Firearms Talk banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up my K98k this afternoon. When I got it of course they shipped it with the bolt out of the gun and wrapped up in bubble wrap. I'm having trouble getting the bolt back into place. The saftey lever is stuck in the far left position and I can't get it to move. How do I get the saftey lever to move again and what position does the safety lever have to be in to re-insert the bolt into position?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,619 Posts
Interesting problem. I don't have one, but the '03 Springfield is supposed to be a ripoff, er, a clone of the Mauser so perhaps the safety lever needs to be between the safe and fire positions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea the Springfield 1903 mechanics is suppose to be a direct copy of Peter and Paul Mausers design. Springfield pretty much copied the locking lug design and made it their own rifle in what is now the famous 1903 Springfield.

I got onto surplus rifles website and read over the whole thing then tried it for myself. It took forever before I finally got it right and trust me I'll NEVER make that mistake again. It was a huge pain to pull back the sear and twist the bolt shield to uncock it. I practically went through the ceiling when I finally got the bolt back into position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok here are the pictures.


Stand up shot


Side view of gun and Reich eagle markings.


Side view of gun again and close up of Reich eagle markings.


Side top view of manf date and arsenal markings on reciever
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

Top view of manf date and arsenal markings on reciever, bolt handle and on safety


View of barrel, barrel bands and cleaning rod


laying down compleate view of gun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea I know. I was detemined to get one with a cleaning rod. Overall the gun is in good condition. The metal is pretty good. It was rated by the dealer at about 60% bluing with slight patina mix. Thats just about right to me after looking over all the metal parts once I got the gun. The bluing on the barrel and reciever is in pretty good shape. It has a few patches of patina here and there but overall the bluing is still pretty nice after 60 years. The trigger and trigger guard and floor plate are in the worst shape. The bluing is pretty much compleatly gone and its all patina. There is no pitting though so I can live with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Hi to get the bolt back in place pull the trigger and slide it in, to remove, pull trigger and take out.
Hope to have helped
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
To avoid a fiasco here, remember to keep the bolt cocked for removal and replacement, but you do not have to pull the trigger to remove a cocked bolt, you use the bolt release on the left rear portion of the action. And yes it is a pain in the butt to cock a bolt to replace it in the rifle as the party saw when he got his rifle. I have a severly Bubba'd K98 that I am going to donate to Stalkingbear for a caliber change / rebarrel. Why? I have no use for the 8mm / 7.92x57mm. I just hope the party that had the problem had a bench vise handy and some old rags or boards to wrap the bolt with to avoid marring. :D
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top