Lets talk Bows !

Discussion in 'Other Weapons' started by dango, Mar 1, 2012.

  1. dango

    dango Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I really don't know much about them but would like to. The compound cross bows are the one's caught my eye.
    Enlighten me please ?
     
  2. kryptar19

    kryptar19 New Member

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    If you are old, under 14, or crippled then crossbows are for you. ;)

    If you are none of those get a compound.

    But if you dnt want training wheels get a traditional bow.

    I shoot a recurve bow.

    So what all are you wanting to know?
     

  3. dango

    dango Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporter

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    First off,glad to meet you .

    Prices-what to what $'s

    Brand and why ?

    Max draw weight , Am recovering from some surgery but by next season i
    should be fine. Foot sterup or fullcrum if I have to?

    I have shot recurve 60lb. Bear long time ago.

    Price of bolts , strings,sites,etc. ?
     
  4. MrsSwaff

    MrsSwaff New Member

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    You should check out the archery talk forums, there's a lot of good information over there. I've learned a lot just by going through old threads. I'm saving up money to get my first bow, I found a nice recurve at a locel store for $120, I'm super excited!
     
  5. kryptar19

    kryptar19 New Member

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    I've been shooting bows since I was 12 or so and I suggest hoyt bows for crossbows. Their bonecollector series is one of the best crossbows on the market and its not that expensive. If you wax you're strings regularly they will last a long time.
    As far as sights go, a 4x scope is probably the best thing for them.

    Nothing makes you as happy as a traditional bow does though. I ended up selling my $500 compound rig cuz I only shot my recurve.
     
  6. dango

    dango Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I did have a piece a crap Barnett cross bow but the way the string rode the bolt guide it ate string for dinner.I used to buy ten packs.
    And thanks for the info.....
     
  7. gunguy1997

    gunguy1997 New Member

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    been into bows for a few years now im 14 and i shoot an old bear whitetail 2 at 45 pound and thats not much but i hunt with it and its what i could afford at the time anything you need to know about compound bows you can pm me and im willing to elaborate
     
  8. blucoondawg

    blucoondawg New Member

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    I just picked up a Mission Venture in October, havent shot it alot yet but it's a massive step up from my old Golden Eagle. Hoyt, Matthews, and Mission are good names, there are others as well, Mission is like the economy line of Matthews.
     
  9. NC1760

    NC1760 New Member

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    My son and I are reenactors (Colonial era), trekkers and traditionalist. Check these guys out;
    http://www.woodbows.com/
     
  10. PrimePorkchop

    PrimePorkchop New Member

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    I've been bowhunting for a very long time now, but im still no expert.

    If you want my opinion - get a compound bow and go with PSE.

    Recurve bows, in my opinion, are for when you've mastered a compound because a recurve takes a lot more skill to hit your target.

    Check out the PSE Bow Madness XS. It's what I shoot, and I love it. You're going to want to know a lot more than "What bow should I get" because equally important are arrows, broadheads, sights, and misc other little things that really add up.

    How much $$ you spend depends on how serious you're going to take it.

    You can get a field ready Bow Madness XS for $699.00 (click here) --- but side note, you'll want the 70#...50# just isnt worth it...even if you have to work up to 70, you'll want to be shooting 70 in the end.

    But, in this guys opinion, you're getting horrible quality accessories. It's better to buy a bare bow and add your own accessories.

    There's an enormous discussion to be had if you're just starting to get into archery, so perhaps its' best to start at the beginning and ask what it is you're aiming to do?

    Hunting, Recreation, Competition, etc.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  11. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I have to disagree on the 70# bow , its unneeded unless your hunting large large game like moose , I killed 2 deer last yr with 58# both pass thrus and 4 deer the yr before with 55# all pass thrus but one and it was becuase it was a spine shot directly under me . The new bows are so fast you dont need all that extra weight to generate the speed of a 70# bow from 3 yrs ago , they are smoother drawing and much faster than they were 3 yrs ago . Lots of technology and R&D out there in bows now
    Why have to hold all that weight waiting on a deer to come in when 55-60# will more than get the job done and you may be able to hold that weight another 2-3 minutes instead of 45 seconds . Been there on that one and it didnt turn out to my benefit . Bowtech , PSE, Hoyt, Martin , PSE, Mathews , are all great bows . I shot alot of competition up til last yr and I will be gatting back into the swing of it here in another 2 weeks our 3D season starts back up here quickly and I will be going to a couple big tourneys again this season
     
  12. PrimePorkchop

    PrimePorkchop New Member

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    With the leftoff of modern bows, holding it back is not a challenge. I've never once ran into that problem. I train for long draws in the first place to condition myself. I am willing to trade a longer training session for a higher poundage. The bowmadness xs has a 75% let off...so the difference is holding back 17.5 pounds or 15 pounds. If you choose the 15 pounds, you're sacrificing feet-per-second for 2.5 pounds... It's worth it - to me - to have a higher poundage but YMMV

    The point of higher poundage is not for a harder hit on bigger game, it's for a faster traveling arrow. With 2-3 feet per second per draw pound, it adds up fast.
    Better technology makes for a greater amount of FPS per pound, and that is equally contingent on your arrow composition. So regardless of anything, a higher poundage will always equal a greater FPS, and a greater FPS is always a deadlier shot

    In other words, the lower poundage, the better chance you have for a deer ducking your shot.

    That's why I shoot 70#
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  13. blucoondawg

    blucoondawg New Member

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    generally 1 pound of weight equals 2 fps, in the bow world I say if you are able and can shoot accurately with it, use the highest weight you can. If you don't feel comfortable holding the 70 then by all means go lighter. I want every bit of speed I can get out of an arrow, even if only hunting deer, I've had them jump or duck under arrows before, I say the faster your bow is the less likely that is, you want a quiet bow for that reason as well but speed doesn't hurt
     
  14. purehavoc

    purehavoc New Member

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    I do all my own tuning here in my shop , I had a real nice speed bow 61# max , 29.5" DL shooting 348 fps . fastest 60# bow I ever had . Yes higher poundage will always make them faster but not worth it to me , 95% of the time faster is always louder .
     
  15. PrimePorkchop

    PrimePorkchop New Member

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    Good point there, it does have more noise, but i'd be interested to conduct a study in how much noise it actually equates to...a deer has extremely sensitive hearing as im sure you know...so if its only minimal then i'd argue its not worth the sacrifice (at least to me)

    A good tool for measuring these types of factors is here (what I use)

    http://backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/calc/

    obviously - real world application with a chronograph is the only way to know for sure.


    But, as bluecoondawg points out - it's all personal preference. It's not a matter of machismo if you shoot 60 or 70, it's a matter of preference and really makes no difference as long as you're killing deer. (or shooting bullseyes)

    These are important factors to consider when selecting a bow, ones the OP should take to heart so he's not stuck with a bow that feels too slow, or that is too much to hold back.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2012
  16. PrimePorkchop

    PrimePorkchop New Member

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    Very true. Also another thing to keep in mind is don't buy a 70# bow and shoot it at 60# (unless you're training up to 70, then its fine)

    If you want a 60#er, buy a 60# max. A 70 pound bow set to 60 does not shoot the same as a 60 pound bow at max.
     
  17. Muliemaster

    Muliemaster New Member

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    PSE STANDS FOR PULL SHOOT EXPLODE, go with a Mathews an dont look back. I shoot the new Mathews Helim as well as a Mathews MR6, smookin fast an smooth as butter, like they saw catch us if u can, also note I did shoot pse as well as hoyt an bowtech, none of them can hold ground to the quality an inovation of a mathews. Archery is like ford dodge chevy debate it never ends.
     
  18. md1911

    md1911 New Member

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    I have a black widow in 60# draw. I love it. However I have a hand made recurve made by a friends dad it has a 75# pull and I hunt and take deer with it every year. Last winter I took a elk in colorado with my recurve. I use hand made arrows (wood and simple broad head tips) I absolutly love the recurve.
     
  19. Muliemaster

    Muliemaster New Member

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    So what bow was it shootin 348 at 61# 29.5 I sure would like to know becouse 35 yrs of archery an about every flagship bow I have either shot or owned from hoyt, bowtech, mathews, high country, pse, strothers ect has never been any where near that speed
     
  20. Muliemaster

    Muliemaster New Member

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    Any critter taken with a recure or longbow is a true trophy, good job on the elk