Hunting AR's

16" lightweight barrel does the job for me. You'll see a lot of 20" bull barrels posted, but I haven't found the need for one personally. If you were hunting prairie dogs at 500 yds, that may be different.

 

24" ss floated fluted 1:8 bull j&t distributing build, 16" ultra flat camo paint older Bushmaster (when Bushmaster was Bushmaster)



Depends on the distance you are shooting if I could only have one I would build a 18" bull floated fluted 1:8 with a low profile gas block and a full length hand guard. For where I live that would go plenty far enuf.

 

AR Performance 16" 6.8 SPCII barrel, 2.5X10 Vortex Scope with dead hold BDC, Larue bipod and Larue scope mount. I like the Barnes 85 gr TSX at 3100 fps. Shoots sub moa groups all in a small compact package.

 

would make a superb varmint gun but i built it as a pure target rifle

 

I've had my RRA 20" Varminter for many years,and it has always been very accurate and reliable. Works great on varmints/yotes/etc.



And for the bigger game,I like the RRA 458 SOCOM!

 

Justin,

For my longer range varmint and predator shooting and also secondary deer rifle it is my Sabre Defense 18" Precision/Comp Rifle in 6.5 Grendel. 95 gr. Hornady V-max for predators, varmints and pigs and Hornady 127 gr. SST for Deer sized game. Good long range ballistics.

03

 

Hi JustinM,

Want to hunt predators? Big choice of predators out there to be hunted. To give a better response, just what you aim, pun intended, to hunt will make some adjustments.

I will try to give some useful information.

Little beasts at some distance requires some very good shooting. Yet, many times, is performed from a fixed location. If this is your hunting type, go with a long/er heavy/bull barrel and a bi-pod. Weight is not a concern.

Quick, fast moving beasts that pop up and are gone are another problem to work with. Quicker motion is beneficial. Short/er lighter weight barrels help with this.

Stock types fall into two groups, fixed and collapsible. The fix is normally a little more rigid. Collapsible, more convenient and some/many are sturdy as well.

Chamberings are many. For your stated use, some may not suitable. I would offer that for a first AR, go with a conventional .223/5.56, the Wylde and similar are a good choice. Ammunition is plentiful and cheap(er).

For long/er ranges, look at the 6point8 and 6.5G. This doesn't imply that the .223/5.56 can't do 'it', for it does and in the right hands is excellent.

I currently am working with an AR in 300 AAC Blackout. It provides a greater diameter holes with excellent velocities to 150/175 yards or so. Not ideal for ground hogs at 450 yards. But ideal (my opinion) for wild hogs at the ranges I see them.

Optics? This is directly dependent on what and how far you expect to need/use your AR.

Barrel length adds or reduces velocities, longer for greater, shorter for less. Don't worry, the actual loss or gain per inch is not that great. Long barrels do give a longer sighting radius for iron sights, and this can give better accuracy. Scopes don't care.

No matter what you select, I think that home loads are better than boughten loads. If you don't, think about getting into reloading.

To the weapons.

The top displayed is a 16 inch with collapsible stock.

The lower displayed is a 20 inch with an A2 stock.

I'll carry the 16 incher all day with no complaints. The 20 inch heavy barrel get to be a pain, quick.


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http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74843&stc=1&d=1355628759

 

JustinM,

Don't forget that 20 inch barrels are generally 'Rifle Length Gas Systems - gas block location and buffer' and 16 inch barrels are normally 'Carbine or Mid-Length' gas systems.
The people in the know say that the shorter the gas system, the more ware. I have had all three and with comparable buffer/gas tubes can tell much if any difference. But then I don't shoot thousands of round each day. I seldom run over 3 to 5 hundred rounds down a barrel before I move on to my next toy.

As for the Wylde chamber, I have has several and no complaints. But then, I'm not a good gauge as I load all of my own for each weapon.

 

Great info, oldpapps!

 

JustinM,

I have never bought a 'complete' AR/M4.

If you have a pair of long nose pliers, leather/plastic mallet, flat blade screw driver, some tape and can look at a step by step slide show/video, then you can put together your own 'lower'. This gives the 'builder' (I like that, it's more like tinker toys) a better understanding of just what is inside, can save some money and a true sense of accomplishment.

Putting together the upper is also not hard to do. But it does require some specialized tools. I have never broken over and bought them. I buy completed uppers.

Things to look at include: twist, true chamber and is the flash suppressor permanently attached (for those 14 plus barrels that must be made 16 inches). Pick you upper (barrel length and gas system length) before buying the buffer, to save money and time, they should match and this can be a problem.

I tend to favor 'flat tops' over the traditional 'handled' upper configuration. I see them as less problem to mount sights (irons or optics).

In today's environment, expect delays in filling your order/s.
If you don't have a dealer that you know, find one and befriend him. Talk over what you like/want. Patronize his services and the products he sells.

Look at on line places like: DSA, PSA, RockRiver and so many others.

Optics can quickly go to the extreme! I have a major problem paying more for a scope than I do for the rifle. And realistically, I'm not going to be doing night opps in some foreign land. Too much magnification make target acquisition slow at best and impossible for quick shots (that coyote that bobbed out of the brush for just a second or two).

The best of luck.

 

RRA Predator Pursuit 20" SS
Nikon M-223 3-12x42 BDC 600

 

1600 with the scope