Duracoat for colorfill???

Discussion in 'Engraving & Refinishing' started by ZeusEcho, Jul 24, 2012.

  1. ZeusEcho

    ZeusEcho Member Lifetime Supporter

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    I've been researching different materials people use to do color fill and Testors model paint comes up allot but I haveny't seen anyone recommend Duracoat. Seems like it would be a more durable option.

    Any reasons not to use Duracoat for colorfill?
     
  2. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    I believe duracoat is more of an epoxy than a paint. Don't think it will give you the required forgiveness to wipe excess off.
     

  3. ZeusEcho

    ZeusEcho Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Yeah I was thinking that might be a problem but the dry time is similar to paint ang the full cure cure time is days/weeks so I think if you wipe it soon enough it shouldn't be an issue.

    Anyone used it?
     
  4. TheOldMan

    TheOldMan New Member

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    I've used DuraCoat extensively and it does not come off very well. It flash cures very quickly and starts to set well within an hour. Paint is much more forgiving and can be stripped off anytime using chemicals. DuraCoat, however, would require bead blasting or heavy sanding to remove.
     
  5. St8LineGunsmith

    St8LineGunsmith New Member

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    color fill with Testors or finger nail polish make sure it is acetone free.
     
  6. russ

    russ New Member

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    I've had good luck using these paint markers for filling the marking on my AR's:
    http://www.diagraphmsp.com/inventoryd.asp?item_no=SCOLLECT28&CatId={2EE802DA-BEEB-4973-9693-BD9EA795D57E}
    http://www.pentel.com/store/white-markers-2
    Two quick coats and then wipe off with a lint-free towel and some brake clean.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2012
  7. St8LineGunsmith

    St8LineGunsmith New Member

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    here is what I use to do paint fill projects with professional results and no clean up.
    needle tip bottle

    magnifying glasses

    paint

    thinner
    you are likely to find all these items at Wal Mart to save on shipping charges.
    add a few drops of thinner to the paint you intend to use to thin it down then reapply the lid and shake for a few seconds then pour the entire contents into the bottle add a few more drops to make sure the paint will flow good then just swirl it around a few seconds so the thinner will blend into the paint. you are then ready to paint dont squeeze too hard:D

    when you finish squeeze the remaining paint back into the Testors bottle then pour about a half cap full of thinner into the squeeze bottle and shake well then empty by squeezing the thinner through the needle then repeat the process once more to remove the remaining paint residue from the bottle and inside of needle by squeezing the thinner through the needle, repeat the process again if necessary.
    you can then re use the bottle for another color. you will always need to remove the paint when not in use to keep the paint from skinning over and cloging the needle.
    if you keep the bottles and needle clean they will last a very long time
    you will need to use the Testors acrylic paint thinner with the Testors acrylic paint to insure not to damage the guns finish but you can use another type of paint thinner for clean up which I recommend since the testors thinner is a bit on the pricey side for such small bottles. do not use Lacquer thinner because it can melt the bottles. also you might want to consider buying additonal bottles if you plan to use multiple colors this way you can prep the paints at the same time that way you are not having to do a lot of clean up when switching colors.
    my method is probably a little more expensive but I guarantee high quality results.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2012
  8. billt

    billt New Member

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    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012
  9. mountainman13

    mountainman13 New Member

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    That seems pretty good. Have you tried it? I wonder how it holds up to heat and cleaning.
     
  10. billt

    billt New Member

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    I did the lettering on my S&W Model 29 several years back. I did the rollmark on the barrel in white. It worked very well. It works easier if you're doing it on a high polished smooth surface, as opposed to a Parkerized one. But that holds true with any type of fill engraving.

    Mine held up through several years of cleaning and shooting. Finally it started to yellow, most likely from oil and cleaning. I redid it with a product called Bonanza Silver. It's a little more involved process, but I like the way it turned out. They also have it in gold as well. Again, it works best on the higher polished surfaces. Be advised this is a much more permanent system. The nice thing about the China Markers is if after time you don't like it, you can remove it quite easily with alcohol and a stiff bristled tooth brush.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/720160/forster-gold-inlay-filling-kit