[Dillinger]

Two stage triggers are more of a target/varmint style trigger in that they allow a slight creep, then a glass rod like break when you fire.

A standard GI trigger is designed to go bang from the word go as it's purpose is to get rounds on target in a hurry.

Basically the difference between a scalpel and a chainsaw.

 

[Dillinger]

**BUMP**

For the new members with questions about the platform. You can build one yourself and become well versed in the operation of this fine weapon system.

JD

 

[Sniper03]

In addition to our good Brother Dillinger's excellent job above regarding the assembly of the lower receiver and parts. I would like to add a technique for installation of the 6 position tactical stock.

While threading in the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) into the Receiver the following technique will assist you with getting the proper engagement with the Buffer Retainer. While threading in the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) assuring the Lock Nut (Castle Nut) and End Plate Adapter is completely to the rear on the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube). Hold down the Buffer Retainer compressing the Take Down Pin Spring at the rear of the Receiver and run the end of the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) against the tip in the center of the Buffer Retainer. The stock will normally not be centered or straight at this point. Then back it off the Tip of the Buffer Retainer until the Stock is straight. And the toe of the stock is in line with the center mold mark on the back of the Pistol Grip. *Recommended! If the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) contact point is less than 1/2 way between the outside edge of Buffer Retainer cylinder and the center Tip of the Buffer Retainer as recommended. It can be adjusted by taking a medium file and dressing off the raised surface of the end of the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube). If the tube is flat with no raised surface remove evenly all over. *Only about four of five light strokes with the file and then re-install and check the engagement of the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) with the Tip and the outside edge of the Buffer Retainer. The point is! The closer the end of the Extension Tube is to the Tip of the Buffer Retainer and it still have clear movement up and down the better.
Failure to properly assemble the stock can result in a damaged receiver, since the Buffer Retainer without properly being positioned can result in the aluminum of the Receiver being pushed forward in front of the Buffer Retainer as the Buffer Retainer attempts to come out of position in the receiver as the buffer is pushing forward on it. In the case where you initially performing this technique and should the Stock be straight and the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) be straight and slightly contacting the Tip on the Buffer Retainer. Attempt to tighten up the Lock Nut (Castle Nut) on the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube). A lot of the time this will square the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) with the Receiver and the Buffer Retainer will move freely. *The point being the closer the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube) is to the Tip of the Buffer Retainer and it still have free movement the better! This will provide good strong positive retention of the Buffer as it comes forward.
* Once the End Plate Adapter is in position with the Stock. DO NOT MOVE THE STOCK FROM SIDE TO SIDE!!!! Be sure to lock down the Lock Nut (Castle Nut!)

Additional! When removing the Lock Nut (Castle Nut) from a rifle if not having a military stake on the end plate adapter. Be sure to heat the Lock Nut (Castle Nut) first. Rock River and other companies are using Thread Locker on them. Removing them without heating them first will result in damaging the threads on the Extension Tube (Buffer Tube).
Ronson makes a great small torch which is available from Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot and other stores and refills with a Ronson Cigarette Lighter refill canister for under $30.00.

03

 

[Vikingdad]

Is there a torque spec for the buffer tube lock nut?

 

[monteros]

30-35ft pounds

 

[sigman84]

How are you supposed to measure that when you can't get a torque wrench on it?

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[dwmiller]

How are you supposed to measure that when you can't get a torque wrench on it?

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Torque wrench plugs into the square hole on the AR Wrench...

 

[sigman84]

O OK.

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[sigman84]

Then you have to calculate the new torque spec for the added length of the AR wrench.

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[dwmiller]

Then you have to calculate the new torque spec for the added length of the AR wrench.

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The torque specs ARE calculated with this in mind. That's why all milspec wrenches are the same length and hole configuration.

 

[FrontierTCB]

The torque specs ARE calculated with this in mind. That's why all milspec wrenches are the same length and hole configuration.

Makes sense. Learn something new every time I log in here.

 

[Vikingdad]

Wow. Thread resurrection. Good one though! I have my AR all built up now.

 

[JonM]

The torque specs ARE calculated with this in mind. That's why all milspec wrenches are the same length and hole configuration.

They are not. If you go inline you will vastly over torque.

Put the torque wrench 90 degrees to the nut wrench and its one to one. When they are end to end it multiplies the end torque based on how far the nut wrench extends. There is an equation to do the math but its easier to just 90 degree it

 

[sigman84]

OK cool. Thx for the info.

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[dwmiller]

They are not. If you go inline you will vastly over torque.

Put the torque wrench 90 degrees to the nut wrench and its one to one. When they are end to end it multiplies the end torque based on how far the nut wrench extends. There is an equation to do the math but its easier to just 90 degree it

Sorry JonM, glad you caught that. That's what I get for assuming that everyone knows to put the AR wrench on the torque wrench at 90 degree. Didnt even occur to me that someone would try to put it on inline. Guess you don't see the obvious when you've been doing it for so long....

They say assumption is the mother of all f%&*ups....

 

[sigman84]

True.

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[sigttt]

I am working on my first build and just got the barrel and gas tube installed, I was checking the bolt alignment and now the bolt is stuck and will not come out! Any suggestions.




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[bmab]

you can also get an 80% finished AR lower in the mail. if it's a polymer one, you can easily finish it with a $70 drill press from Harbor Freight tools, or even with just a hand held power drill and a $15 copy of the Dremel hand grinder, from harbor Freight. The plastic one can be finished, ready to assemble the other parts to it, in less than an hour. The metal 80% models, tho, you had better think twice! It's going to require a BIG vise, a jig that costs $200 and a $50 router, etc.

 

[fwiblesr]

Now it’s time to put in the last part on your new AR Lower. You could do this step earlier if you wanted, but I was working in somewhat of a systematic format around the lower. In any event, you are now ready to place the Pivot Pin in place. Here are the three parts in question: Remember when I said there were two truly bastard parts to install on this project. This is the other one. You have to place the Pivot Pin Spring into the AR Lower first. This is contrary to how you did it with the Take Down Pin Spring, but it will serve the same purpose, as you will soon see. The Pivot Pin Spring is large enough, that when you try to push the Pivot Pin Detent Pin into place, it’s going to try and jump right back out on you. The first time I ever took one of these apart, the Spring and the Detent jumped across the shop and my ‘Smith just laughed and said “What did we learn?” What I learned is that this pin Spring and Detent is a P.I.T.A. Here is the Pivot Pin Spring and the Pivot Pin Detent in the Lower Receiver with a punch holding them in place. In this application the punch will be replaced with the Pivot Pin. Notice that the Pivot Pin has a groove down one side of the pin. You will need to align this slot with the Pivot Pin Detent so the Pivot Pin will stay firmly attached to the Lower Receiver. continued...

NEED HELP can you order a new Receiver for the Hi Point 995 or do you have an old one the can not be used that you will sell and I can register my gun with it condition not important just need serial number to send to hi point Frank [email protected] Will Listen to options to get my gun working

 

[OldGnome]

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