Gun Restoration

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by MilSurp27, Mar 8, 2013.

  1. MilSurp27

    MilSurp27 New Member

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    I've been wanting to fix up my Mosin Nagant 91/30, so this past week I refinished the stock. I think it looks pretty good for my first ever try, and now I'm wanting to fix up the rest of it. My questions are what I can do to fix up the bolt, and any reblueing tips you guys have. Like I said, this is the first restoration project I've ever done, so all the tips you can give me are great. Links to videos or articles to help would be appreciated.
    Thanks! Pics below of the stock.
     

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  2. atrbertothy

    atrbertothy New Member

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    It is only limited to what you can think of, the limits of the rifle, and your own abilities.
    Still the bolt is most likely nickel plated so there is not much you can do to the bolt. To find out if the bolt is plated use some cold blue. If it is not plated it will turn blue. For the metal, I would start out with a stone and then use sand paper. Use WD-40 when polishing and keep the polishing marks the same direction. Then you just have chose how you will blue.
     

  3. MilSurp27

    MilSurp27 New Member

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    Thanks for the input. Why kind of blue do you like best? I have an SKS that I would like to reblue after using my Mosin as a sort of test rifle, seeing as it was $130 to buy.
     
  4. unclebear

    unclebear New Member

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    For bluing things I use PermaBlue, my old man gets them out at work in bulk tubes. It's stupid simple you heat up the metal (you can use a hair drier) you heat it till it's pretty warm to the touch, get you some of it on a brush or what ever your gonna use (I recommend something with a handle so you don't burn yourself, and you just repeat it till you get the desired finish. I used it on my mosin is several places, the bolt, the muzzle crown, and the where the bayonet rubs on the barrel.

    As for other parts of the rifle if you have sticky bolt syndrome go to Iraqvetran8888 channel on youtube and he has a whole thing about that that usually works. I bought a polishing kit for my dremal tool and polished a few different area's on the rifle like most of the trigger and some areas on outer receiver where the bolt rubs.

    Really theirs a bunch of stuff that you can do, like said it's really up to you, your skill, and what the rifle can do.
     
  5. atrbertothy

    atrbertothy New Member

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    If you go to Brownells they have a few kits that you can use for rebluing. These kits don't require you to have tanks like you would need to have for hot bluing or hot rust bluing. The perma blue as well as 44/40 good cold blues to start out with.
     
  6. atrbertothy

    atrbertothy New Member

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    Also when you use these bluing methods make sure you apply the bluing to the surface for the whole length of the barrel or the action. Stops in the length will show up. To hide the lines in the length of the barrel or action use 0000 steel wool with the cold blue on the steel wool. This will blend the bluing. A light touch is needed or you will take the bluing up with the steel wool.
     
  7. srtolly1

    srtolly1 New Member

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    Iraqveteran8888 has good videos for everything Mosin. I prefer PermaBlue to the others you can get a kit that pretty much has what you need.
     
  8. atrbertothy

    atrbertothy New Member

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    I would use what ever is the easy for you to use.
     
  9. BWR13

    BWR13 New Member

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    I use Oxpho-blue with nice results also.
     
  10. MilSurp27

    MilSurp27 New Member

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    I used his videos for refinishing my stock and was most likely going to use his methods for bluing also.
     
  11. Gators

    Gators New Member

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    Bolts were not originally blued on these.

    You'll be lucky to even have a smooth cycle of the action as they were made to withstand the cold russian winters. Think massive gloves, and frozen metal. They would slam open and close these bolts after they had sat idle over night/few days.

    Adding a layer, even though its only so thick, is going to both have wear marks, but also possibly cause a tougher action to cycle on some of them.

    They all will have mix matched bolt components, as they did not track which went to what rifle in the re-arrsenal process in the ukraine. There wasn't originally even a serial number on the bolt components.

    If you have a rough cycling action now, i'd recommend buying a few spares for a couple bucks, and swap pieces around till it cycles smoothly before applying a coat on it.

    Though I can't say i'd want to blue one..
     
  12. Gators

    Gators New Member

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    Oh. Cold blueing really sucks for wear and there. Not recommended on a component like a Mosin bolt.

    It looks different then hot blueing, and it is thinner.

    Think of paint that has water mixed with it...
     
  13. dteed4094

    dteed4094 New Member

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    You can polish the entire bolt to a mirror finish, I did one with buffing compound on a cloth wheel. You don't want to over polish the lock-up surfaces. check the head space, at least after polishing. This does smooth the bolt to some degree. Do not polish the bolt where it mates with the cartridge. Most cold blue works better if you heat the metal to 180 degrees. You have to get the metal ultra clean and not touch it with hands or anything that may have the slightest oil residue on it. Putting it in the oven will heat it more evenly than a heat gun but it may not fit in most ovens. laying it in the hot sun will work also, rotate several times.
     
  14. BillDeShivs

    BillDeShivs Member

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    Regardless of what it says on the package, cold blue is for touch-ups only. It does not hold up, it stinks, and it promotes rust. And it looks terrible.
    If you are going to blue, use a "rust blue." The process is simple, though it takes a while with some effort. It is how the guns were originally blued, looks great, holds up, etc.
    www.brownells.com sells rust bluing chemicals.
    Cold bluing is the mark of a rank amateur.
     
  15. chloeshooter

    chloeshooter New Member

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    I saw one at the range that had been completely buffed/polished everywhere. The metal piece covering the butt of the stock was as shiny as a mirror, it looked very nice.
     
  16. NF50AR

    NF50AR New Member

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    Here is my M44 restoration OP. took about 2 weeks.

    image-4245413541.jpg



    image-3846124102.jpg



    image-357731736.jpg
     
  17. dteed4094

    dteed4094 New Member

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    Bluing wont add any thickness, it oxidizes the metal.