I tested that. I am using a 2 rail setup on my front tower sight. I thought "maybe the rails are not aligned with the barrel" and I tried to adjust them a little. It didnt help.
But bottom line, when I adjusted the original laser using the wiered 3 screw system the laser did not move much at all, so even if the rail wasnt stright, the adjustments didnt work anyway.
Also I would prefer a green laser (powerful) as it is easier to see in the daylight, and if anyone has any experiance with one they trust I would appreciate any recomendations.
Here's a hint; NO laser, save some gub-mint satellite-melting weapons-grade unit works in daylight. If you mean low-light, dusk etc, the green may have some advantage seeing wise, but remember that visibility works both ways! Green lasers are extremely easy to back follow allowing the BG's to target you!
When you hard mount the laser to the rail do you pay attention to the indexing diagram on the output end of the unit?
If yes, forget about that step. Make sure your adjustment screws are centered (equal adjustment available in + & - direction for each axis) and finger tighten the mounting rings.
NOTE: set your target distance to what you expect to shoot, read: if the laser is going to be used for clearing rooms, don't set the target distance during set-up at 50' when the weapon's intended use is <15'. (See later note.)
When you do your initial sight-in,
and before you touch the adjustment screws, try twisting the laser module to find the closest position to bulls eye. (This is much easier when using a bore laser in conjunction with the new laser module.) Then tighten the mounting rings. REMOVE the bore laser and throw your first round down range. Now walk the rounds in while using the adjustment screws. Shoot a minimum of three (more to achieve greater accuracy) rounds before making the next adjustment. Work one axis at a time; otherwise you will be chasing your tail! Once the vertical or horizontal is dialed in, move to the other and walk it in till you get it right. (The opposite
will change) When this axis is on mark then switch back to the other and start over. You must do this, as many times as it takes to get it right!
Later note:
This will save your life, pay attention.
First, keep the laser protected as you would with any optics. Retains accuracy, and be sure to keep fresh batteries! Do not long store with batteries installed!
Here’s the really important part. Now that you have the laser dialed in, let me teach you the true meaning of parallax. Changing nothing other than target distance, and reinstalling the bore site-laser, move the target 10’ down range and put the sighting laser on the bulls eye and look where the bore laser is located! Write it down! Now move the target another 10’ down range, and record the change. If you do not have a bore laser, throw a round down range at each distance change, when you walk to the target to change to the next distance, mark each hit with what distance was shot. Depending on your rail type and where on the rifle you mount the laser, you will have empirical data showing the parallax at greater/less than set up target distance.
Memorize and practice adjusting the laser dot location with distances other than set-up.
It could save your life by providing a hit with adapting rather than a miss!
