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Discussion in 'Cleaning and Maintenance' started by urquidez, Aug 22, 2012.
Will hoppes. 9 mess up the blue finish on a gun?
No. Stuff has been around since 1903. Want to know what is in it?
30-40 Ethyl Alcohol
Less than 10 Xylene
Less than 10 Amyl Acetate
Less than 10 Ammonium Hydrochloride
Less than 10 Citronella
Nothing that will hurt bluing.
I've used it for years and never had a problem.
Alight Ty very much
Never. Use it all the time. But since i'm on this thread, i would like to ask a qurstion.
If i soak my suppressor with Hoppes #9 for 24 hours, will it damage my can's finish? Thank you
Which suppressor?? 22lr?? centerfire??
9mm. I havent gotten my 5.56 or the 22lr on me yet. So just the non user servicable 9mm. What do u think Jon?
Is it true that many women use Hoppe's #9 for perfume when they are looking for a real man?
Yep, G96 seals the deal.
I like CLP, myself. Hoppe's #9 must be removed before oiling with Mobil1, but CLP can pretty much stay on there.
I use Hoppes #9 primarily for bore cleaning and CLP for rest of firearm. Great stuff.
I've used hoppes no9 bore cleaner < works good >
And gun oil on my dan wesson which the finish is very fragile and never had any issues.
Hoppe's #9 is sold as 'nitro powder solvent'. The primary purpose it does is to dissolve the residue of burnt gunpowder in the barrel, action and where ever else it gets. It's not bad to assist in removing jacket fouling and plastic in shotgun barrels. I use it for that purpose on both guns (and magazines) and on fired brass while I'm tumbling them to remove all the grit and gunk that wear out dies. Clean brass is also easier to inspect for cracks and such.
Once clean, a firearm needs both lubricant and some form of rust protection. "Oil" serves both these functions at once. But a little goes a long way. Some folks use a grease type lubricant on the fast moving rubbing parts, like slides to frame, bolts to receiver and operating rods; and then lighter oil on surfaces subject to rust and slow moving parts like interior clockwork of a revolver and the sear and such of a self-loader or rifle.
And a firearm needs to be scrubbed out every so often to remove all the congealed and - over time - dust impregnated oil residing therein. Moving parts do get sticky when not exercised regularly.
If they don't, they should.
Sorry i didnt get back to this thread. It wont help or hinder. Long as you arent shooting lead and sticking with copper jacketed a suppressor shouldnt need cleaning in the fashion a gun barrel does.
What you can do is run some water in there shake it up pour it out and rinse it real good then shoot it till it dries. Only if your can is rated for running wet. If its not rated for wet or not able to be disassembled it should never be cleaned with any liquid.