Help with my Medusa??

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing Forum' started by Trez, May 13, 2013.

  1. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    Ok, lets try this again....

    I need help fixing my Medusa. I bought a box of 9mm at a yard sale, and they were super hot (The primer fused with the head of the case after shooting!! :eek: )

    It still shoots rimmed cartridges, but the firing pin isnt hitting the primers like it use to, and it doesnt hit the rimless rounds hard enough to fire at all... There a "dent" in my hammer, like the firing pin slammed back into the hammer. It looks like theres a small dent in the firing pin too, but the pin still flush with the frame.
    Theres also a chip in my slide...

    I read that the internal parts are the same as a S&W K-frame but others have told me different??

    I was thinking of having the hammer TIG welded and re-case hardened, would that work, or would i be better off getting a new one? Could the slide be fixed this way? (Just TIG welded? The slide isnt case hardened)

    Does anybody have a suggestion on how to remove the firing pin? I tried to remove the pin above the FP but it still doesnt come out... :confused:

    Heres pics, if they help any?...
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  2. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    More pictures.....
     

    Attached Files:


  3. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Are you sure that the firing pin does not have a "ring" peened from that shot and could impede disassembly or firing?
     
  4. orangello

    orangello New Member

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    I have no idea, but just wanted to comment on your choice in towels, titty nipple pink, nice.
    :p


    IMO, running garage-sale reloads in a limited production, no longer produced, oddball firearm is like running Premium Unleaded in your Scout.
     
  5. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    I never shoot reloads unless I have participated in the loading.

    I know I can read the recipes in the book. My father still has a little problem with understanding that the case does not need to be filled to the top. I don't shoot with him.
     
  6. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    I didnt know they were reloads... They "looked" factory and in the original box...

    Its done, and I cant change the past.... So where do I go from here???
     
  7. trip286

    trip286 New Member

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    Do they have no lingering customer support at all?
     
  8. Ronin__9

    Ronin__9 New Member

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    Heat treat

    If I remember correctly annealing and case hardening is based on carbon in the steel. Once you cook it off, you cannot (normally) add more. And the steel quality deteriorates the more you mess with heat.
    My guess is if you want to salvage is to look for more parts.
    I don't know much about revolvers.
     
  9. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    Nada.....

    I did find some S&W parts at midway that look exactly like them, but Im told S&W revolvers made at the same time as the Medusa dont use these parts?

    When did S&W go to the "new style" of revolvers??

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/892765/smith-and-wesson-target-hammer-assembly-s-and-w-17-18-617-648-500-blue

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/926136/cylinder-and-slide-extra-length-firing-pin-new-style-s-and-w-j-k-l-n-frame-revolvers
     
  10. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    What does that pin under the rear sight hold?
     
  11. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    I dont know? I thought it was holding in the firing pin.. but I still cant get the FP out.. Maybe it is "ringed" like you said??
     
  12. orangello

    orangello New Member

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  13. hiwall

    hiwall Well-Known Member

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    That has to hold the firing pin. Remove it and try tapping out the firing pin. Did the frame always look like that near the firing pin? I would suggest using your existing hammer. If necessary have a new firing pin made that is a few thousandths longer on the back end. It is a very simple firing pin so having one made should not be very expensive. Too bad you are not a little closer, I would certainly help you out.
     
  14. Trez

    Trez Well-Known Member

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    That is Awesome stuff right there 'Gello!! I want some! :eek:

    I wish I was too Hiwall, With all the old guns you fix, I think we could get this figured out..... Maybe I need to take a road trip one day ;)
     
  15. texaswoodworker

    texaswoodworker New Member

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    Holy cow!!!! That stuff looks like it will seriously mess up anything it hits. :eek:

    [​IMG]
     
  16. E7018Dan

    E7018Dan New Member

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    You can add carbon into the steel throughout the heat treating process with hot oil baths. And quality dosnt diminish in the steel if heat treated properly, your most likely thinking of carbon percipitation. The grain structure is likely to change with welding as it is heated and the filler metals have added elements such as the copper coating on the rod which should be removed as its only there to prevent corrosion to the filler itself while in storage as well as other minerals like silica. But with proper heat treating procedures and jigging to prevent noticeable warping you can return the steel to what once was. i wouldnt worry about carbon content as much as other elements that may be lost in the process. I doubt any of this would have any great effect on the application though.