out.....iv seen 10 linered guns if you count rimfires.
     
  17. alucas2006

    alucas2006 New Member

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    I don't know if I would want to do a sleeve if it were not threaded or bonded in a way that thermal expansion and contraction wouldn't effect it. (<<<< badly woorded sentence) I don't know much about them though. With engines we sleeve cylinders with a few thousanths of interfearence, heat the block, freeze the sleeves, bond them with special locktite and there is still no gurentee that they won't work loose. I can't imagine it being any better with a barrel.
     
  18. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    It isn't. Its actually a better guarantee to work on engine blocks.
     
  19. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    the principal idea is about the same. i equate them about the same. if you have a car you were restoring and it was a numbers matching car, then to me sleeving the block is an alternative that makes sense in a restoration type application in keeping the value of the car intact. the same with a firearm, to me. if the firearm is of sentimental value and someone still wanted to use it, then maybe lining the barrel might be an alternative.

    that particular rifle should be able to be rebarreled pretty easily. like i said, talk to a gunsmith and see what it would cost. might even call Marlin and see if they would rebarrel it.
     
  20. Marlinman

    Marlinman New Member

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    They should. It'd take anywheres from 2 days to a week for me to barrel it. It would all just depend on what kind of barrel it is and the work I would have to do to it.