Improving the Factory Bolt-Gun: Phase One
Frequently I answer threads with people wondering what is a good, budget rifle to buy for hunting or entry level target shooting, and the OP wants to know what are some improvements that can be done that don’t cost a lot of money.
For this thread, we will assume that you have done your research and you have found a bolt action rifle that fits your budget, have found a scope and rings that you like, can afford, and can’t afford ( or don’t care ) to reload at this time.
Having the scope correctly mounted is crucial, as is having the right length of pull on the stock, to ensure you can squeeze the accuracy out of the rifle that you want. Again, we will assume that you have had this entry level stuff done already.
1. Trigger Job. I can’t stress the importance of having a good, crisp, clean breaking trigger on your weapon. Trigger pull weights vary by the type of application (as “light” as 2 ounces on a benchrest competition rifle and as “heavy” as 3.5# of 4.5# for a winter edition hunting rifle).
A really good trigger has very little “creep”. This is the amount of travel from untouched to the point that the trigger has resistance just before the trigger goes to work.
The trigger should “break like a glass rod” when it goes bang. That is, the pressure should increase very slightly before it “breaks” and the rifle goes off. This process is in reference to having a glass rod, supported between a couple of points and slowly loading weight onto the middle. When the “glass” has had enough, it will not begin to sag, or weaken and crack, it will out right break. Your trigger should break the same way.
After the break, your trigger should have very little “over travel” before it resets. Most factory triggers have over travel that is considered “extensive”. Over travel isn’t a killer to accuracy, but it will definitely affect your ability to get back on target quickly.
Trigger jobs come in a couple of forms. Reworking of the factory trigger, or putting in a replacement, after market trigger.
Reworking of the factory trigger is best left to a professional gunsmith, because you usually are permanently altering the metal surfaces of 2 or 3 levers that make the trigger work. This process usually takes an hour or so and would cost anywhere from $50 to $100 depending on the gun shop.
Aftermarket triggers come in various forms, usually they are custom designed for your rifle, almost always feature a full three lever design, and come pre-tuned to a specific pull weight.
Aftermarket triggers are considered “better” but that is not always the case. If your gunsmith is skilled in a good trigger job, he can usually save you a hundred or so dollars by reworking your factory trigger into a great shooter.
Every gunsmith has weapons in their shop that are either waiting to be picked up, or are their own work. Ask them to try one of their custom trigger jobs.
A reworked factory trigger is always going to cost you less money than purchasing an aftermarket trigger and having it installed. Unless, of course, you got a REALLY great deal on that trigger.
The factory trigger is the easiest, cheapest and should probably be one of your first 2 or 3 changes to improve the accuracy of your recent addition.
Next: Glass Bedding the Factory Action
Frequently I answer threads with people wondering what is a good, budget rifle to buy for hunting or entry level target shooting, and the OP wants to know what are some improvements that can be done that don’t cost a lot of money.
For this thread, we will assume that you have done your research and you have found a bolt action rifle that fits your budget, have found a scope and rings that you like, can afford, and can’t afford ( or don’t care ) to reload at this time.
Having the scope correctly mounted is crucial, as is having the right length of pull on the stock, to ensure you can squeeze the accuracy out of the rifle that you want. Again, we will assume that you have had this entry level stuff done already.
1. Trigger Job. I can’t stress the importance of having a good, crisp, clean breaking trigger on your weapon. Trigger pull weights vary by the type of application (as “light” as 2 ounces on a benchrest competition rifle and as “heavy” as 3.5# of 4.5# for a winter edition hunting rifle).
A really good trigger has very little “creep”. This is the amount of travel from untouched to the point that the trigger has resistance just before the trigger goes to work.
The trigger should “break like a glass rod” when it goes bang. That is, the pressure should increase very slightly before it “breaks” and the rifle goes off. This process is in reference to having a glass rod, supported between a couple of points and slowly loading weight onto the middle. When the “glass” has had enough, it will not begin to sag, or weaken and crack, it will out right break. Your trigger should break the same way.
After the break, your trigger should have very little “over travel” before it resets. Most factory triggers have over travel that is considered “extensive”. Over travel isn’t a killer to accuracy, but it will definitely affect your ability to get back on target quickly.
Trigger jobs come in a couple of forms. Reworking of the factory trigger, or putting in a replacement, after market trigger.
Reworking of the factory trigger is best left to a professional gunsmith, because you usually are permanently altering the metal surfaces of 2 or 3 levers that make the trigger work. This process usually takes an hour or so and would cost anywhere from $50 to $100 depending on the gun shop.
Aftermarket triggers come in various forms, usually they are custom designed for your rifle, almost always feature a full three lever design, and come pre-tuned to a specific pull weight.
Aftermarket triggers are considered “better” but that is not always the case. If your gunsmith is skilled in a good trigger job, he can usually save you a hundred or so dollars by reworking your factory trigger into a great shooter.
Every gunsmith has weapons in their shop that are either waiting to be picked up, or are their own work. Ask them to try one of their custom trigger jobs.
- It should have very little creep, a crisp, clean break and very little travel to reset.
- On a boltgun, it’s important to check for a trigger that is too light and could result in a “slam fire”. This condition is when the bolt is closed aggressively, as if you are quickly chambering another round because you are amped over your deer/elk, and the weapon goes off. If this happens, the weapon’s trigger is TOO LIGHT and is UNSAFE. Any weapon that “slam fires” needs to be reworked until that condition no longer exists.
A reworked factory trigger is always going to cost you less money than purchasing an aftermarket trigger and having it installed. Unless, of course, you got a REALLY great deal on that trigger.
The factory trigger is the easiest, cheapest and should probably be one of your first 2 or 3 changes to improve the accuracy of your recent addition.
Next: Glass Bedding the Factory Action