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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Bodyguard 380 with a live round stuck in the chamber. The slide won't open or close, and I can't apply the safety. Gun has 7 rounds through it and the 8th failed to make it all the way into the chamber. It's steel-cased Tulammo. How should this be cleared?

 

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1. Remove the magazine... It may be partially grasping the back of the round, or blocking the back of the round from moving rearward. If it is partially hung up it will take some force to pull it free.

Once the mag is out... You should be ably to manipulate the slide and clear the weapon.

If the slide still won't budge with mag removed you might want to see a gunsmith.

Personally, I'd point it in a safe direction and with finger "off" trigger... Deliver a sharp blow to the rear of the slide with the palm of my off hand to fully seat the cartridge... But some may not be comfortable doing this.

Tack
 

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First of all keep it pointed in a safe direction. I take it you have tried with all your might to pull the slide back. I would take a plastic mallet and gently...I say again gently tap the slide backward. Do not put your hands in front of the barrel! It might not take much if you can tap on the rear edge of the ejection port. I would do it at a range if it was me...you know just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. Remove the magazine... It may be partially grasping the back of the round, or blocking the back of the round from moving rearward. If it is partially hung up it will take some force to pull it free.

Once the mag is out... You should be ably to manipulate the slide and clear the weapon.

If the slide still won't budge with mag removed you might want to see a gunsmith.

Personally, I'd point it in a safe direction and with finger "off" trigger... Deliver a sharp blow to the rear of the slide with the palm of my off hand to fully seat the cartridge... But some may not be comfortable doing this.

Tack
I tried to fully-seat by hitting the back of the slide fairly forcefully. Cannot rack the slide. I will try a rubber mallet.

Is there a firing pin block on this gun that will prevent it from firing unless the round is fully-seated?
 

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pointed in safe direction n hands clear or barrel. look up the mag well see if u can identify the problem. a long screw drive mit help. but be care full. range, or equivalent would b best
 

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keep in mind this is a live round.

try the rubber mallet.

do you have a vice? try to place the firearm in the vice when using the mallet.

perhaps try to spray some wd-40 up into the slide rails. never know it may help and can also be cleaned off later.
 

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Looking closer at the 3rd pic, it appears as though the round is fully chambered but the extractor claw is behind the cartridge rim... Rather than locked over it.

I'm not that familiar with the Bodyguard so I don't know if the extractors position may be mechanically locking the slide?

I would refer to the owners manual before going with the rubber mallet.

If you have a dental pic you may be able to slide it under the extractor and pop it out so it properly grasps the cartridge and allows the slide to seat.

Tack
 

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i wouldnt rubber mallet it. you can damage the gun that way if the case is over long.

steel cased ammo like tula can stick solid in non-chromed chambers.

what i would do is put the slide against the edge of something wood but not blocking the barrel or guide rod and give the grip a sharp knock forward trying to cycle the slide to the rear.

if you can get it rearwad use a wood stick to tap the round out if it wont come out. dont pry from the rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looking closer at the 3rd pic, it appears as though the round is fully chambered but the extractor claw is behind the cartridge rim... Rather than locked over it.

I'm not that familiar with the Bodyguard so I don't know if the extractors position may be mechanically locking the slide?

I would refer to the owners manual before going with the rubber mallet.

If you have a dental pic you may be able to slide it under the extractor and pop it out so it properly grasps the cartridge and allows the slide to seat.

Tack
The extractor claw is sitting in the grove at the base of the cartridge, where it should be, I think.
 

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From what I can see, the cartridge is not fully seated. Tula is very dirty and it is probably jammed up on crud in the chamber. Tapping it with a mallet could make the situation worse. I would leave the mag out and clamp the pistol with the barrel straight up. Pour a solvent down the barrel to break up the crud. The barrel is probably pretty well sealed at this point and when it starts draining off the round should release.
 

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If you are asking us what to do, then you are playing with fire doing it on your own. Carefully put the gun in it's case and take it to a gunsmith. Do not mess around with live ammo. What a cluster .... though. Geez.
 

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That happened to my 1911 one time With tula i was able to pull the trigger and fire the round cycling it out. Hope it works out for you.
 

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I tried to fully-seat by hitting the back of the slide fairly forcefully. Cannot rack the slide. I will try a rubber mallet.

Is there a firing pin block on this gun that will prevent it from firing unless the round is fully-seated?
Even if there was a firing pin block you still need to point it in a safe direction. Safety is important.
 

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I think that should go with out saying that's one of 10 rules but I guess there's nothing wrong with reminding people SAFTEY FIRST:cool
 

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The extractor claw is sitting in the grove at the base of the cartridge, where it should be, I think.
If the claw is in the groove then and the magazine is out the remaining options are...

1. This round of Tula has an improper case length or the round is not seated deeply enough to allow the chamber to close.

2. Gunk is preventing the round from fully seating... but I though you said this was the last round of the 1st mag? Doubt 7 rounds... even 7 rounds of Tula would "dirty" it up that quickly.

3. The "last" round you fired before the malfunction was a "squib" round and it's lodged in the barrels entrance eliminating enough head space to prevent the 8th round from fully chambering. :eek:

Squibs occur when the powder charge is too light or is not there in a specific cartridge. The expanding gas from the detonation of the primer alone is often "enough" pressure to lodge the round in the barrel "and" cycle the weapon. In military jargon this in knows as a "pop no kick" due to the lack of muzzle report and lighter than normal recoil. Soldiers are trained to watch for it and it is the cause of MANY catastrophic failures. If this happened, you are very luck that the round did not lodge deep "enough" to allow the 8th round to fully seat because pulling the trigger again would have resulted in a Ka-Boom.

Test this with a wooden dowel. First lay it along side the barrel and mark the barrels length from the crown to the end of the chamber. Then insert it into the barrel "keeping hand clear of the muzzle".

If the rod does not insert fully to the chamber mark, you have a squib lodged in the barrel and "definitely" need a gun smith to go any further.

If there is no squib, lube the crap out of it, wedge the slide against a wooded table or work bench "keeping the muzzle and guide rod clear" and shove down hard.

Tack
 

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The only time I've ever seen anything like that ,"The Ejector out of sync". is when manually loading one round directly into the chamber without feeding from mag...? Unless ejector is jammed it should release..?

As mentioned , possible "squib" , with a live round behind it ..? Gun smith..!
 
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