Entire Glock 17 in ACU Light Tan

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by DuraCoater, Mar 7, 2013.

  1. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    Out of my personal collection.

    I've never DuraCoated a Glock frame before. I've done polymer plenty of times, but every company has a slightly different blend on their poly.

    I was also surprised how easy it was to completely disassemble the Glock (slide, frame, and sights) - leaves me scratching my head on people who buy the "glock tool". I also am left wondering how hard is the official Glock Armorer course, considering I did everything with common garage hand tools without damaging or scratching anything.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    I like that a lot. What grit sandpaper did you use on the frame?
     

  3. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    I just hit lightly with some 600 I believe.

    Polymer is already quite porous IMO. Polymers are great to work with. (not the super slick kind, but the textured kind like the Glock and Magpul are good examples)
     
  4. sdiver35

    sdiver35 New Member

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    Looks great good job!
     
  5. Mongo

    Mongo Active Member Supporter

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    I was going to take the Glock armorers course. Until I found out that if I would install any non Glock part my certification would be revoked. I am a fan of the Ghost trigger kit.
     
  6. austin92

    austin92 New Member

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    So I ship you my gun and it comes back like this? :)
     
  7. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    Alas I am not a FFL holder, but as long as its not a frame or lower receiver... lol
     
  8. FATface

    FATface New Member

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    Was look into duracoating my xdm but I seen on YouTube that it comes off in time. So I was wondering is it just there prep job or is it the duracoat because I was wanting to do this my self or just pay my local shop to do it.
     
  9. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    DuraCoat is just as durable as any other finish on the market. If the finish fails its due to improper mixing or poor prep work.

    You see more complaints on DuraCoat because it is probably the least noob friendly finish on the market.
     
  10. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    Your prep, im assuming you de-greased the gun first? Then 400-600g sand paper did you use a tac cloth?
     
  11. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    This is correct in most cases - if its aluminum or steel I will actually do a light media blast and soak it in acetone for a short while after the degrease stage.

    Any sanding I do is very light, just enough to scuff up the surface.

    In the case of the glock frame (and most Magpul products) I simply rub it with a scotch bright pad, degrease it, and go - the texture of their polymer is very rough in its inherit design.
     
  12. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    tl


    Green scotch bright too much? Im getting a glock this weekend. Ima experiment with the colors.
     
  13. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    No that is fine, just enough to take the gloss out of the plastic is a good indicator.
     
  14. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    Did you take the triger and slide lock ect off or just take it off really good? Picked up my 29 today.
     
  15. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    Tape it up really good*
     
  16. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    No, the parts were physically removed.
     
  17. Ryadew3468

    Ryadew3468 New Member

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    I figured the more I looked at it. Behind the triger and under the slide lock would have been tough. Not to mention getting paint on the inside.