Firearm Painting - Unanswered Questions

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by ACRhino, Oct 26, 2011.

  1. ACRhino

    ACRhino New Member

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    Ok so I have read a lot of posts here on firearm painting as well as on other sites and I have some questions regarding the process and materials that I haven’t seen answered and that was kind of surprising to me. I figured I would lump them all into one thread here and hopefully some super brain painter artist type guy/gal will be able to answer them.

    To start this off, there is no need to talk about prep work … I get it … do a good job, it’s all in the prep … this is more about products and materials.

    The gun … Mossberg 500 tactical with pistol grip and adjustable stalk with shell holder. The reason to paint … I want to change it form the stock black to a tan/brown/green for turkey hunting.

    The questions/Products:

    Krylon paint – So most of the walkthroughs or posts have been with folks who used Krylon paint. There is a really good one here … Here … that I liked, so my questions are:
    1. How durable is it? If I fire 6 shots in a row will it cook of the barrel and ruin?
    2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
    3. Would some type of clear acrylic sealer help?
    4. After the paint is applied and dried … several days for instance … does it feel sticky or tacky or rub off like a cheaply painted model?
    5. Does it ‘harm’ the firearm in anyway?
    6. Can it be removed without harming the firearm?

    Duracoat – some sites point to duracoat … but this seems like a pain in the ***.
    1. You need an airbrush or something to mix the chemicals in and spray it on … isn’t some of those things expensive for a once time use?
    2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
    3. Will it cook off if the gun is fired rapidly?
    4. How do you clean up after painting … I hear you need special cleaning materials?

    Durabake – this was another option.
    1. So you need to bake this crap at 350 for an hour … wont that MELT the plastics on the gun? Even 180 for 3-4 hours should render the stalk, forearm, etc a puddle of plastic on the bottom of the oven.
    2. Cleaning … can you even clean the gun? What happens if you get Hoppes or something on the barrel? On the stalk or forearm? Is it better to use something like Simple Green to clean?
    3. Will it cook off under rapid fire?

    So I’m not looking to enter my firearm in a beauty contest, I just want it to be more natural looking in the woods while hunting, but I don’t want to f**k it up in the process or ruin it either.

    Any practical real world hints, tips, answers?

    Thanks in advance guys/gals.
     
  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells. Air drying. So far, I've had good results.
     

  3. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    :DACRhino, i have had great results with the Krylon Camo paints, one of my rifles has two years with no flaking or chipping. preparation is the key factor, no matter what you intend to use for a coating. beings as you are just doing a shotgun for hunting, i would recommend the Krylon Camo paint. i have even used it on the rocker panels of my truck, and going through mud, woods and the carwash have not chipped or flaked it yet. i recently tried the black Krylon Camo on the barrel of a 22 rifle, so far so good. first thing is to make sure the surface is very clean of any oils or fingerprints. i use different products to clean with, but the final cleaning is done with alcohol and lint free cloths. lightly scuff the surfaces with 3M scotchbrites (available at most auto parts stores) or fine steelwool. clean again. wipe down with alcohol again. then wipe down with a tack cloth. on the plastic or synthetic parts, spray a very light coat of adhesion promoter (again available at the auto parts store) let dry for at least an hour. then spray whatever color you want for the base, at least two light coats and let dry at least 15 minutes between coats. then just spray your pattern however you like. i make my own stencils to do this. on the metal, heat the metal with a propane torch, very lightly, just to warm the metal, then lay your base color down, then follow up with your other colors in your pattern. like i said i have been very pleased with the results so far. very durable, non glare finish and dry, not tacky at all. let your parts dry at least 24 hours before putting them back together. good luck.
     

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  4. ACRhino

    ACRhino New Member

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    Nice pics and all but still no real questions were answered.
     
  5. bkt_tater

    bkt_tater New Member

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    Here are a few pictures of my guns that I painted. I used krylon camo paint. It has not chipped or anything. I use hoppes bore cleaner in the barrel and on the action. Haven't had a problem with over spray messing up the paint or anything. I just use a moist rag to wipe down the parts that are painted. As to your question about paint messing up when shooting, I took the rifle to a "range" and shot about 20 round in about 30 minutes and the barrel was burning hot and the paint is holding up very well.
     

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  6. rjd3282

    rjd3282 New Member

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    I've used duracoat and gun cleaning solvents don't bother it. Airbrushes aren't difficult to use but I highly recommend you use a a good one. I tried cheap and it gives very poor results. You wouldn't paint your car with an aerosol can would you?

    Like everything else quality is the way to go.
     
  7. OzarkRecluse

    OzarkRecluse New Member

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    The difference between paints such as Aluma Hyde II and Duracoat and you're typical rattle can paints like Krylon, High Temp engin, BBQ, etc is that Aluma Hyde and Duracoat are expoxy paints. When they're cured they're very tough.

    You just have to be patient on the curing process on both. I usually let anything I paint sit for about 3 weeks.
     
  8. Axxe55

    Axxe55 The Apocalypse Is Coming.....

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    i agree that epoxy paints are somewhat tougher when cured, but paint preparation is key to any type of painting. plus epoxy paints are thicker. like i said before, one of my rifles has been done and used for about two years and no chipping or flaking yet. i don't abuse my guns, but i don't baby them either. plus even if they do get scratched up, i can touch them up very easily.
     
  9. roscoguy

    roscoguy New Member

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    If you decide to go with paint, do yourself a favor: spray a piece of scrap wood, let it dry fully & then hit it with every cleaner and oil you are likely to use on the actual gun. My favorite CLP ate right through the paint job I did on a synthetic stock. :(
     
  10. Montaktical

    Montaktical New Member

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    Re: Duracoat

    I do alot of Duracoat work. I have never played with krylon or any of the other products out there so I have no comparison for you. I can give you some duracoat tips if thats a route your thinking. First off, it is very durable if as you mentioned, the prep is good. Thats why I first started playing with it because I didnt trust spray paint. You do need an airbrush and that could be the downfall if its a onetime thing for you. I would recommend an Iwata HP-CS. They sell a starter kit with a compressor, the brush, etc. at TCP Global. 2nd, you need some cheap metal measuring spoons. (Bed Bath and Beyond for 6 bucks) Thats how you measure your hardner to Paint ratio. Mix it up, pour it into the brush, and off you go. anymore questions feel free to ask. You can check out some of my projects at Montaktical MTAK Duracoat I will be adding a bunch more on their soon. You can also email me if you need anymore help.
     
  11. jeepejeep

    jeepejeep New Member

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    I used this on 2 of my rifles. No problems with chipping, peeling or chemicals. No air brush to worry about either.
    DuraCoat Shake 'N Spray
    I've also had great results with this:
    Shotgun & Rifle Mossy Oak® Camo Gun Kit
    If you want a great camo job that's not hard to do use this. Just follow the instructions on their web site.
     
  12. ACRhino

    ACRhino New Member

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    That is a good suggestion.
     
  13. ACRhino

    ACRhino New Member

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    On the Shake 'N Spray stuff, how did that work? I assume if you are using 3-4 different colors you need to mix the stuff up all at once after putting on your base coat. How long does the stuff last mixed in the aersol? Once you are ready to spray a few colors do you have like a 30 minute frenzy to get it done before the mixed paint in the aersol hardens? Do you have a walkthrough or can you give me a summary of how you did it how long it took?
     
  14. jeepejeep

    jeepejeep New Member

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    It lasts after mixing about 2 weeks or so. There's no huge rush to get it sprayed for fear of it hardening up on you. I only used one color so I can't answer that one.
    The process is pretty basic. Degrease using the stuff supplied in the kit, mask off anything you don't want to paint. Mix the paint as instructed, attach the propellant can and spray just like a rattle can. Start to finish it took about 2 1/2 hours but as I said, I was using one color. I'd imagine you'd need to spray your base color, let it dry then spray your other colors letting each dry.
    This is the Duracoat web site. you may find more info here:
    DuraCoat Firearm Finishes