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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,i will need to cold blue a barrel of my CZ .22,i have acces to Super Blue and i am trying to import oxpho blue (I am from Brazil and the products are hard to get) I will list the steps i read about below and please CORRECT MY WRONG POINTS.
1- Great polish with sandpaper and blue and rust remover
2- Degrease with cleaner and degreaser and / or Acetone
3- Apply Super Blue or Oxpho Blue with cotton balls on all barrel surface
4-Wait 1 -2 minutes and rinse with water or use a very wet cotton t short to stop the product action
5- Use a 0000 steel wool softly on the barrel
6- Degrease with cleaner and degreaser and/or Acetone
7- Apply a second coat of Super Blue or Oxpho Blue with cotton balls on all barrel surface
8-Wait 1 -2 minutes and rinse with water or use a very wet cotton t short to stop the product action
9-Use AGAIN a 0000 steel wool softly on the barrel
10-Degrease with cleaner and degreaser and/or Acetone
11-Apply a third coat of Super Blue or Oxpho Blue with cotton balls on all barrel surface
12-Wait 1 -2 minutes and rinse with water or use a very wet cotton t short to stop the product action
13-Use AGAIN a 0000 steel wool softly on the barrel
Please correct my wrong steps,it will be a first time and one more doubt:
Is the use of 0000 steel wool the last move?
PLEASE,ALL THE CORRECTION WILL BE VERY WELCOME,I AM FROM BRAZIL AND THE GUNSMITHS AND GUNSMITHING PRODUCTS HERE HAVE IMPORT RESTRICTIONS (NOT THE CASE OF COLD BLUEING PRODUCTS)
Thank you very much
Diego
 

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Welcome to the group Diego .
Looks like you have the process down well .
In my opinion the last step is a day or two soak in oil .
Have you ever looked into rust blueing ?
All blueing processes can be found on UTUBE .
The videos have really helped me a lot with different processes .
Good luck .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the group Diego .
Looks like you have the process down well .
In my opinion the last step is a day or two soak in oil .
Have you ever looked into rust blueing ?
All blueing processes can be found on UTUBE .
The videos have really helped me a lot with different processes .
Good luck .
Ron,thank you very much
My biggest problem is that in Brazil the restriction for everything related to guns are terrific,some products we need to pay 200% of import fees and some are restricted,even some tools and reloadong dies are restricted (you need a permit to import that takes 1 year to be approved) and plus the import taxes.i am a collector/shooter/hunter and you can not imagine all the burocracy i have to follow,my register(Yes,i need an authorization to collect and be a sporting shooter or hunter) this register expires every 2 years,there are random phisical inspections on my collection and i can only buy ammo from one brazilian manufacturer that charge us almost 4 dollars for each 9mm round. The hunting regulations are even harder.
Having guns in Brazil are for “sick”people like me
Last question:
The last move before soakin in oil is really the soft rub of 0000 steel wool?
THANK YOU VERY MUCH,you have no idea how helpfull every tip is
I will take a look at the videos you said
 

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Ron,thank you very much
My biggest problem is that in Brazil the restriction for everything related to guns are terrific,some products we need to pay 200% of import fees and some are restricted,even some tools and reloadong dies are restricted (you need a permit to import that takes 1 year to be approved) and plus the import taxes.i am a collector/shooter/hunter and you can not imagine all the burocracy i have to follow,my register(Yes,i need an authorization to collect and be a sporting shooter or hunter) this register expires every 2 years,there are random phisical inspections on my collection and i can only buy ammo from one brazilian manufacturer that charge us almost 4 dollars for each 9mm round. The hunting regulations are even harder.
Having guns in Brazil are for “sick”people like me
Last question:
The last move before soakin in oil is really the soft rub of 0000 steel wool?
THANK YOU VERY MUCH,you have no idea how helpfull every tip is
I will take a look at the videos you said
Yes it is called carding . Just really lightly .
Look around the net to find make your own blueing with commonly found things too . Word of caution ....... test all blueing on scrap metal first .
Also the 0000 wool has oil in it new in the box so decrease it before carding the blueing .
Sorry to hear it is so tough there to persue a great hobby .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes it is called carding . Just really lightly .
Look around the net to find make your own blueing with commonly found things too . Word of caution ....... test all blueing on scrap metal first .
Also the 0000 wool has oil in it new in the box so decrease it before carding the blueing .
Sorry to hear it is so tough there to persue a great hobby .
Ron
Thank you very much,your help is priceless
Thanks
 

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Cold bluing can be like kissing your cousin- it is not great, but it is still a kiss. 😛

In addition to the the advice of Old Ron- warming the metal slightly can help some. Warming as in a hair dryer or laying in the sun before bluing. And again, you may want to think about rust bluing. It takes time, but can be a very simple process.

E bem-vindos ao fórum, ainda bem que nos encontraram. Temos membros de várias nações, mas tivemos apenas alguns da América do Sul.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cold bluing can be like kissing your cousin- it is not great, but it is still a kiss. 😛

In addition to the the advice of Old Ron- warming the metal slightly can help some. Warming as in a hair dryer or laying in the sun before bluing. And again, you may want to think about rust bluing. It takes time, but can be a very simple process.

E bem-vindos ao fórum, ainda bem que nos encontraram. Temos membros de várias nações, mas tivemos apenas alguns da América do Sul.
Thank you very much,is s great pleasure to have the opportunity of learning from all of you.I follow the advice
Thank you
 

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Dabito
First of all welcome to the Firearms Talk Forum from us and we here in Tennessee!

C-3 and Ron are on the Money
And C-s Hair Dryer advise is worth Gold. Heat it up good and then apply the Bluing with the Cotton Balls. It ,makes all the difference in the World. In the AR-15/16 Armorer Schools I teach. To touch up a spot on the Black Anodized ar-15 and 16 Receivers we use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish. I use Brake and Parts Cleaner in the Spray Can to remove any oil on the part.(Be sure it is the Non-Flammable Cleaner!) ****Don't need no fires while heating the Receiver.)
I then take a long wood 6 in. sticked" Q Tip Pipe Cleaner from Brownells. Heat the Receiver area with a small Butane Hobby Torch. (From a Hardware Store) Then holding the flame about 3 inches from the surface of the Receiver heat it and apply the Aluma-Black with the Q Tip, as I am heating it carefully until I get the desired coverup.
Then apply lubricant back to the area since it will have none. I use G-96 in the spray can to lube the Receiver.
* So heat does help a bunch. Along with your mentioned process. Good Luck!
Send us some pictures when you get through! :)

03
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Dabito
First of all welcome to the Firearms Talk Forum from us and we here in Tennessee!

C-3 and Ron are on the Money
And C-s Hair Dryer advise is worth Gold. Heat it up good and then apply the Bluing with the Cotton Balls. It ,makes all the difference in the World. In the AR-15/16 Armorer Schools I teach. To touch up a spot on the Black Anodized ar-15 and 16 Receivers we use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish. I use Brake and Parts Cleaner in the Spray Can to remove any oil on the part.(Be sure it is the Non-Flammable Cleaner!) ****Don't need no fires while heating the Receiver.)
I then take a long wood 6 in. sticked" Q Tip Pipe Cleaner from Brownells. Heat the Receiver area with a small Butane Hobby Torch. (From a Hardware Store) Then holding the flame about 3 inches from the surface of the Receiver heat it and apply the Aluma-Black with the Q Tip, as I am heating it carefully until I get the desired coverup.
Then apply lubricant back to the area since it will have none. I use G-96 in the spray can to lube the Receiver.
* So heat does help a bunch. Along with your mentioned process. Good Luck!
Send us some pictures when you get through! :)

03
Sniper,i hope i will do the work nect weekend,i still depend on mail to delivery some products needed and mail service in Brazil would be faster if done by message pigeons
Thank you
 

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Sounds great!

03
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ron
Thank you very much,your help is priceless
Thanks
Hi,lete make one more question:
Using Super Blue or Oxpho Blue,what should i do or do not to avoid the bright,shine finish?
I do prefer the matte finish
One more time thank you very much
 

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Bluing itself does not impart a shine to the metal. That is the quality of how the metal is polished. If the metal is polished to a mirror finish (example: buffing the metal with jeweler's rouge) the blued gun will be high gloss. Polished to a lesser degree, less shiny.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bluing itself does not impart a shine to the metal. That is the quality of how the metal is polished. If the metal is polished to a mirror finish (example: buffing the metal with jeweler's rouge) the blued gun will be high gloss. Polished to a lesser degree, less shiny.
Thank you very much
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dabito
First of all welcome to the Firearms Talk Forum from us and we here in Tennessee!

C-3 and Ron are on the Money
And C-s Hair Dryer advise is worth Gold. Heat it up good and then apply the Bluing with the Cotton Balls. It ,makes all the difference in the World. In the AR-15/16 Armorer Schools I teach. To touch up a spot on the Black Anodized ar-15 and 16 Receivers we use Birchwood Casey Aluma-Black Metal Finish. I use Brake and Parts Cleaner in the Spray Can to remove any oil on the part.(Be sure it is the Non-Flammable Cleaner!) ****Don't need no fires while heating the Receiver.)
I then take a long wood 6 in. sticked" Q Tip Pipe Cleaner from Brownells. Heat the Receiver area with a small Butane Hobby Torch. (From a Hardware Store) Then holding the flame about 3 inches from the surface of the Receiver heat it and apply the Aluma-Black with the Q Tip, as I am heating it carefully until I get the desired coverup.
Then apply lubricant back to the area since it will have none. I use G-96 in the spray can to lube the Receiver.
* So heat does help a bunch. Along with your mentioned process. Good Luck!
Send us some pictures when you get through! :)

03
Friends...,heres the rookie bothering all of you again,i just got a heat gun from my brother
What temperature should i heat the barrel before applying Super Blue or OxPho Blue?
Thanks s lot
 

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Warm to the touch- not blistering heat. And you can be assured your questions are not a bother- that's why we HAVE a forum- to talk about guns.
 

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Dabrito, you are getting some great advice from these guys !
Your questions are fine here, Welcome to the group !
 

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Like C3 said the blueing doesn't make the shine .
If you polish to get fine marks out & end up with a high gloss metal you can bring that back down with 0000 wool or 700 paper . What you see with white metal is what you will get after any blueing process . With cold blue like you are useing jut take long even stokes with the blue . Watch for to much overlap . The more coats the deeper the black will get . For a mat finish you may want to look into parkerizing for another gun .
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Like C3 said the blueing doesn't make the shine .
If you polish to get fine marks out & end up with a high gloss metal you can bring that back down with 0000 wool or 700 paper . What you see with white metal is what you will get after any blueing process . With cold blue like you are useing jut take long even stokes with the blue . Watch for to much overlap . The more coats the deeper the black will get . For a mat finish you may want to look into parkerizing for another gun .
Thank you very much,i will follow it
 
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