Hoppe's 9

Discussion in 'Cleaning and Maintenance' started by urquidez, Aug 22, 2012.

  1. urquidez

    urquidez New Member

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    Will hoppes. 9 mess up the blue finish on a gun?
     
  2. c3shooter

    c3shooter Administrator Staff Member

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    No. Stuff has been around since 1903. Want to know what is in it?

    30-40 Kerosene
    30-40 Ethyl Alcohol
    Less than 10 Xylene
    Less than 10 Amyl Acetate
    Less than 10 Ammonium Hydrochloride
    Less than 10 Citronella

    Nothing that will hurt bluing.
     

  3. DrumJunkie

    DrumJunkie New Member

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    I've used it for years and never had a problem.
     
  4. urquidez

    urquidez New Member

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    Alight Ty very much
     
  5. okdonk

    okdonk New Member

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    Never. Use it all the time. But since i'm on this thread, i would like to ask a qurstion.
    If i soak my suppressor with Hoppes #9 for 24 hours, will it damage my can's finish? Thank you
     
  6. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    Which suppressor?? 22lr?? centerfire??
     
  7. okdonk

    okdonk New Member

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    9mm. I havent gotten my 5.56 or the 22lr on me yet. So just the non user servicable 9mm. What do u think Jon?
     
  8. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    Is it true that many women use Hoppe's #9 for perfume when they are looking for a real man?
     
  9. kytowboater

    kytowboater Active Member

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    Yep, G96 seals the deal.
     
  10. CHLChris

    CHLChris New Member

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    I like CLP, myself. Hoppe's #9 must be removed before oiling with Mobil1, but CLP can pretty much stay on there.
     
  11. PanBaccha

    PanBaccha New Member

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    I use Hoppes #9 primarily for bore cleaning and CLP for rest of firearm. Great stuff.
     
  12. Gh0zt36

    Gh0zt36 Active Member

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    I've used hoppes no9 bore cleaner < works good >

    And gun oil on my dan wesson which the finish is very fragile and never had any issues.
     
  13. OldManMontgomery

    OldManMontgomery Member

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    Hoppe's #9 is sold as 'nitro powder solvent'. The primary purpose it does is to dissolve the residue of burnt gunpowder in the barrel, action and where ever else it gets. It's not bad to assist in removing jacket fouling and plastic in shotgun barrels. I use it for that purpose on both guns (and magazines) and on fired brass while I'm tumbling them to remove all the grit and gunk that wear out dies. Clean brass is also easier to inspect for cracks and such.

    Once clean, a firearm needs both lubricant and some form of rust protection. "Oil" serves both these functions at once. But a little goes a long way. Some folks use a grease type lubricant on the fast moving rubbing parts, like slides to frame, bolts to receiver and operating rods; and then lighter oil on surfaces subject to rust and slow moving parts like interior clockwork of a revolver and the sear and such of a self-loader or rifle.

    And a firearm needs to be scrubbed out every so often to remove all the congealed and - over time - dust impregnated oil residing therein. Moving parts do get sticky when not exercised regularly.
     
  14. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    If they don't, they should.
     
  15. JonM

    JonM Moderator

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    Sorry i didnt get back to this thread. It wont help or hinder. Long as you arent shooting lead and sticking with copper jacketed a suppressor shouldnt need cleaning in the fashion a gun barrel does.

    What you can do is run some water in there shake it up pour it out and rinse it real good then shoot it till it dries. Only if your can is rated for running wet. If its not rated for wet or not able to be disassembled it should never be cleaned with any liquid.