Hey Courtjester,I'll try to help you.

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by Txhillbilly, Sep 4, 2012.

  1. Txhillbilly

    Txhillbilly Well-Known Member

    Since it seems that tempers got hot on your question thread,I'll try to make you see things better.

    If your using a Lee reloading manual,when you turn to the first page of 223 Remington,you'll see a picture of a loaded cartridge at the top of the page.
    It has the complete measurements for every surface of the cartridge.
    The Maximum case length of a 223 case is 1.760",the trim length should be 1.750".While it doesn't actually state that in that particular manual,that is what you should trim your cases to.
    The Overall Cartridge Length will depend on the particular bullet that you are loading,but in general,the maximum OAL for 223's is 2.260".
    That OAL is the maximum length that will work in an AR 15 magazine,but in a bolt action,you can have them longer if you measure your throat/chamber with an OAL gauge.

    There's really no need in crimping the bullet of a 223 round if you have your sizing dies set-up correctly.The neck of the case will have plenty of tension on the bullet.
    From what I read in your post,I don't think you have your dies set-up properly.It sounds like the die is crimping the bullet before the cartridge is at the top of the press stroke.
    Make sure you have the shell holder in the press when you are setting up your dies.

    I'd take all of the dies out of the press,and then reset them up,following the instructions that came with your dies.

    While the Lee Manual has some good load info,most of the loads are generic and not for specific brands of bullets.That can lead to having pressure problems with certain loads.
    I'd suggest getting manuals for the brand of bullets that you want to shoot.The information in the Bullet mfg's load manuals are for their bullets,and it will help you more with load development.

    Reloading is a simple process as long as you understand that you can't cut corners,or get in a hurry.Read all of the instructions before you start loading,and take your time.
    Start off with minimum powder charges and work your loads up towards the maximum charges.Always look at your brass/primers for pressure signs,they will tell you when your pushing the upper limits. (Most guns shoot best in the mid range of powder charges).

    I was going to send you this in a PM,but you don't have the system set up to receive any PM's.
  2. therewolf

    therewolf New Member

    Seems the last thread took a turn for the worse, there.

    Lee makes a fine manual.

    Slow down, be patient.

    IME, you do better loading with the maximum information

    you can get, rather than the bare minimum information you

    think you need.

    Other great reloading publications:





    The ABCs of Reloading.

    Note that there are some differences, from manual to manual,

    in the amounts of powder measurement for set powder,

    types for max and min loads. Gives you a little wiggle room.

    You should also note that the cartridge specs are uniform, almost

    exactly the same, from manual to manual.

    Experience has shown me not to trust one scale,

    test press each size before beginning a large batch,

    and crimping is better left as a separate step.
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012

  3. cottontoptexan

    cottontoptexan New Member

    Txhillbilly Advice

    Hillbilly you posted everything I wanted to say. Good advice, work to a good reloading manual, load only a few rounds to test, always use the set up data in the die set and do not crimp 223 ammo unless you are going into combat with it. It is not necessary. Reloading is serious business and big mistakes will pay a price. I load all of my 223 ammo on a single stage press and check each powder charge with a bore light before seating the bullets. Only have one bullet, one powder and one primer on the bench at a time. Double check you have the right components and double check that you did read the minimum and maximum powder charges correctly. Good shooting.
  4. noylj

    noylj Member

    Not sure what the original concern was, but:
    If you always start with the LOWEST starting load you can find (check at least two independent sources), then any jacketed 55gn bullet will be good to start at that starting load. This is NOT true if you are trying to load those all-copper "green" bullets. All jacketed bullets of a given weight will take the same starting loads. All lead bullets of a given weight will take the same starting loads. This has been true for over 80 years.
    I have never found a need to crimp a rifle round, though I do a light crimp on my .30-30 hunting rounds for a tubular magazine. Never had a problem, but never wanted one. I crimp those at the crimp groove and don't try to "make" one using the press. Also, I am more than happy with 1.5" at 100 yards in my Win M94s.
    I always sized cases just enough so they chambered easily, but found on my AR that I had to seat a bullet in the dummy rounds to chamber them. My bolt and lever rifles could chamber an empty case (don't think I ever tried an empty case from the tubular magazine though).
  5. therewolf

    therewolf New Member

    Most folks keep a record of their work reloading, prevents

    confusion later.

    I also find it helps to carefully

    segregate my work, removing all other items from the table

    except that with which I'm working.

    While eliminating distractions and stress ,

    I always find it also helps to write down what I'm

    loading, and with which components.