Gripping for recoil control

Discussion in 'General Handgun Discussion' started by slog, Oct 1, 2012.

  1. slog

    slog New Member

    I have read many articles and watched many instructional videos about gripping techniques for recoil control. I'd like to be able to make faster followup shots. Some of the material is conflicting between instructors. Some say to grip as hard as possible, while others say only grip hard enough to control it (like I'm supposed to know how hard that is). It's not even clear to me what they mean by "grip." Am I supposed to be gripping hard with my fingers and thumbs, gripping with force from my palm and opposing fingers, or what?

    The best way for me to control recoil is by locking my elbows, pushing forward into the grip with my palm, and pulling on the opposite side of the grip with my opposing hand. This controls recoil fairly well, but it causes my sights to shake. When I grip hard with my fingers only (no arm influence) the shaking goes away but the recoil affects my followup shots.

    Here's a picture of what my current grip would look like (to some degree)


    So what exactly am I doing wrong, and what do I need to do? I have the general idea of how to actually hold the gun. I have a full wrap with my opposing palm in the empty space on the left side of the grip, and my fingers are wrapped up at an angle to keep both arms even. I generally get on target very fast this way, so I'm getting that right. It's just the recoil control I can't get down.

    Thanks for advise
  2. tCan

    tCan Active Member

    You're doing it right. If you're making fast shots, a little bit of sight shake is expected. After all, you're not exactly threading a needle with rapid fire... Mostly just keep your trigger hand in line with the bore so the recoil is coming straight back.

  3. slog

    slog New Member

    By keeping my trigger hand in line with the bore....

    When I first started shooting I kept the bore going straight back into my thumb. Now I have it switched where the grip is going straight back into the palm (between my thumb and knuckles). In other words, if I make a U with my thumb and fingers, with my thumb even with my fingers, I put the gun straight back into the palm. That leaves a nice space for my opposing palm to get on the grip. Is that good?
  4. tCan

    tCan Active Member

    Your wrist should be straight. You want the force of the recoil going straight into your forearm. Other than that, practice practice practice.
  5. Chainfire

    Chainfire Well-Known Member Supporter

    My advice would be as tight as you can before your hand shakes. The other comments above are also "on target".
  6. BeyondTheBox

    BeyondTheBox New Member

    What I've learned from reading and shooting is to, primarily, grip, with shooting hand, as high and as tight as possible. Put the webbing/cupping of your thumb/forefinger as high as you can against the top of the grip where it meets the slide, avoiding any slide burn, which is easy except for on cheap ROF guns. Put thumb as low as possible on fingers, to ensure tightness, and cover with brace hand, using brace thumb to hold second down and, thusly, tight. The rest is inconsequential and unimportant. Put brace in front of trigger guard or bellow magbutt, who cares, just don't use it to control aim, rather, maintain as simply a brace, other than thumb locking down grip-hand thumb.
  7. downsouth

    downsouth New Member

    ^^^^this is what I was going to say. Start with proper placement in shooting hand.
  8. Old_Crow

    Old_Crow New Member

    I agree! Your wrist needs to be straight. With your current grip you are defeating any chance of becoming an instictive shooter (no sights required). You want your wrist straight just like pointing your finger.

    Cocking that darned thing will help a lot too.
  9. slog

    slog New Member

    I think I see what you mean by keeping my wrist straight, but on the wrong axis. The grip is at too great of an angle to have my wrist level with the slide and my forearm. Doing so would require me to bend my elbow half way almost, or have the gun pointing down almost 45 degrees.

    I'm pretty good at snap shooting. I don't really need the sights that much. They're combat sights so they're not precise like on a target pistol. With the way I hold my arms, as soon as I bring up the gun the front sight is already in the middle. I don't need to look for it. I've been told to focus only on the front sight, not the target or the rear sights at all. Just the front sight. It's very confusing. That's what I've been doing. I don't particularly like combat sights, but this gun is for close-range defense purposes so they'll be sufficient for my needs.
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2012
  10. levelcross

    levelcross New Member

    Looks like you have got the basics right (need to straighten the wrist some), and I agree with most of the above posts. Everyone seems to have a little tweak to their own personal grip, I am no different. I use the thumb of my support hand higher in the frame /slide area. Just what I do differently than the pic of the OP, just watch that if you switch to a wheel gun, it gets a little warm.:eek:
  11. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

    I like a firm grip (like using a hammer). It doesn't bring on the shakes as fast, doesn't get tiring too fast.

    Too loose is not recommended.
    Proper placement is critical.

    But what works for me may not work for you.
  12. canebrake

    canebrake New Member

    Try this;

    • Start at 5 meters (~15')
    • Grip gun with isometric resistance right to left hand. Push with strong side and pull with weak side. [You are shooting two hand, right?] Start out easy and experiment by applying different (but equal fore and aft isometric) pressure's until it starts working. (read: hits on point of aim.)
    • I know this is going to confuse you even more but....with your two hand purchase (squeeze) relax your strong side (trigger hand) 'squeeze' and tighten your weak side until you have a 10% delta. The gun should be held 60% with the weak side purchase and 40% strong side. This relaxes the trigger finger.

    Now for the training. Each time you fill the sight with target, but just before you pull the loud switch, ask yourself;
    • Do I have a clear focus on the front sight?
    • Do i have good isometric balance? (push to pull)
    • Does my weak side hand have control of the 'squeeze'?
    • Is my trigger finger relaxed and properly on the trigger?
    • Do I have a clear focus on the front sight?
    • Start the pull and ALWAYS have the trigger break surprise you. (let it happen, don't "make" it happen) This is your "follow through".

    Trigger pull MUST be;
    1. Deliberate
    2. Linear in pressure

    This is training, NOT a race. Go slow, boringly slow. Speed will come but you must earn it!

    When you become tired of all those bull's eyes, move the target out to 7 meters and start over. See above. ^

    This really works for my students, let me know if it helps you.