Duracoating help please.

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by RustyShackleford101, Sep 5, 2012.

  1. RustyShackleford101

    RustyShackleford101 New Member

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    Ve never duracoated anything but I'm wanting to start doing guns. I'm just looking for some experienced people to inform me on the do's and don'ts. For example, would it be okay to go over say a mag release or would it wreck it. Also some good YouTube links would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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    Follow directions on the can.
    When using the oven in the kitchen, provide the better half a weekend trip.
    Have proper ventilation.
    Prep work is important.
    Do a test piece that you don't mind getting fingerprints on when tempted to touch "see if it is dry".
    Several lights coats are better than one heavy coat.
     

  3. rjd3282

    rjd3282 New Member

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    Are you doing it with a spray can or an airbrush. If you are mixing your own store your extra hardner in the fridge it will keep longer. Buy a gallon can of acetone and dip your parts to degrease. If you are going to use the stainless steel color, prime the bare metal with the white color first. I completely disassemble the gun and have not had problems with mag release buttons.
     
  4. Tenderribbs

    Tenderribbs New Member

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    My best advice is to clean .clean and then clean a little more . No joke anywhere you miss stands out like well you know. A sore thumb. Good luck take your time sue thin costs and you will be dine this was my first ODGreen on my colt22

    image-1976699482.jpg
     
  5. RustyShackleford101

    RustyShackleford101 New Member

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    I'm gonna use an airbrush and a compressor. How long does it take to dry?
     
  6. RustyShackleford101

    RustyShackleford101 New Member

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    That is one sexy gun!
     
  7. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    I believe your supposed to let it dry for Atleast a week
     
  8. RustyShackleford101

    RustyShackleford101 New Member

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    Okay thanks.
     
  9. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    It'll come with a complete set of instructions. You'll be fine. Just make sure you use thin coats as they said.
     
  10. rjd3282

    rjd3282 New Member

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    I usually let things set for a week also. You can touch it after a day but it won't stand up to re-assembly. The more patience you have the better it will turn out.
     
  11. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

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  12. RustyShackleford101

    RustyShackleford101 New Member

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    Thanks guys, you are all very helpful.
     
  13. Montaktical

    Montaktical New Member

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    Im late to this party, but if you havent started yet I may be able to offer some advise. I have coated more than I can count. Prep is key. Sandblast your parts. Clean them thouroughly with acetone once blasted. If you can, parekerize the ferous metals. Once ready, shoot your base color. Keep nice even sweeping coats. t will be dry to the touch in half an hour or so. Put some heat on it to speed things up. I depending on how your stenciling your camo, I would wait several hours between coats. If your sticking shapes on (masking tape, low tack mask, etc) if your using leaves, sticks, etc. and just spraying through em, and they wont really contact the base coat, then just go to town as soon as your brush is clean. Once all parts are coated, wait three days to re assemble. Once assembled, put it away for a couple weeks and dont touch it. That is truly the hardest part. Once plenty of time has passed, You may clean, lube, and sight it in, and place it back in service. Onelast thing, If possible, bake all parts after coating. If not, once again dont worry about it. Thats it. Hope this helps. Any questions just hit me up on my website,

    www.montaktical.com
     
  14. DuraCoater

    DuraCoater New Member

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    I use a $20 B&D toaster oven for baking smaller parts afterwards. Fits on my workbench.

    Good investment. :)