Give this a try

Discussion in 'Ammunition & Reloading' started by plasticman, May 12, 2009.

  1. plasticman

    plasticman New Member

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    I know that 10WD40 works great for removing the grime off of handgun and rifle cartridges. So I sprayed my media with the 10WD40 and tumbled a few shells just too see what happens. Like to report that the shells came out nice and shiny and very clean. This will save time as the 10WD40 breaks down the grime alot faster then just the dry media. Give it a try! ;)

    Please note * Do not over spray the media. Just a lite coat over the top. Thats all you need.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2009
  2. 1hole

    1hole New Member

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    "10wd40"

    ???
     

  3. robocop10mm

    robocop10mm Lifetime Supporting Member Lifetime Supporter

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    That is the new detergent motor oil that is guaranteed to loosen your stuck (torqued) head bolts and prevent rust in aluminum block engines.
     
  4. plasticman

    plasticman New Member

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    oh crap.... I mean wd40 sorry LOL

    I gotta put the booze down when Im on the internet :D
     
  5. 1hole

    1hole New Member

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    OKAY, I know what that is!

    You can also add an ounce or so of mineral spirits/oderless paint thinner to the media just before you toss the cases in. Cheaper, same effect.
     
  6. TXnorton

    TXnorton New Member

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    Be very careful with adding any volatile fluids in your tumbler. Be sure the additives do not generate any combustible vapors. The electrical works in the tumblers are not rated for hazardous areas, and COULD result in a explosion or fire!

    TXnorton
     
  7. Going Postal

    Going Postal New Member

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    I reuse my media over and over so I would be kind of leary of putting something like WD40 or mineral spirits into the media. Every once in a while, I pour in a very small amount of Lyman Media Rejuvinator and that seems to do the trick. It is like Brylcreme - a little dab will do ya!:D:D
     
  8. 1hole

    1hole New Member

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    No one suggested using gasoline. Neither WD-40 nor mineral spirits are very volatile, the "fumes" from the liquids themselve will not ignite easily.

    Tumbler motors are induction, not bushed, so no sparks are produced. Few tumblers have internal switches and those that do are well shielded.

    The suggested mild solvents DO help cut case residue and the case cleaning WILL be faster. Fears of a sudden flash fire from using either are on the level of death by the flash floods of Global Warming.
     
  9. hunter Joe

    hunter Joe New Member

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    The fact is that WD40 is great for removing adhesive tape goop and WD40 will take the bluing of your firearm and the stain out of the stock. A can of WD40 should never come within 30 feet of a firearm. I have witness the effects of WD40 on some older firearms and it ain't pretty. Do your firearms a favor and use Rem oil or some other lube made for firearms. I understand that this post is about reloading so this is just a word of caution.
     
  10. RL357Mag

    RL357Mag New Member

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    I wouldn't use any non-reloading type additive to the media. Non-industry additives may affect ignition, burn rate, and chemical composition of powders/primers. Tumbling cases is done to REMOVE residue. Adding oily substances to the media actually DEPOSITS residue, even though you may not see or feel it. I have found over the years that additives, even approved additives, make the media "clump" over time and even allow it to bind to the inside of cases, making it a chore to remove. Fresh media works better than old media with an additive.
     
  11. TXnorton

    TXnorton New Member

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    1hole:

    You will get an electrical arc when you unplug that tumbler. My advice is just to be careful, and don't take unnecessary risks.

    TXnorton
     
  12. stalkingbear

    stalkingbear Well-Known Member

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    I've got a problem with using wd40. I've had literally dozens of guns brought to me over the years from them being all gummed up by the constant use of wd40 on them. After awhile, wd40 will form a film on everything and start to build up. That's why I would NEVER use it in a tumbler where it would go inside of the cases. Too much chance of contaminating the powder, causing different rate of burn or even incomplete burn.
     
  13. 1hole

    1hole New Member

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    "My advice is just to be careful, and don't take unnecessary risks."

    Thank you for your advice.

    I'm a retired electronics tech from the space and defence industries who also served the last 7 years of my work life as the industrial safety officer for a government research facilty. I am careful, I do know what I'm doing, I am fully aware of "sparks" and solvent vapors and I don't take any "unnecessary risks." But I can recommend the use of mineral spirits/oderless paint thinner in a tumbler and would not suggest it if it were not both safe and harmless.

    I agree that WD40 added to the media will help cut crud. But it will also do everything stalkingbear says, it will evaporate and leave a stubborn light brown "varnish."

    Mineral spirits/paint thinner in the media will not hurt anything. It will evaporate out of the media in three-four days, leaving everything exactly as it was before it was added.

    Every one will fear what they wish, including such trivia as the gobal warming farce, asbestos, radon gas, holes in ozone layers, mineral spirits in media, etc.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2009
  14. willfully armed

    willfully armed New Member

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    Buy the man a beer! Hes exceedingly correct!



    there are lemon juice concoctions all over the NET that makes brass shinier than new. Leave the solvents in the garage!
     
  15. BILLYBOB44

    BILLYBOB44 Active Member

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    Vapors and ground corn cobs==ever see a grain bin fire??:eek::mad:
     
  16. Rick1967

    Rick1967 Well-Known Member

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    I reload as a hobby. So time is not wasted on small tasks. I have found that if I am picking up rare brass, like 8mm mauser, or 7.62 x 39, the most horribly tarnished brass looks like brand new after a few seconds with some brasso and a rag. I do it by hand, and only on the outside of the case. Really, it can be black, and it looks like new in just a few seconds. I don't mind spending 5 minutes to recover 20 or 30 rounds of brass.

    I wouldn't waste my time doing a bunch of 9mm. But reloadable sks and 8mm mauser is hard to come by.
     
  17. J T Patriot

    J T Patriot New Member

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    Anyone ever tried adding something dry like bartenders friend or brasso to the media? Just looking for something better than corn cob media.
     
  18. TXnorton

    TXnorton New Member

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    I have two tumblers. I keep one filled with the red "jeweler's rouge" type media and one filled with the green Lyman tumbling media. I usually run all of my range pick-up brass through the red stuff first to get the seriously tarnished brass cleaned up, then I'll cycle it through the green stuff for a final polish. I still have to toss a few of the grungier stained cases, I don't waste my time hand polishing as I can usually pick up more brass than I'll ever need.

    I will often hand wash really dirty brass in a plastic tub with HOT water and dish detergent first.
     
  19. jpattersonnh

    jpattersonnh Active Member

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    I've used Corncob and Walnut media. The walnut takes much less time. I really don't care if my brass is shiny like a mirror. Clean is good! Adding anything to corn media seems to break it down faster. The Walnut lasts much longer.
    I have a buddy who is a real cheap bastard. He tried birdseed, worked pretty good, but the small seeds would get stuck in the primer pocket of large Pistol and rifle cartridges. He found that Agway carried a 50lb bag of Corn cob media bedding, that is what he uses now. Costs about 1/2 the price as standard cob media. I like walnut.
     
  20. Highpower

    Highpower New Member

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    WD-40 can contain up to 35% "Petroleum based oil" depending on the particular formula (bulk, aerosol, or pump spray). Not an ingredient that I want inside my cartridge cases personally. Check out the MSDS sheets for specifics. ;)

    Anyone buying commercial media from gun/sporting goods stores etc is throwing their money away IMO. You can pick up bags of untreated walnut or corncob media at the local pet store on sale and save yourself a lot of cash. (Bird & reptile bedding/litter.)
    Even better is to look in your local "Yellow Pages" and find "metal finishing" suppliers. Those that sell "sand blasting" materials. I buy corncob and walnut media in 50 lb. bags for about 1/3 of what "Lyman" media sells for.

    If you want a highly polished shine on your cases simply add a couple teaspoons of this Frankford Arsenal Brass Case Polish 8 oz Liquid - MidwayUSA in your "untreated" media, and it works just as well as the high dollar Lyman media.