Duracoat project

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by bigrock44, Dec 31, 2012.

  1. bigrock44

    bigrock44 New Member

    134
    0
    0
    I am about to duracoat the slide on my Glock 20. I have seen quite a few videos on the in's and out's of getting the best quality from the duracoat. I am just looking for any other advice from anyone that has already completed a duracoat project.
     
  2. sputnik1988

    sputnik1988 Active Member

    2,883
    2
    38
    I hear that a lot of people prefer ceracoat to duracoat, I am considering doing my dads Mossberg 500, so I'm looking forward to any advice also.
     

  3. Wrecked

    Wrecked New Member

    123
    0
    0
    I used Duracoat on a shotgun project a year or so ago. The finished product exceeded my expectations. Its a woodlands camo finish that has been durable and incredibly scratch resistant. The only advice I could offer would be prepared to let the Duracoat cure for the entire 3-4 weeks before installing the slide back on the frame and of course no shooting it during that time period as well.
     
  4. blucoondawg

    blucoondawg New Member

    1,178
    0
    0
    what is the opinion on duracoating a gun which has previously had a little rust started on it? Could one steel woll a small rust spot off then duracoat it or would that spot continue to fester under the duracoat and reapper? I have considered doing my 870 express but it has some previous rust spots from the finish getting scratched up while riding in boats duck hunting
     
  5. sputnik1988

    sputnik1988 Active Member

    2,883
    2
    38
    I've been doing a little research and it looks like Brownells Aluma-Hyde may be a good alternative if you don't want to spend a lot.
     
  6. danf_fl

    danf_fl Retired Supporter

    12,361
    34
    48
    Check the cure process. Duracoat requires an oven, Aluma-hyde is (IIRC) air cured.

    Patience is required for both. Good preparation is required. Apply in light coats. If you get a run, wait until it is cured to try and fix it.
     
  7. bigrock44

    bigrock44 New Member

    134
    0
    0
    Duracoat makes a shake and spray kit that does not require an oven to cure. Aluma-Hyde is a little bit cheaper than Duracoat, but they both do a great job from what I have seen.
     
  8. FullautoUSA

    FullautoUSA Welcoming Committee/ Resident Pellet Gunner Lifetime Supporter

    2,627
    1
    0
    Krylon makes a line of spray's designed for camo colors
     
  9. opsshadowninja

    opsshadowninja New Member

    46
    0
    0
    My buddy has a benelli shotgun he wants me to duracoat for him. Only thing I'm worried about is that the receiver is made of that polymer type plastic. Will that mess the paint job up or is it ok to paint over it? I just heard you have to bake the final product in the oven to heat treat it and I'm sure he wouldn't like it if I melted his gun.
     
  10. bigrock44

    bigrock44 New Member

    134
    0
    0
    If you are going to use the shake and spray kit that they now offer. You will not have to even bake the paint after you finish spraying it. You will have to use a mild sandpaper to Rough up the polymer surface before you begin to paint, so that it will adhere to the surface a lot better.
     
  11. dwmiller

    dwmiller Well-Known Member

    3,497
    167
    63
    600 grit sandpaper and degrease thoughly before shooting the duracoat. The only oven i' ve ever needed was a 100 watt bulb and an old foam cooler for about 12 hrs. I've done over a hundred guns this way at the shop. Let sit for at least a week after final color(camo schemes) and you will need a sand blaster to remove it. Hope this helps:)

    Ps if you are planning on doing a few buy an airbrush with a compresser. Harbor freight sold mine for $50 on sale. Makes the process much simpler...
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2013