Hey HillBilly

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by jeepcreep927, Mar 16, 2008.

  1. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Hopefully these work... I sprayed it with parts store brand bed liner for texture first, masking the cheekpiece to keep it smooth. I used Krylon "Khaki", matte black and whatever their earth brown camo series color is called. Base was with khaki, then laid a small white pine branch over it, then brown, then black near the bottom of the stock for shade effect. It was a little cluttered and from what I know about camoflauge would have looked solid at distance, defeating the point. I was a little nervous considering the stock alone is worth more than I am. I just placed the small branch over random areas and "misted" it again with the khaki. After it dried I applied Dura Coat matte clear with an airbrush and low pressure. Only reccomendation I have is don't get too close with the Dura Coat. Even though it's matte if it builds up it will gloss up a little. I put about 5 light coats of Dura Coat on it, hitting it with a hairdryer in between to get it to flash off quickly and keep it as matte as possible. I tried to compromise on the colors to encompass the areas I will hunt with it most: overgrown field edges and low branched softwood. I like it and it was pretty cheap and easy.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 16, 2008
  2. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Ohh, and the old Weaver 4x is just to get me by until my Leupold VXIII 4.5-14 comes in.:eek:
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2008

  3. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Oops, the other side. This a crappy work camera so the color might not look quite the same.
     

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  4. hillbilly68

    hillbilly68 New Member

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    :D :D :D
    Doggone! That looks awesome! You can't beat that, appreciate getting the pics up and posted. I am impressed, good quality work getting the pattern on. She looks great, I am inspired. Will have to give it a try when I do my next one.

    Congrats on the "new" rifle.
     
  5. gnoll

    gnoll New Member

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    send m a lonk were u got it dun
     
  6. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Umm, not quite following... One more time?
     
  7. Doug1627

    Doug1627 New Member

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    That looks really good! Thanks for the write up.:)
     
  8. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Nice looking stick - How about a write up of the rest of the gun? Looks like a Remy 700 with, possibly, a 20" bull barrel? Caliber? :rolleyes:
     
  9. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    I am not sure what you wanna know. It's my attempt to get into long(er) range shooting, like only out to 500 yards or so. There are not really any longer, safe areas for anything over that here in VT. It's a Remington 700 LTR in .308. I slapped a Harris bi pod on it that I got for next to nothing. I pored over scope mounting options and settled on a plain old Leupold 1 piece base with Leupold rings. I am awaiting the delivery of a scope ring lapping rod and a Leupold VX III 4.5-15X-40mm AJO. I figure at this point the rifle can easily shoot better than I can and I can always upgrade later. I have adhered to the slow barrel break in despite some of the conflicting info. 1 round, clean, 1 round, clean for 10 rounds. 3 rounds clean, 3 rounds clean etc. The only thing I can find concrete logic in is NOT using any type of "abrasive" paste as I have heard of some guys using Flitz or JB. I also decided to avoid moly coated bullets. Only issue I have is that the base uses only one of the two rear base mounting screws, which I cannot undstand. Hopefully I can get some decent range time this spring, and wreak havok on the local woodchuck population since I conned my dad into reloading some 110 grain V Max for me.:D
     
  10. Dillinger

    Dillinger New Member

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    Nice. In my opinion the .308 is only good to about 600, maybe 650 yards anyways, so you are fine. Yes, the Marines take it out to a grand and blah, blah, blah. The fact is, the weapon isn't designed to be effective at that range. Can it pull it off? Of course, and you can record kills with it all day if you have the patience and good conditions. But, to transistion from 250 yards, out to 750, back to 300 and then out to 1,000? You are going to turning knobs all damn day, even with a Mil-Dot. I think you have the right caliber for the job. :cool:

    Your break in procedure is top notch, maybe even a little overboard depending on the caliber of the barrel you are shooting. Is it custom? ( Hart, Kreiger, etc. ) Or is it Remington factory? In any event, with the diligence you are using, it will serve you well for years to come. Kudos to you! *They need a thumbs up icon in here*

    As for the base - Remington bases do suck. I would suggest getting it replaced when you got the cash. Have the mounting holes drilled out for one size bigger, I think they are #8's now, but one size up makes all the difference in the world for having a sound platform. Get a good 20MOA scope base like the ones from Badger Ordnance ( badgerord.com ). They make an awesome base and it's a direct short action replacement. Their Military Issue rings are top notch. Since you bought such a great scope, you need a good platform for it, or it won't do you any good.

    I look forward to seeing the bounty placed on your head in the months to come in The WoodChuck Gazette. :D Happy Hunting....

    D
     
  11. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    I plan to replace the base as soon as I can slip the $$$ past my girl. The scope and rifle were pretty hard to sneak in, gotta let it cool off for a little bit. I have looked at the Badger Ordnance stuff and like the set up. I have also considered the stuff from Farrell. Again, not cheap.
    It is a factory Remmington barrel, but I figured I wouldn't be out more than a few boxes of ammo for the break in. I was wondering however, about mil surplus ammo. I have a ton of Hirtenburger stuff for my G3. The bullets are steel core with what I have read to be a "copper washed" bullet. I pulled one and cut the bullet apart. The copper seems to be much thicker than any "washed" bullets I have seen. I would like to shoot some just for targets, not serious accuracy. Anyone see any problems with shooting the steel, copper covered bullets? Again, the copper is relatively thick, appears to be as thick as a jacket on a lead bullet. I did a Saeko hardness test and it reads the inner steel as a 9, almost the same as some cast bullets I made that if I remember right are wheel weights.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2008