is it worth it

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by chip102, Aug 23, 2011.

  1. chip102

    chip102 New Member

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    Hey all.
    So a browsing my local gun shop and found a Marlin 60 for $79. The stock was solid but slightly beat up and the metal showed signs or early oxidation (blueing was a tad rough in spots and starting to wear off and some surface tarnish on the bolt that could be polished off). It seamed to be a over all solid rifle and from what I could see of the bore it looks to be ok. I dont know what the 60's usually go for so do you think $79 is a fair price?
     
  2. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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    Buy it!

    Don't think twice, buy it.

    I'm still shooting my M60 that I bought back in 1967!
     

  3. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    1. Run to store
    2. Push money into dealer's hands
    3. Run home
    4. Lock door

    Everything that you have described can be improved as a home workshop project. DO go to the Marlin website and get owner's manual before attempting to disassemble (you can thank me later)
     
  4. orangello

    orangello New Member

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    That is about what mine cost back in the early 1980's; it still runs fine. I did have to replace a lost front sight by installing some techsights.

    They forgot the step where you stop to buy ammo on the way home.


    There was a guy in the classifieds with one for $50, but i'm not sure if he was interested in shipping.
     
  5. Toll13

    Toll13 New Member

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    Forget what all these guys said. Don't buy it...can I have the store's address? ;-)
     
  6. jpattersonnh

    jpattersonnh Active Member

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    I bought one in the early '90's. Has a medialion showing the purchase supported the youth shooting sports. $110.00 at the time. Still runs perfectly.
     
  7. chip102

    chip102 New Member

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    Haha. Sorry i think im gonna keep this one for myself. looks like im camping out tomorrow morning till the store opens. They have a much nicer Glenfield 60 for 125 but it just didn't feel right when i held it. the stock wasn't that comfortable.
     
  8. chip102

    chip102 New Member

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    I bought it!! pics soon to come
     
  9. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

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  10. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Marlin 60's were sold under different names as "Store Brands"...hence the Western Auto 120 & Coast-To-Coast 600 & others...

    13 million Marlin 60 owners can't be wrong ;)

    A Trigger Job, Pillar Bedding, and a Spee-D-Loader will have you shooting better than 99.5% of the rimfire shooters at your local range...
    assuming you can do your part ;)
     
  11. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    The Marlin-Glenfield I bought new in 1977 still runs just fine. The alloy receiver has lost a perfect hold on the barrel , but it still shoots fine. I have probably fired close to 100,000 rounds through it :eek:
     
  12. redscho

    redscho New Member

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    Glenfield was a store brand as I recall (Montgomery Ward?) , It was made by Marlin. I hope you picked up the one you looked at $79.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2011
  13. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Ask yer local gunsmith how much he'd charge to reset the barrel with red loctite :D

    One can do it themselves...if they've got a headspace gauge...and a press...and some red loctite...and great big bahoogies!
     
  14. dteed4094

    dteed4094 New Member

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    Cane, you didn't tell him he would have to bust the stock in half to get it to look like that.
     
  15. big shrek

    big shrek Well-Known Member

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    Now, unless yer a Lefty, go getcha one of these Muzzellite Bullpup stocks and slap it on ;)
    [​IMG]

    But unlike the builder of the example in the above picture...slightly open up the tube mag hole so it'll fit right without pinching ;)
     
  16. chip102

    chip102 New Member

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    I'm no lefty but I do shoot lefty. Makes all the difference in my aim.
     
  17. steve666

    steve666 New Member

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    Glenfield is just Marlin's no frills, slightly lower grade finish brand.
    Below are the instructions I downloaded on how to do the Trigger Job. If you are handy at all it's really fairly simple.

    Instructions for Marlin Model 60 Trigger Job
    I just got done doing a home Model 60 trigger job and thought I'd share my experiences since everyone here probably owns one.

    By FAR the biggest difference for my gun was making sure the sear was square - it had a sharp curved edge which took me forever to figure out because I did the trigger job on rimfire central and still had a 20lb break. Mine breaks at a crisp 1.5lb now, I'll explain which mods you can alter to make it more 3lb (optimal).

    I used (If you want to do this yourself)
    ------
    1. Sandpaper - Wal-Mart 3M pack with 100, 150, 220 grit and in the AUTO section some of their 800 grit wet or dry paper for final smoothing.
    2. JB Weld - cold steel 2 tube set, takes 16 hours to cure
    3. A set of needle nose pliers
    4. A drill
    5. Some time

    First, here are the links to where I got all my information.

    Go to this link and download the file, do not open it as it is a slide show and does you no good. Open powerpoint > go to file > open > open the presentation from there. Now you can jump around and view the slides, and best of all you can print them to keep with you like I did to help me take apart. It's priceless.

    Model 60 action assembly - RimfireCentral.com Forums

    Do this first and reassemble, see if you like it:

    My sear (the red arrow) had almost a hook on the end of it and I had to remove quite a bit of metal. It works great now but took 25 mins to adjust with small tools/sandpaper so as not to overdo it. You DO want it to looks like his even if you have some remove a little metal.

    Stop here unless it's still too heavy.

    Then go to:
    How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60 (Drawing) - RimfireCentral.com Forums

    Do the JB weld (Cold Steel, 2 tubes in Wal-Mart) if your trigger has a long take up, mine has almost none now and just goes click when you pull the trigger - no extra movement. Since its hard to see on the diagram, when you have the trigger removed from the gun its that bulb on the part of the trigger that extends upwards into the gun, its on the trigger NOT anywhere in the action. JB weld worked nice because it runs over the contour as it dries and makes it close to the shape it was anyways. I used sandpaper to smooth it out and make it even when done.

    If you just want to weaken the springs (suggested first) just stretch the spring out a bit - move it pretty far opposite the way its pulling and when it comes back it has less tension at the same place.

    Weakening the trigger spring worked well too. Its hard to get too so I just took some needle nose pliers, grabbed the short leg that is on the trigger pushing it back and pulled it out and away a couple times (just look at it and press it, you'll see whats moving the trigger back, its below where you put the JB weld almost in the trigger itself). It gets weaker with each far pull so don't overdo it. Do not mess with the coil of the spring.

    I drilled a custom hole for my sear spring leg, like the guy noted in the powerpoint above. Just drilling a hole in the plate did not work for me (spring kept popping out under tension). I put some scotch tape on the bottom of the hole, filled the hole with JB weld, then inserted a tac covered in grease so the JB weld would not stick to it. This left a small hole after it dried and then I put in a small nail, about 1/2in tall. (after hammering it in with the point, file it off so the bottom is smooth. Do not use cutting pliers, the pressure might weaken the hole and make you start over with more JB) and it works GREAT.

    I cannot believe I was able to hammer something through the JB weld without knocking it out or loose, it holds tight amazingly enough. It adds a closer post so no chance of slipping and its got a top with an edge so it won't fly off. You just need to make sure your nail or whatever you use is below the post next to it or you can't reassemble. **Because of this I had to use the needle nose and bend my sear spring to almost half a square to fit in the new post, it works fine.

    A new post will usually take you below 3lb breaks, at the very least its much better.

    I do not recommend cutting the hammer spring, its permanent and I really did just take 1 coil off mine and had problems with it flying off afterward, I had to have it set in a specific spot now. If your trigger is still too heavy do this last.

    That's what you need to do, try weakening one spring at a time (all 2 of them) and then reassembling. If you do like me and all at once your going to end up with a REALLY light trigger pull. I could move the spring off my custom post back to the regular one by straightening it out, but I like it.

    Hope this helps someone, any questions with your own job PM me.

    Last thing, while it was apart and cleaned I put a SMALL amount of grease on all the surfaces that rub each other, by small I mean you have to look to see it's there.