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Discussion Starter #1
Hello people, i've been in a design frenzy since no kits exist for modding sporterized enfields into more of a modern look... all i found were the monte carlo kits but i don'T like the look of it... that and a kit from serval tactial gear for the no4's that was pretty much what i was thinking but i wasn'T sure it would fit the no1 mkIII...

all that to say that i've been thinking of having a 3d printed kit in fiberglass reinforced polymer (polyamide 6.6) and i was wondering if it's a good idea to make all the kit that way if it's following the idea of the STG kit but with a different style fot the handguard (still free floating but just different in design) and a different style of stock adapter made to fit ar-15 style stocks... the STG kit is all aluminum by the way

thanks for looking :)
 

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If you have the means to 3D print it and design it I’d go for it. Just make sure the run time is set to max to get the best print quality. However, I’d always be careful with doing anything that requires threads as they won’t be as strong as tapped or died threads. Also some 3D printing softwares are kinda funky to get threads to print.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you have the means to 3D print it and design it I’d go for it. Just make sure the run time is set to max to get the best print quality. However, I’d always be careful with doing anything that requires threads as they won’t be as strong as tapped or died threads. Also some 3D printing softwares are kinda funky to get threads to print.
good point for the threads! i'd probably just have them tapped if i get to it.. a end cap for the floating guard would be a must i think for for finishing things in a good way...
 

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good point for the threads! i'd probably just have them tapped if i get to it.. a end cap for the floating guard would be a must i think for for finishing things in a good way...
Yes. Make a hole in the print software to the minor diameter of the tap and then go to town with it. However I have never done this operation before with 3D printed part I’ve only tapped aluminum and steel. I mostly print with plastics and they are a lot weaker than polymer so it should stand up the the stress of being tapped since it’s polymer.
 

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ok so my friend passed away about a month ago unfortunately so the project will go slower. no one knows what happenned so it really sucks as it was an awesome guy who was not afraid to try things and give pointers whenever he could so yeah... other than that a guy in new brunswick offered to play with softwares to make the 3d rendering of the adaptor and he told me that he tried many things so fingers crossed... meanwhile this is my rifle and this shorty pistol grip is considered in making a pistol grip with stock added... i just don'T know how the hell i'm going to pull it off and if i should use some kind of aluminium for the metal part and just use the same type of wood as the forend and handguards...(possibly walnut)
DSC04964.JPG
50843490_762465844110536_5664721581755072512_n.png
 

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Discussion Starter #7
forgot to add that i'm trying to see if a semi custom walnut kit for the forend and hand guard could be made to mimick a no5 but with a longer style to accomodate the full 25'' barrel (so it won't feel too out of place ratio wise)
 

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Like painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa.
 

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As a collector of old military Mausers, several well over 100 years old, I'd be too ashamed to show up at my range with any of that.:(

Shame.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
if this has been done to one of them in the past i see no reason why it would be bad to do what i want with mine ^^' i mean... it's not like i plan to drill the hell out of the components... the parts added can be switched for the antique stuff if need be can't they?
 

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Hello people, i've been in a design frenzy since no kits exist for modding sporterized enfields into more of a modern look... all i found were the monte carlo kits but i don'T like the look of it... that and a kit from serval tactial gear for the no4's that was pretty much what i was thinking but i wasn'T sure it would fit the no1 mkIII...

all that to say that i've been thinking of having a 3d printed kit in fiberglass reinforced polymer (polyamide 6.6) and i was wondering if it's a good idea to make all the kit that way if it's following the idea of the STG kit but with a different style fot the handguard (still free floating but just different in design) and a different style of stock adapter made to fit ar-15 style stocks... the STG kit is all aluminum by the way

thanks for looking :)
You used a 3D printer to make the parts of this gun? Where did you get the program to properly measure the exterior of each part? Or did you have to program it yourself?
 

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if this has been done to one of them in the past i see no reason why it would be bad to do what i want with mine ^^' i mean... it's not like i plan to drill the hell out of the components... the parts added can be switched for the antique stuff if need be can't they?
It's your rifle, I just cringe at altered history. Knowing Chainy I know he feels the same way. No telling where it's been. At least you weren't the one that bubba'd it originally. To each his own.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You used a 3D printer to make the parts of this gun? Where did you get the program to properly measure the exterior of each part? Or did you have to program it yourself?
i haven'T 3d printed it, that kit is from a company called serval tactical gear but it was only for a test run since they made a similar kit for more modern rifles based on that one. as far as the adapter i want, i'll probably have to get it machined... probably in 7xxx series aluminium. someone is still making a cad file for that but it will probably take a while since he's doing that in his spare time. i'm hoping to put a wooden ar style grip probably walnut at that point since i can find repro forend and all in walnut.. aiming for a jungle ish style carbine with modern components as well... will probably torch the walnut to have a black finish and cover it with a satin epoxy finish...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
decking-final-demensions.jpg
had the idea today of trying to use the grip frame style of a 1911 in the design... thought it would be nice... now i have to figure out a way to put the grip closer to the trigger because the way i drafted it fast on paint it's a little far from the trigger and i really want to have the feel of a 1911 in trigger placement if i can... let me know what you guys think... of course i know purists will probably shun it and it's perfectly fine! i'm open to any kind of opinions :) just thought it would give a nice ''allied'' theme to the rifle. oh and i was wondering if the action could be fitted to a modern barrel, i know you will probably ask why since a barrel will cost way more than a full rifle but i heard somewhere that the rifle's barrel is not quite to today's standard in term of rigidity and all so mixing the awesome buttery smooth action with a modern made barrel was just a fool's idea of mine :p so yeah just tell me if it works LOL!
 

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did what i could with a mirror of the image and reducing the size... pistol grip is fuzzy though... View attachment 232774
Interesting concept. Destroyed history aside... (don't fret, there were millions made, I've got grief for modifying mine) that top rail looks rather high to me, like it's on the wood. Not sure that would end up being very stable for keeping a good zero on an optic. (unless you're gonna print an entire new fore end out of something more stable) I did a remake on my No 4 Mk 1. Kinda along the same lines as your idea, a modern version of a Lee Enfield combat rifle. (I shortened mine) However, I had a mount made for the barrel. I then relieved the rear top wood for the mount to poke up through. It keeps zero well. I'll show you a photo so the collectors can shame me for destroying a piece of history...

1 Lee Enfirld Battle Rifle on wood pile.JPG
 

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It's not that millions were made it's where that particular piece of history may have been. Sword Beach, Paris, Arnhem.

Again it's his rifle and he wasn't the one that butchered it originally.
 
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