Help with Paint

Discussion in 'General Rifle Discussion' started by SoL, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. SoL

    SoL New Member

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    Hey hey

    I wish to paint my m1a and was just wondering what was good in terms of materials. I'm hoping to achieve a powder white finish, as in a white that is rather matte as opposed to glossy.

    Also, being that the upper is made of a plastic, I would need to use a different primer/undercoat than I would use for the wood of the stock, will this cause problems with visual differences in the end product if I use the same white?

    any help would be good

    Thanks


    SoL :D
     
  2. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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  3. jeepcreep927

    jeepcreep927 New Member

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    Second on the DuraCoat. I have used it on several firearms and stocks with excellent results. It doesn't require a primer but make sure the prep work is done correctly.

    You have a fair amount of control over the gloss with DuraCote dependant on the ratio of hardener to pigment, how "wet" you apply it, and the air pressure you use to apply it.

    If you go with Dura Cote, I would suggest an airbrush as the canned aerosol applicators are junk and you don't have the option of adjusting the pressure. The airbrush and a compressor will obviously add to the cost, but I think the end result is far better.

    Good luck.
     
  4. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    Yeah, that's the only thing I don't like about the DuraCoat kits. The little cans are really hard to work well and a compressor would make the job SO much easier, faster, and more controllable.
     
  5. dunerunner

    dunerunner New Member

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    Where is CA357? He's done a couple of duracoat, I think, jobs!!

    CA357's Sistema

    [​IMG]
     
  6. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    I originally did that 1911 with this stuff. It's a bake on finish and it was an easy application, but it requires some precision. It also it stinks up the house when it's baked.

    Wheeler Engineering Cerama-Coat 4 oz Aerosol Black - MidwayUSA

    [​IMG]

    I just finished doing my Eddystone with this stuff, Alumahyde II. It's a piece of cake, just spray it on and let it dry/cure. It's much less labor intensive and finicky that the Cerama-Coat.

    BROWNELLS : ALUMA-HYDE® II - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

    [​IMG]

    The Cerama-Coat is a bake on finish and the AlumaCoat II is a spray on epoxy coating that dries pretty quickly, but takes about two weeks to properly cure and harden.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2010
  7. dunerunner

    dunerunner New Member

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    CA, didn't you have a pic of the Eddystone somewhere....I thought that finish looked great!
     
  8. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    Now I just have to get off my butt and reassemble it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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  9. dunerunner

    dunerunner New Member

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    I think this pic shows off the finish best!!

    [​IMG]
     
  10. SoL

    SoL New Member

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    wow, that's gorgeous.

    I should have added though, I've already had the metalwork bake-finished :)
    this is just for the wood and upper, so baking it is kinda out of question,
    I believe we do actually have an airbrush hooked up here so I'll look into it.
    Is duracoat easily available and what is it likely to cost?
     
  11. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    If you'll just click on the link I provided below, you can see that.
     
  12. Biohazard2

    Biohazard2 Active Member

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    Cheap DIY Oven;
    Buy a hot plate at Harbor freight $12.00
    Buy a 8" duct pipe by 4 or 5 ft long at Lowes
    Piece of plywood to cover the top of the duct.
    Meat Thermometer at Harbor freight.
    Set the duct on top of the hot plate, drill hole in the plywood for the thermometer, drill another hole in the plywood for a wire to hold gun parts.
    Paint your parts, hang inside the duct, control heat of hot plate by watching the thermometer.
    Now you have a cheap oven and the girls won't mind if you do it in the garage.
     
  13. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    For just doing the wood and the plastic hand guard, you don't have to get all exotic. Spray paint will work just fine. You can probably find the matte white that you're looking for pretty easily.

    Krylon makes a paint just for plastic and that will do your hand guard, the wood can be sprayed with a multi surface paint.

    I used a gray primer and a Krylon textured paint for the stock on my Eddystone. I'll post pictures of it completed when I finish it up this week. In the meantime, here's a couple of pics of how the wooden stock looks after painting:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. SoL

    SoL New Member

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    yeah mate that's perfect, didn't think i'd need some superpaint just for the wood etc, though i would like it to be a relatively hardwearing paint that's not gonna get chipped and dinged easily.

    I keep forgetting to mention the fact that I'm a New Zealander who lives in New Zealand so when people say "go to brownells" and "get this stuff from midway" etc it goes right over my head :p

    I'm not currently sure if anywhere here would even have duracoat as I (in maybe the 7th year of gun ownership) seem to know more than most people who would be considered firearm specialists, esp in regards to the local constabulary.

    But what with kiwis being as DIY eccentric as we are there'll no doubt be some kind of appropriate paint, though I may be forced to apply it with a lump of sheep's wool wrapped around some number 8 wire.

    I can safely say I will be the only NZer here with an accurised (as described in the M21 conversion PDF) M1a in artic white, booyah.
     
  15. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    Spoken in true Burt Munro fashion.

    Kudos to you sir! ;)