Jeep question

Discussion in 'The Club House' started by matt g, Oct 8, 2009.

  1. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    I know there are several Jeep guys on here and I'm not getting much info over at Jeep Forum, so I'm posing the question here.

    The carrier bearings in the Dana 30 on my '99 Cherokee **** the bed yesterday. I'm planning to pull the drive shaft, differential carrier and axle shafts. I'm then going to reinstall the stub shafts and carrier bearings, so I can still run the vehicle.

    My question is, am I going to be able to get the diff carrier out without using a case spreader or is a spreader absolutely necessary?
     
  2. mrm14

    mrm14 Active Member

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    If it is similar to the Dana 44 you can wiggle the carrier out with a couple of pry bars. Also note the thickness of the shims on both sides of carrier and replace exactly as they came out. The shims on both sides of the carrier determine the backlash of the ring and pinion. I assume you have a bearing splitter to remove the carrier bearings. If you have to remove the pinion gear you,ll need to get a new crush sleeve. Check the sides and spyders while your at it. If you lost the carrier bearings I hope the ring and pinion gears are O.K. It's been some years since I've rebuilt a Dana and I'm not sure if the Dana 30 will disassemble the same as the Dana 44, but I think it's close.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2009

  3. Kain

    Kain Member

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    Yes, you pretty much have to have the case spreader.
     
  4. ktmboyz

    ktmboyz New Member

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    AS MRM stated you can do it with a couple of bars and pop the carrier out. Its been a while since I've done a jeep one but do ford regularly, aluminum and cast housings.

    Yes its much easier with the spreader but you dont need it. I have used it once, but it always takes longer to find it and set it up IMO. Just hold a shim on each side of the carrier at a slight angle as you put it in. You have to kinda wedge it in as an assy. Don't put one shim then the carrier and try to tap the other shim in because you will prob crack or split it before it gets all the way in.
     
  5. spittinfire

    spittinfire New Member Supporter

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    Matt, I just pulled the gears out of a Jeep last weekend, Dana 30 and 44. You can get both out without using a case spreader. Would a spreader make it easier? Sure, but it's not required. I've done this with Dana 35s too.
    You can pop them out with a large screwdriver and tap them back in with a rubber deadblow or something. Just me smart about what you pry against and if you hurt a carrier with a rubber hammer you need to put all tools down immediately and walk away.
     
  6. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    Awesome, thanks for the help guys.
     
  7. cameronguyton

    cameronguyton New Member

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    If all else fails, oxyacetylene!




    :D
     
  8. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    The bearings are completely hosed. They almost took the shafts out when they went. The diff housing is cracked too.

    Looks like its time to start tearing into the '93.
     
  9. spittinfire

    spittinfire New Member Supporter

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    What the heck did you do to cause that kind of carnage???
     
  10. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    Drove it with the rattle for 3 months.

    I'm not sure what did the case damage but something was walking around quite a bit.
     
  11. spittinfire

    spittinfire New Member Supporter

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    I personally hate Jeeps. I got one when I married my wife. I've worked on several and haven't found anything about them I like. Good luck with the project!
     
  12. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    The only thing that I've found that limits my little Cherokees is ground clearance and the lack of lockers. I successfully took my '93 through things that I had no business trying in a stock rig. The worst was navigating down a 10 foot waterfall, where I spent most of the time on 2 or 3 wheels.

    My '93 was still in good running condition when I started to strip it for parts, even after over 200k miles. I pulled the head to begin tearing the motor out for a stroker build, only to find that the cross hatching in the cylinders was still present. The valve train and con rods were still in perfect condition, even after the engine had sucked water twice.

    My '93 was bullet proof. I have no idea why the '99 is falling apart, its been a pavement queen it's whole life.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2009
  13. cameronguyton

    cameronguyton New Member

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    You either love 'em or you hate 'em. I love my TJ and the 4.0L under the hood. I don't do enough off roading in it to justify spending the money right now to do an axle swap. Guess I'll deal with that when/if I ever break the Dana 35.
     
  14. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    When/if you look to upgrade your rear axle look for a late model XJ. The Chrysler 8.25 will come cheaper than a D44 and is arguably stronger than a Ford 8.8.

    It will take some fabrication skill to get it to work though.
     
  15. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper New Member

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    Matt are you sure your xj will drive with the front drive shaft disconnected? I know some of the older FSJ quadra-trac transfer cases wouldnt with shaft off due to the differential in the case. Not sure about what you've got.

    I love jeeps, About all my family owns are jeeps.
    The xj's are great runners and seem to run forever. About the only prob we've had with the 4.0 is rear seal starts to leak around 200k.

    My fav jeep is my 84 J10 shortbed with cut fenders 5in lift, 35in MTR's
    360, T18,Np208, D44 ft/D60 rr out of a J20.
    I built it to run 38-40in tires but need to regear and lock my 3.73 rearends first.
    Bodys now bad, either got a lot of bodywork to do or thinking about swapping whole drivetrain into a CJ or TJ
    Still looking for a 401AMC:cool:
    Did I mention I love Jeeps:rolleyes:
     
  16. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    The t-case in an NP242, which has a full time setting, but also a 2wd setting. When the t-case is in 2wd, the front isn't engaged. However, due to the unit bearing hub design, the front axle is always "engaged", like having your hubs locked in on a traditional hub style axle. Because of this, there is always a load on the front differential, as it is always engaged and turning.
     
  17. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper New Member

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    Just thought Id bring it up.
    My dad bought an older j10 a few years back. The guy said QT transfer case went out. Changed it and said that case was bad too. He never hooked up front driveshaft when he tried it. Dad got a smoking deal hooked up the front shaft and drove it home.
    Wasn't sure how the 242 was set up. Good to know.
     
  18. matt g

    matt g New Member Supporter

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    The carrier just fell right out, I didn't even need a pry bar. What I previously thought was a crack in the housing is just a minor casting imperfection where the cover bolts to the case. The wear on the axle shafts appears to be minor and caused by wearing on the axle seals. The axle seals look like someone took a jack hammer to them.

    The bearing are definitely hosed though, these pictures are of the long side bearings and race:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Sorry about them being so big, but low res pics just didn't do them justice.
     
  19. ktmboyz

    ktmboyz New Member

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    WOW those bearings are smoked huh. Prob why the carrier fell right out. By the looks of those I would be looking at the pinion bearings also.

    Did this thing run low on fluid for a while ??
     
  20. mrm14

    mrm14 Active Member

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    Definately check those pinion bearings if your going to rebuild this. You'll need to get a new crush sleeve for the pinion now. How does the ring and pinion gears look? Spyders and sides?