First 10/22 plus Barska scope

Discussion in '.22 Rifle/Rimfire Discussion' started by TankTop, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. TankTop

    TankTop Well-Known Member Supporter

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    As the title states, got a basic 10/22 for myself for Christmas, got a great deal at a local gun show. Last Sunday went to another show and got a great deal on a Barska Huntmaster 3-9x40 scope.I didn't bother leveling the scope just eyeballed it as I doubt I'll ever shoot over 100 yards with it. Anyway, off to the range this morning to sight it in, wish me luck... Oh bye the way I've never done this before, gonna go with the guesstamation method :eek:
     
  2. TankTop

    TankTop Well-Known Member Supporter

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    ImageUploadedByFirearms Talk1389195217.821763.jpg

    Almost forgot photos
     

  3. TankTop

    TankTop Well-Known Member Supporter

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    ImageUploadedByFirearms Talk1389213035.589428.jpg

    Slowly walked it in

    ImageUploadedByFirearms Talk1389213086.021491.jpg

    Then had a couple flyers... Then noticed my rail was slightly loose. I was worried I was going to over torque the screws.
     
  4. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    With the high mounts on your gun you will need zero the scope in at 60/75 yards. If you don't it will shoot high at 60/75 yards. 100 yards is a great shot with a 22 LR. High velocity 22 LR (CCI Mini Mag) ammo drops over 6" at 100 yards. Somewhere around 75/80 yards the 22 LR throws the anchor out.

    You need to work on your breathing. Get the crosshairs real close - Tighten up on the trigger- exhale -aim - squeeze.

    That is a very nice gun you have. Take the gun riding in a vehicle. If the scope drifts, return it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  5. JTJ

    JTJ Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Use some blue Locktite on the mounting screws for the base. The stock is designed for iron sights so it has too much drop for a scope. Padding the stock for a better cheek weld will help. Lower rings would get the scope a little lower and require less padding. You should be able to shoulder the rifle with your eyes closed and be looking at the reticle when you open them with out shifting your head. Hard to do with a factory stock.
     
  6. TankTop

    TankTop Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Thanks for the advice, nothing like slapping something together and shooting it to figure out what's wrong. That and both of your comments line up perfectly with what I experienced today. I think the first thing I need are some low pro scope rings, a good cheek weld was impossible. I know the receiver is aluminum and I don't want to strip it, finger tight then 1/4 turn more plus locktight?

    Question, you think low profile scope rings and the hogue over molded stock will get it lined up a bit better?
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2014
  7. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    Try to find an inch pound torque wrench. Your scope will be much more consistent with all the screws tightened properly. Weaver publishes a list of the amount of torque each screw should have on it. 20 inch pounds would be about right for the base. The rings also get 20 inch lb. The quick detach screws should get 60 inch lb. I would check weavers list to make sure I am correct. You can get an inch pound wrench at harbor freight for a reasonable price. You should also use the torque wrench when you assemble your gun after cleaning. Otherwise you will have to set the scope each and every time you clean the gun. The ring that holds the barrel is not so important but the screw that goes through the bottom of the stock into the receiver should be tightened the same each and every time.

    One last thing, never use a torque wrench to loosen screws.
     
  8. vincent

    vincent New Member

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    I'll second the blue Loctite...

    Had the exact same problem when I scoped mine, worrying about over tightening and it came loose at the range...:mad: Very frustrating but a good learning experience...

    The blue is removable, the red is permanent...(ish)

    Good lookin' gun and nice shootin'...congrats!! :cool:
     
  9. John_Deer

    John_Deer New Member

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    For scope mounts locktite is best. For things that you will remove fingernail polish is a better alternative. In time locktite will strip the threads on things you take off and replace.
     
  10. jjfuller1

    jjfuller1 New Member

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    you can also use nail polish... ive it used it on 2 rifles now.. works great.. but can be easily broken free if ever needed.. i was very impressed.
     
  11. Hookeye

    Hookeye Active Member

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    If you are handy, you can make a cheekpiece for darn near nothing.
    or you can buy slip on or stick on types for about $30 or so.
    .22 rifle? Might just get some hefty foam (kinda like ethafoam) and whittle it, double side tape or Velcro it to the top.

    Not a permanent mod, no stock damage, and you can experiment and see what your setup (gun and face) prefer ;)
     
  12. Curlyjoe_99

    Curlyjoe_99 New Member

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    I'll Offer this...

    If you do strip out your base holes onto the receiver, don't fret, get the next size screw with a tap and put them into the receiver. I believe the replacements are 8x32. some sites sold them as a kit when I was looking. just be sure to file down the screws so they fit flush with the inside of the receiver when installed. Any protrusion and the screws will contact the bolt when it cycles. sometimes it won't catch when manually moving it, but when firing at the range. I also used nail polish as I had left the cap off my locktite blue, and the ring base has been set in the same place for more than 5 yrs now.
    Hope this helps.