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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I put together a PSA .300blk 10.5" pistol recently using all PSA parts except for a Rise Armament drop in trigger. Took it out to my buddy's property yesterday to try it out and it was most enjoyable to shoot, very accurate. I did notice when he was shooting, I was standing a few feet behind him at about 5 o'clock, that the ejections were in the 2:30-4 o'clock range most of the time but every so often it would eject one at about 1:30-2 o'clock or 4:30-5 o'clock as one did hit me in the face. There were no malfunctions at all beyond those occasional odd ejections. I noticed today behind the ejection port it is more worn after only 180 rounds through it than my S&W AR after at least 2000 rounds. It's a pistol length gas system but the build kit just had a standard carbine buffer, would this be something a heavier buffer weight would address? Or is it not worth worrying about since there were no malfunctions?
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ITSZCH

IMO yes it needs the ejection time increased. by the looks of the damage, I would suggest trying an H-2 Buffer.
IMO the reason for the irregular ejection patterns at 1:30 to 5 was due to the aggressive nature and speed of the casings being ejected. By bashing into the Upper Receiver Deflector and causing the anodizing damage to the Upper. That should not be happening and if you had been shooting steel case ammo that would make it even worse. And if you have any of the fired casings left send us some pictures of those, especially the Primers. But the only thing that should have been on that deflector should have only had some brass buildup on it! Not chipped anodizing! If you get your problem solved, I can help you cosmetically cover the chipped area up. It will not fix the chip but as stated it will cosmetically cover it up so it is not that noticeable. Just let me know, and they do make Deflector Covers that buffers the impact on the Deflector, But 2:00 to 3:00 is a good pattern.
One last question was you shooting reloads by any chance?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I didn't get any pics of and won't have any way to get to the spent casings any time soon. They were all new Winchester 147 grain FMJ white box ammo, no reloads. I guess I'll look at some H2 options.
 

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I too have a PSA 300 Blk pistol, but mine is 7.5" barrel. 2:30 to 4:00 is within the desired ejection pattern for the AR, but you will get some changes in ejection pattern ever now and then, but I think you'll find this is true for pretty much all AR-15's in general. An occasional one here and there is nothing to fret about, just the nature of the beast.

As for the H2 buffer and the deflector, I've found PSA's anodizing to be a little different than other brands. I'm not sure what they do or how they do it, but theirs seems different somehow (at least on mine). It is anodizing, but it almost looks like some kind of paint or coating instead. Anodizing shouldn't "chip", it should just wear through to bare metal at most.

Either way, changing to an H2 might also require a different spring as well. I tried an H2 in mine just to see the effect and I ended up with feed issues. I think it created a situation of "near" short stroking. Not short enough to totally miss a cartridge, but short enough that it causes issues stripping the next round and chambering it. I did not try anything different at that point as I just wanted to see what effect the H2 had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely replacing the spring along with the buffer. I was going to go with a Geissele Super 42 spring / H2 since I've got a Super 42 / H1 in my 16" .223 wylde and it ejects perfect all day long. I'm glad I did a little reading before pulling the trigger on it though, seems the super 42 spring is a little strong and is known to cause issues specifically with subsonic .300blk rounds in pistol length systems. I did some more digging and landed on the Armaspec Stealth H2 system. From what I read about it, it was specifically called out for reliability in .300blk pistols whether shooting subs or supersonics, suppressed or not. I guess I'll find out when it gets here an I can get over to the range. I don't see me getting a suppressor any time soon even though I want one, but I want to make sure the option is there shoul I get one on down the line.
 

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ITSZHC,

Hydro did mention he had trouble with an H-2 in his 7,5 barrel. But with a 10,5 barrel should stop the stroke issue he spoke of. Because you have a longer burn and dwell time with the 10.5 only a thought. And he is right about that finish. Anodizing will not chip because it impregnates the aluminum. Of course, it can be gouged and get down to the bare aluminum. He also mentioned sometimes you will see a slight variation in ejection patterns, My concern was the frequency of the 5 O'clock and 1:30 ejection pattern and the severe impact on the ejection port area of the Upper Receiver Deflector. Good luck with your issue.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I appreciate the feedback as I am still much much closer to the novice end of the spectrum. Even so, from everything I read beforehand I figured a heavier buffer was going to be needed but I didn't want to drop the money on it until I tried it out. I thought maybe being an all PSA build they paired it up right but now I know there's definitely room for improvement and another $65 isn't a terrible amount to try my luck on. Worst case, it won't perform as desired and I'll look at getting a flatwire pistol spring and an Odin Works adjustable buffer and then try different weights until I find what works best. Of course then I'll have to start looking into what I can build with an H2 buffer 😈
 

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I too have a PSA 300 Blk pistol, but mine is 7.5" barrel. 2:30 to 4:00 is within the desired ejection pattern for the AR, but you will get some changes in ejection pattern ever now and then, but I think you'll find this is true for pretty much all AR-15's in general. An occasional one here and there is nothing to fret about, just the nature of the beast.

As for the H2 buffer and the deflector, I've found PSA's anodizing to be a little different than other brands. I'm not sure what they do or how they do it, but theirs seems different somehow (at least on mine). It is anodizing, but it almost looks like some kind of paint or coating instead. Anodizing shouldn't "chip", it should just wear through to bare metal at most.

Either way, changing to an H2 might also require a different spring as well. I tried an H2 in mine just to see the effect and I ended up with feed issues. I think it created a situation of "near" short stroking. Not short enough to totally miss a cartridge, but short enough that it causes issues stripping the next round and chambering it. I did not try anything different at that point as I just wanted to see what effect the H2 had.
I worked around anodizing for nearly 20 years and it is a very good process for proper applications. Anodizing is NOT a coating. It changes the outer surface for a very small depth (one to two thousands at most) into a very hard surface on the aluminum. It's an electro-chemical process that hardens and, if wanted, does this with various colors as in parts of an AR-15. Just a FWIW.
 

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ITSZHC
Here is where I get my parts from for the LE and Govt. Armorer Schools. Here is some information on Buffers and these are good ones.They are not those cheap aluminum substitutes.
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CAR Buffer
Shop » CAR Buffer
  • CAR Buffer
  • CAR Buffer
  • CAR Buffer

Product Details
G.I. Car Buffer 3 oz
This is a standard Car Buffer. 3 ounce = 85 grams Other weight buffers shown elsewhere.
CAR (Non-Marked) Buffer: 3.0 oz
H Buffer: 3.8 oz
H2 Buffer: 4.6 oz
H3 Buffer: 5.4 oz


M&A Price: $15.00
ShippingUsually Ships 2-3 DaysItem #Car Buffer Q
 

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I worked around anodizing for nearly 20 years and it is a very good process for proper applications. Anodizing is NOT a coating. It changes the outer surface for a very small depth (one to two thousands at most) into a very hard surface on the aluminum. It's an electro-chemical process that hardens and, if wanted, does this with various colors as in parts of an AR-15. Just a FWIW.
Yes, I've anodized parts myself with my own DIY set up. The surface forms oxides (the hard part) and color is created with dyes. RIT fabric dye works, some colors better than others, as the coloring agent, but dyes made specifically for anodizing work best. After dying the part, you boil it in water to "seal it."
 

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Yes, I've anodized parts myself with my own DIY set up. The surface forms oxides (the hard part) and color is created with dyes. RIT fabric dye works, some colors better than others, as the coloring agent, but dyes made specifically for anodizing work best. After dying the part, you boil it in water to "seal it."
You know the process. Sealing it closes the pores. Aluminum oxide is one of the hardest materials there is, right there with diamonds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got over to the range today and the H2 seems perfect. As best I could tell being indoors with a partition right next to me they seemed to be right in the 3-4 o'clock range consistently. I ran 100 each of 147g supersonic and 200g subsonic with no issues at all. I used a paint pen to fill in where it had chipped after the first outing so I'd be able to see if there was any new chipping on the deflector and see none at all. The Armaspec Stealth Recoil System is questionable on the "stealth" part but definitely reduces recoil. I think maybe liberally applying some grease will help make it more quiet.
 
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