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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Out of my personal collection.

I've never DuraCoated a Glock frame before. I've done polymer plenty of times, but every company has a slightly different blend on their poly.

I was also surprised how easy it was to completely disassemble the Glock (slide, frame, and sights) - leaves me scratching my head on people who buy the "glock tool". I also am left wondering how hard is the official Glock Armorer course, considering I did everything with common garage hand tools without damaging or scratching anything.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just hit lightly with some 600 I believe.

Polymer is already quite porous IMO. Polymers are great to work with. (not the super slick kind, but the textured kind like the Glock and Magpul are good examples)
 

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Looks great good job!
 

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I was going to take the Glock armorers course. Until I found out that if I would install any non Glock part my certification would be revoked. I am a fan of the Ghost trigger kit.
 

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Was look into duracoating my xdm but I seen on YouTube that it comes off in time. So I was wondering is it just there prep job or is it the duracoat because I was wanting to do this my self or just pay my local shop to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DuraCoat is just as durable as any other finish on the market. If the finish fails its due to improper mixing or poor prep work.

You see more complaints on DuraCoat because it is probably the least noob friendly finish on the market.
 

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Your prep, im assuming you de-greased the gun first? Then 400-600g sand paper did you use a tac cloth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is correct in most cases - if its aluminum or steel I will actually do a light media blast and soak it in acetone for a short while after the degrease stage.

Any sanding I do is very light, just enough to scuff up the surface.

In the case of the glock frame (and most Magpul products) I simply rub it with a scotch bright pad, degrease it, and go - the texture of their polymer is very rough in its inherit design.
 

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This is correct in most cases - if its aluminum or steel I will actually do a light media blast and soak it in acetone for a short while after the degrease stage.

Any sanding I do is very light, just enough to scuff up the surface.

In the case of the glock frame (and most Magpul products) I simply rub it with a scotch bright pad, degrease it, and go - the texture of their polymer is very rough in its inherit design.
tl


Green scotch bright too much? Im getting a glock this weekend. Ima experiment with the colors.
 

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Did you take the triger and slide lock ect off or just take it off really good? Picked up my 29 today.
 

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I figured the more I looked at it. Behind the triger and under the slide lock would have been tough. Not to mention getting paint on the inside.
 
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