Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'AR-15 Discussion' started by dalefan88, Aug 27, 2013.
View attachment 115979
How do I put a bipod on this it's a bushmaster. It has no rails.
Check out this thread:
If your rifles hand guard doesn't have the single or double hand guard heat shield that blocks the cooling holes there is an adapter you can install on the lower hand guard that will sticks out of the venting holes and you will have a stud like most bolt actions have to mount a Harris bipod. That is what I did with my Colt 6600 HB. Just Google Harris bipod adapter for AR 15.
If you choose to go with a Harris get one with the swivel and without the notched legs so you can adjust the tilt in any position on uneven ground so you not limited to the positions of the fixed notches which usually don't get you to a level position in my experience. I learned that to late after I had bought my first Harris with notched legs an had problem getting the rifle leveled.
Thank you for the info.
What samnev said. Even if you do have the double heat shield you should still be able to attach the adapter. You can remover the heat shields, install the adapter, and the reinstall the heat shields. However, I don't believe Bushmaster uses double heat shields.
Just installed bipod on Stag model 1
I too, am putting a bipod on my first AR, which is a Stag Model 1.
I have just put a scope on it (Nikon P-223 3-9 x 40 w/600 BDC) and wanted a bipod on it to eliminate the need for a bench rest. And, I wanted to get the A2 iron sight off so it doesn't degrade the scope image. It's well out of focus, but it does mask a significant portion of the objective lens area, and will case diffraction/blurring in addition to the light reduction.
The AR has a carbine handguard (now a Magpul MOE) and I wanted to keep the limited gripping area of that handguard uncluttered and pic rail free.
So I chose to replace the A2 iron sight with a YHM gas block that has pic rails on top and bottom. It's a steel unit, which clamps over the barrel. It is split horizontally, and has 4 cap screws to clamp it together. The mating halves do not meet in the center, so all the clamping pressure is applied to the barrel.
The removal of the A2 went well. Note to others;the tapered pins on an A2 gas block/sight do not necessarily go in right to left (as is indicated in several youtube videos). Mine go in left to right, and it was easy to determine that by using a dial caliper on the exposed ends. In my case, once the pins moved a small amount, they popped out. If you are going the right direction, the friction on the pin drops rapidly as the taper loses contact with the block.
So now I have a Harris bipod which clamps up (via an adapter) to the bottom pic rail on the new gas block. It looks good, and feels solid. I'll be going to the range tomorrow morning to sight in the scope.
But, I got to thinking. The bipod can exert a significant amount of torque on the gas block. My gas block is steel, and clamps tightly to the barrel. So I'm hoping it won't loosen up.
But I can imagine that it could well be a problem with a single piece, aluminum gas block which is retained by set screws. The aluminum is going to expand more than the barrel, and that will tend to release some of the gripping pressure of the set screws. That, in combination with torqueing on it by the bipod would seem like a good potential for problems.
Has anyone experienced having their gas blocks loosen or move due to torque imposed from a bipod attached to the block.
I did not replace the forearm. I like the A2 and enhanced it instead.
I installed a 'tapered' rail onto my A2 forearm.
I didn't like the way that the mounting screws and square nuts blocked the vent holes.
Refer to normal Delta Ring Handguard removal information found elsewhere.
I chose to
1. Remove the Aluminum heat shield.
2. Temporarily mount with supplied screws and square nuts.
3. Drill new pilot holes between outboard vent holes, through forearm, marking rail.
4. Removed supplied hardware and rail.
5. Blind drill the rail and bottom tap (my pilot was drilled through)
6. Full size new holes the forearm
7. Remount rail with new fasteners at new locations using Loctite.
8. Replaced heat shield and remounted A2 forearm, under retainer and delta ring.
While I mounted it on top for a 45degree light, you will want it on the bottom for your Picatiny to Bipod adapter.
Note that you can rotate your handguard, top or bottom in the future.
I have this one and love it. Dont buy from these people though. You can get one for half the price if you shop around. Its a whole lot more solid than the ones that pop out of the bottom of the grip.
I was looking at those to. Amazon has a bunch of different ones.
I'm a fan of lightweight ARs so adding a bipod is pretty low on my list. No doubt there are uses but the thing is going to add weight in the wrong place. And if you add a light, which you should, you're really muzzle heavy. Besides, the magazine you already have makes a decent monopod! Really, how often are you going to use the thing?
If you're sold on it, think QD mount!
Dont get the one that has the feet pop out from the bottom. Those are junk. Pay a little more and get the one like I showed you. I got mine for around $50 and love it.
I use a bipod because due to all the clean living when I was younger I tend to shake a bit. It helps my consistancy from that position. Using the forgrip helps me when standing. I used to be able to hit 4 out of 5 dead center at 300 plus yards consistently. Those days are gone but I still do just fine with the right crutches.
Build your gun to suit YOU.
For me? No bipod on a 5.56 AR. Maybe on a 7.62 AR-10 though. Just my own preference.