DIY finishes

Discussion in 'DIY Projects' started by NGIB, Feb 15, 2011.

  1. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    I've seen some of the work done by folks here so I'm wondering about the path I should take. I may be coming into an alloy framed Kimber that is "finish challenged" to say the least. Now I could pack it up and send it to CCR; however, is there a DIY finish that's as tough & durable?

    I've heard that Gunkote is good but I really have zero experience in this area. Any tips from y'all is appreciated - especially in how much prep work is required. Do I need to strip the slide & frame to bare metal or beadblast? Can the same finish be used on the alloy frame and steel slide?
     
  2. Squirrel_Slayer

    Squirrel_Slayer New Member

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    Have you considered checking out the Durakoat website? I don't have any answers to your specific questions in regards prep, other than I am alost positive you are not going to have to strip off the old finish before you put on the new one. My father has applied some of the Durakoat to a couple of his AR's and claims it is simple and so far it has been tough as nails.
     

  3. lonyaeger

    lonyaeger New Member

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    I've done a couple DuraCoat jobs, one on my AR, on all the metal parts. The finish has not been affected at all by the barrel heating up, which was my first concern.

    I bought the little kits that come with a sprayer and a little c02 bottle. They suck. If you have a compressor, Dave, that would be the way to go.

    Other than the gas issue, I'm really happy with the DuraCoat products. But as far as friction parts go, like slide on frame in a pistol, I can't speak to that.
     
  4. CA357

    CA357 New Member Supporter

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    I had a revolver done in Duracoat and it didn't hold up. The finish was done by a friend in the autobody business and he prepped it well. I was surprised it didn't last.

    I've used Brownell's Aluma Hyde II several times and have been happy with it.

    If you want to keep the cost down, CCR is doing a "Parkerize Plus" finish that looks pretty good. They are good folks and they do outstanding work.
     
  5. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    I have not used Duracoat, but hear good things.

    I have used the various KG Products coatings, and they are great. They make the GunKote for Brownells. I have a lot of experience with the AH2, GunKote, and Teflon from Brownells. I've probably done 200 guns, so far.

    Blasting the alloy frame will remove the surface hard coat anodizing. I would just strip it down, de-grease it and go with AH2. It will wear off from the rails, but you won't see it.

    Baking the alloy at 300f for an hour might be a bit much, but you could do the Gun Kote. It wears very well. And it is ready to use within a few minutes of coming out of the oven.

    AH2 needs a long time to cure. A couple of days before you handle it. A couple of weeks before you use it. Several months before it turns to armor plate.
     
  6. spittinfire

    spittinfire New Member Supporter

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    I'm being tempted by home anadizing.....if I decide to go thru with it I'll post pics.
     
  7. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    Cool. How do you do home anodizing?
     
  8. silentghost

    silentghost New Member

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    Hey!!! If you hurt her feelings she won't love you anymore!!!!
     
  9. NGIB

    NGIB New Member

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    It has character!
     
  10. silentghost

    silentghost New Member

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    And it served me well! Maybe we can fool around with the Para I have, or that other mil spec of yours and then we can start refinishing guns in this area :)
     
  11. d-r

    d-r New Member

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    Well, if it is a carbon frame, I have always been partial to hot rust blueing. Essentially, get some Birchwood Casey hot rust blue solution, completely strip the frame (including bushings), give it a good degrease and blast, and you are ready to start.

    Apply the compound evenly (I use a rag), and once covered, let it sit out overnight in at least 70 degree temps. Humidity helps. Don't be alarmed, next morning when you see it completely rusted. This is normal, and desireable. Using some moist scotch brite, *gently* go over the whole thing- the goal is to break a little of the surface loose, not remove it. Then, after boiling up a pot of water big enough to dunk the frame in, dunk it. I like to use distilled water so there are no extra salts in there. The frame should go from red to black. You can then apply a second, third, fourth or n+1 layer, using the same method. After the last boil, seal the finish with wax or oil. Turns out really nice, and is quite durable, unlike conventional blue. Hope this helps!

    D-R
     
  12. M14sRock

    M14sRock New Member

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    Cool beans. But I gotta find something to blue now. :eek:
     
  13. 7.62 Man

    7.62 Man New Member

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    I have used auto engine paint with good results.
    It is a very tough durable heat & chemical resistant finish.
    On a test piece I scrubed it with a steel wool pad soaked with acetone & the finish stayed put.
    Here is my AMD65 with this finish on it.
    [​IMG]
    It is called VHT Engine Enamel it comes in many colors, flats to glosses.
    VHT Engine Enamelâ„¢
     
  14. Werminator

    Werminator Member

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    I would not encourage home annodizing... Anno is not the most durable finish and the process requires a lot of prep and the job itself is not super easy... I have never annod a gun but in mmy paintball days I have ruined many an anno job...
     
  15. Montaktical

    Montaktical New Member

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    No Problems with Duracoat

    I have done a bunch of work with duracoat. I have heard both great and horrible things about it. The key is in the prep work. I took two AR Mags and painted both of them in MARPAT Camo. Mag 1 I sandblasted, and then cleaned with Acetone. Mag 2 I cleaned with Acetone. Mag 1 turned out great and a cant get the stuff off. Mag 2's coating was peeling off with my stencils. (Fail) I cant speak about the DIY kits they sell as I use a complete airbursh setup. Feel free to email me with any questions. Glad to help.

    Montaktical MTAK Duracoat
     
  16. CaptRickHiott

    CaptRickHiott New Member

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    I have done quite a few guns for a buddy of mine with a product from Dura-Cote thats called "Dura-Heat"

    We took the gun apart and blasted it, cleaned it with a strong soap and water then sprayed two coats of D/Heat.
    This is a great product! The guns were sprayed about three years ago and has had no problems with the finish. He shoots the hell out of them too....

    [​IMG]