kimber zero malfunctions, ruger 11 malfunctions.

Discussion in '1911 Forum' started by DarinCraft, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. DarinCraft

    DarinCraft New Member

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    Went to the range with my brother and his ruger 1911 my kimber custom 2. Went through a 17 round ipsc style course 12 times each. I did not have a single malfunction. My brothers ruger had one if not two malfunctions per course except one. Malfunctions range from fte, stove pipe, to light primer strikes. Anyone had these problems? He was using factory mags, but later switched to my 47d. Had less problems but still had some.
     
  2. Fathead00

    Fathead00 New Member

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    I haven't had a single problem with my SR1911. I've put a few hundred rounds through mine.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2013

  3. JW357

    JW357 New Member

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    Good lord that's a lot of ammo. I wish I could shoot that much at one time.
     
  4. qwiksdraw

    qwiksdraw New Member

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    Try running a course or two with each other's gun. It may be the shooter.
     
  5. DarinCraft

    DarinCraft New Member

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    I'll give it a shot. I would hope it is not the shooter. He is a firearms instructor for Fresno PD and considered expert marksman. Not saying he could not have problems, it is possible.

    On a side note, I think it's funny with all the anti Kimber stuff out there, my gun has never had a problem and after running that many rounds the thing was filthy. Not grit, no nothing...smooth as silk.
     
  6. DarinCraft

    DarinCraft New Member

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    UPDATE:

    Ok I just found out my brother changed the mainspring, recoil spring, grip safety, mag release, and slide stop. So it is possible, probably very possible that the malfunctions were a result of the lighter mainspring and recoil spring.

    This brings me to another question. Lighter spring equals faster slide speed. Faster slide should strip the case better, right?
     
  7. qwiksdraw

    qwiksdraw New Member

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    It could be possible the slide is moving faster than the magazine can feed the next round. As I understand the gun's cycling, it's more important the systems being in sync than being fast.

    Your brother should try the factory spring again.
     
  8. Rick1967

    Rick1967 Well-Known Member

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    It seems like every time I hear about someone having a problem with just about any brand of 1911...it is after they did mods to it. The 1911 is normally a very reliable gun...even the cheap ones. A good cleaning can greatly improve reliability as well.
     
  9. SSGN_Doc

    SSGN_Doc Well-Known Member

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    Lighter spring will give faster rearward slide speed but slower return to battery and less force for stripping rounds from the mag.

    The only real reason to go to a lighter recoil spring is lighter loads.
     
  10. pass42

    pass42 New Member

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    I have the kimber ultra covert II and I love it. Comes with laser sights in the grips and it is very accurate. Had to pay top dollar but I think it was worth every penny.
     
  11. deadsp0t

    deadsp0t New Member

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    Had a Ruger P345, had lots of light strikes.. I sold it without hesitation..
    Had a few fail to feeds with my CDP, but only with two cheap mags and a Kimber mag..
    Put 100's through my Wilson mag.. Zero issues
     
  12. DarinCraft

    DarinCraft New Member

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    it seems that the speed of the slide does have something to do with it. The problem is he did a bunch of research on the net and was advised to change his spring pressures to lighten up the trigger pull and improve reliability. Turns out that advice was most likely wrong. Now we need to put the factory springs back in it and blow through another $100 in ammo to test it out.

    Thanks guys
     
  13. DrFootball

    DrFootball disappointed & disgusted, But DETERMINED... Lifetime Supporter

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    Ruger Problems?? Really??

    Thats funny, We have 5 Rugers' in this House(SR9,LC9, DW's SP101 & The 5" Bull Barrel Secuity Six my Dad carried as a duty gun in the 1970's-he was a U.S. Postal Service Cop) Plus a 10/22 thats 20+ years old and has never had a misfire...since buying the SR9 & LC9 last summer i have had a total of 3 Jams,..all with either factory reloads or JHP's in the LC(in which they rec. only factory ball ammo). Hope the OP's Relative puts back the factory springs...
    The 'Smith I took my SR9 to to look at said "no trigger job needed-just get used to the heavier pull of a DAO trigger...
     
  14. The recoil spring has nothing to do with the trigger. It only returns the slide. The mainspring also has nothing to do with the trigger, it operates the hammer through the hammer strut. The firing pin spring also has nothing to do with the trigger.

    The sear spring (three leaf, flat spring) can have an affect on the trigger. However, unless you are trained or practiced in adjusting the sear spring - leave it alone. You can make the pistol unsafe if you don't know how to adjust the sear spring.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2013
  15. Fathead00

    Fathead00 New Member

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    You guys should just return it back to all factory parts and it WILL work fine!!
     
  16. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Active Member

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    Are both handguns well broke in?? If so and the ruger has been reliable then it ammo . If both are new then your ammo my not run well in his pistol. Allways have backup ammo to try.
     
  17. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    Generally speaking, changing spring weights creates reliabilty problems.

    90% of trigger problems can be fixed with proper stoning and using molybednum grease.

    It is very common for just a good stoning job to drop pull weights by half. Many times you can come in around 3 lbs with moly grease and polish.

    This isn't something I am recommending for a do it yourself job, if you get it wrong it ain't safe.
     
  18. DarinCraft

    DarinCraft New Member

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    Needless to say I would not have posted this question if I would have known he changed the mainspring and recoil spring. Kind of disappointed he did. He's an internet research junkie and I guess he was told the mainspring would reduce trigger pull and changing the recoil to 20# would increase reliability. He's convinced it's not the springs and will not change. So I have to just sit back.
     
  19. Overkill0084

    Overkill0084 Active Member

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    Any info on how it ran before it was "improved?" People need to quit fixing stuff that ain't broke, especially with new 1911s.
    Better trigger? Pay a smith for a trigger job. They're cheaper than you think. Do this BEFORE changing the mainspring. You may not feel the need to screw with the mainspring with a really good trigger job.
    Recoil springs? Is there a problem to be addressed? If so, order the appropriate calibration pack from Wolff and get it sorted before moving on to other parts.
    Slide stop - may require fitting for reliable function i.e. slide locking back.
    Grip safety & mag release - Fitted correctly, shouldn't be an issue.
    Lighter (I assume) Mainspring? - Light strikes anyone?
    Like modding everything from computers to motorcycles...one part at a time so there is only one variable to deal with.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
  20. triggerjob

    triggerjob New Member

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    The mainspring has little to do with trigger pull on a 1911, but it will cause light primer hits. The recoil spring has nothing to do with trigger pull either, but generally a lighter recoil spring shouldn't cause stove pipes, a heavier one could though.

    The flat spring\sear spring can be manually adjusted to change trigger pull wieghts, but generally after a sear polish you tighten that spring up to prvent doubles. Believe it or not the wieght of the trigger alone has enough enertia to make the gun double if the flat spring is made too light.

    Anyway, it sounds like he got bad internet advice ;-(