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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to duracoat the slide on my Glock 20. I have seen quite a few videos on the in's and out's of getting the best quality from the duracoat. I am just looking for any other advice from anyone that has already completed a duracoat project.
 

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I hear that a lot of people prefer ceracoat to duracoat, I am considering doing my dads Mossberg 500, so I'm looking forward to any advice also.
 

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I used Duracoat on a shotgun project a year or so ago. The finished product exceeded my expectations. Its a woodlands camo finish that has been durable and incredibly scratch resistant. The only advice I could offer would be prepared to let the Duracoat cure for the entire 3-4 weeks before installing the slide back on the frame and of course no shooting it during that time period as well.
 

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what is the opinion on duracoating a gun which has previously had a little rust started on it? Could one steel woll a small rust spot off then duracoat it or would that spot continue to fester under the duracoat and reapper? I have considered doing my 870 express but it has some previous rust spots from the finish getting scratched up while riding in boats duck hunting
 

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I've been doing a little research and it looks like Brownells Aluma-Hyde may be a good alternative if you don't want to spend a lot.
 

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Check the cure process. Duracoat requires an oven, Aluma-hyde is (IIRC) air cured.

Patience is required for both. Good preparation is required. Apply in light coats. If you get a run, wait until it is cured to try and fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
danf_fl said:
Check the cure process. Duracoat requires an oven, Aluma-hyde is (IIRC) air cured.
Duracoat makes a shake and spray kit that does not require an oven to cure. Aluma-Hyde is a little bit cheaper than Duracoat, but they both do a great job from what I have seen.
 

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bigrock44 said:
Duracoat makes a shake and spray kit that does not require an oven to cure. Aluma-Hyde is a little bit cheaper than Duracoat, but they both do a great job from what I have seen.
Krylon makes a line of spray's designed for camo colors
 

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My buddy has a benelli shotgun he wants me to duracoat for him. Only thing I'm worried about is that the receiver is made of that polymer type plastic. Will that mess the paint job up or is it ok to paint over it? I just heard you have to bake the final product in the oven to heat treat it and I'm sure he wouldn't like it if I melted his gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
opsshadowninja said:
My buddy has a benelli shotgun he wants me to duracoat for him. Only thing I'm worried about is that the receiver is made of that polymer type plastic. Will that mess the paint job up or is it ok to paint over it? I just heard you have to bake the final product in the oven to heat treat it and I'm sure he wouldn't like it if I melted his gun.
If you are going to use the shake and spray kit that they now offer. You will not have to even bake the paint after you finish spraying it. You will have to use a mild sandpaper to Rough up the polymer surface before you begin to paint, so that it will adhere to the surface a lot better.
 

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600 grit sandpaper and degrease thoughly before shooting the duracoat. The only oven i' ve ever needed was a 100 watt bulb and an old foam cooler for about 12 hrs. I've done over a hundred guns this way at the shop. Let sit for at least a week after final color(camo schemes) and you will need a sand blaster to remove it. Hope this helps:)

Ps if you are planning on doing a few buy an airbrush with a compresser. Harbor freight sold mine for $50 on sale. Makes the process much simpler...
 
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